The Bogan

I've got trackmaster, I set it up at Wakie and it seemed fine, I did forget to start it though and the car dropped oil and I dropped my show bags, I will give it a good run on the 19 may at Wakie and compare the results to NATSOFT and see how close it is. If I remember to start it that is...

Thanks Duncan.

When I started my apprenticeship in 1981 I was on $65 a week. I still had enough money to save for my 1st car, a Mini, it was awesome.

I cannot see why not, give ones of the organisers a ring.

And the correct weight and power figures are ?

Check the build dates mate.

Got my ballot paper in the mail for the ARDC, as they rule the world in regards to Eastern Creek Im not sure on who is best to vote for, any tips or names of who would be the best choice would be most appreciated. The choices are; Neil Turner Terry Conroy Andrew Leithhead Paul Dortkamp Christian Reeves Peter Boylan Im not wanting to start a "I hate this guy" thread, so only positive feedback please. My idea on this is I dont know any of these people, BUT, if you feel that someone you know has the right minerals and will be good for "our" sport/hobbie then send me a PM with the reasons why. I will be filtering the replys by only taking note from those of you that are, how would you say, "are well know to the Motorsport thread". Thanks for any input that comes in, I feel that a uneducated vote is as bad if not worse than not voting at all. Thanks, Mark.

Dont make Mark sad !!!!!!!

Hope to see some of you there. http://www.sscc.org.au/site/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/INTERCLUB-R2-Supp-Regs.pdf http://www.sscc.org.au/site/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/INTERCLUB-R2-Entry-Form.pdf

ACK

And then get a RB30 bottom end.

I ended up getting a adjustable oil pressure and a oil temp warning light, ended up about $25 each. Final price including delivery for 2 warning lights was $86.

I wasn't arguing, but I don't think safety should be considered somewhere you look at to save money. What gets me ranting is I see so many cars with huge money spent on them but they cannot find the funds for quality tyres, I am not saying buy the best tyres on the market, I'm saying buy the best tyres on the market that you can afford.

100% disagree, on the track if you slide you usually just slide of the track, on the street you slide into gutters/people/cars/poles. You can drive as safely as you like but when a kid runs out on the road infront of you, or a car losses it in front of you and you do some hard evasive driving you need grip, it will be then, when you are in the middle of a big slide straight at a telegraph pole that you will wish you spent that little bit extra on tyres. It more of a case of how much is your life worth, ifs its not worth much buy some tyres that will last along time, but, if you feel your life is worth more than a set of sub standard tyres buy some that will actually give you some grip when you need it. How many people get killed on the race track where they are going ten tenths compared to how many people die every day on the road going to work ?, driving on the road is the most dangerous thing most people do, the least you can do is ensure that the only thing that is in contact with the road and stopping you from having a accident is best you can afford. The wreckers are full of nice cars with long lasting tyres. Is your life worth less than the price of a 1 coffee per day?

I remember reading that the 27mm is hollow and has the same strenght as the 24mm, ring Whiteline and ask...

I would always chose grip over longevity, tyres are the best performance/safety upgrade you can do. The way I look at it is if the tyres last at least a year they are worth the money, no point in having a high performance car with sub standard tyres, and at around $800 a set fitted its a cheap performance upgrade, hell I spend more than that on buying 1 coffee every day during the year.

Thankyou.

http://www.wholesalesuspension.com.au/ http://www.heasmans....site3/main.html If your is Sydney these places can help you out, be aware that most Jap suspension will be pretty firm to hard, you need to take this into concideration if your doing alot of street driving, Im running some bilstiens with king springs which are fine for the street and OK for the occasional track day. I have adjustable whiteline bars which I find are very good. I also have a HICAS lock bar which was needed because the HICAS had a mind of its own mid corner.

The Hankook Ventus Rs3 are 140 wear rating, and they stick like shit to a blanket.

I forgot my password, I then got a new password from "forgot password" linky, now I would like to change it to something that I can remember. Ive had a good search around but couldnt find anything. Thanks for your help. Please dont throw a spanner at me. Mark.

You missed my point though about the DYNO, it doesnt matter if you have 350kw or 355kw at peak rpm on a dyno (which is only a tuning tool), its the initial acceleration, from standstill, a efficient motor with less power will initially outperform a less efficiant one with more power, and when we are talking about a only a few kw its not enough to makeup for the weaker performace down low. Im sure a dyno can be set up so that you can get on it from idle and go through the gears to access the acceleration charicteristics, Im far from a expert on this. Sorry if Im confusing things, I know what Im meaning to say, COLD AIR GOOD, HOT AIR BAD, LOL.

Couldn't find any on Jegs, will be having a good look around though, but even with the extra delivery they are still well cheaper than buying from Australia.

The exposed pod Vs enclosed pod/airbox is the problem, though on the dyno when a fan is blowing/forcing air into the radiator/air intake is not a accurate test on the road test. The problem with a exposed pod is when stationary or at low speeds, not enough air is being forced into the engine bay to displace the hot air created by the radiant heat from the motor. With a airbox or proper enclosed pod with a CAI the air will be at a much lower temperature than the exposed pod, cooler air is more dense which we all know is what you need. A exposed pod will sound like its better due to the louder induction noise but will be less efficient until enough speed is reached to displace to hot air at the filter under the bonnet, which is fine when your traveling at high speeds but you pay for it at lower speeds. The theory behind the pod is you have a greater surface area which in turn helps it flow, but sucking in hot air will negate any benefit until high speed is reached, even then the air still won't be as cold as a enclosed filter with CAI. For a street car or drag car when you want the coldest air possible from 0kpm to have the most response a exposed pod under the bonnet will reduce the efficiency of the motor. Go for a drive and then open the bonnet and touch where the filter is, that's the temp of the air going in. do the same with a enclosed one and you will notice a huge difference in temperature. Its simple physics. But as always simple heckticness seems to beat simple physics.

How much oil is out there to burn though, dont get me wrong, burning fuel (petrol) in a motor is fun, but, due to it taking a couple of million years for oil to be made by our mother earth it will sooner or later run out, as it gets more scarce the price will increase. And I dont think there is enough fertile land to keep up with food and the fuel (E85) consumption. Any way, in under 4 billion years the world will get consumed by the sun. And dont even get me started on how the earth recycles itself and that all the land you see now will be recycled by subduction in half a billion years. How good is Geology..

Im looking at getting some of these for the car, has anyone used them, which ones, and do or dont you need aftermarket gauges or are they free standing (if you know what I mean) http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/Longacre-Racing-Products/Product-Line/Longacre-Gagelites-Warning-Light-Kits/?autoview=SKU Thanks for your help and information, Mark.