The Bogan

Im happy with the finish seeing though it was me, my mate and a bottle of Jim Beam, it was a bit fiddley in places but easy over all.

http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_2162/article.html

Best spot to vent heat is just behind the radiator, there is a negative pressure area there, vents that are midway or to the rear are in a positive pressure area, hence when driving air will be forced into the engine bay causing the air pressure in there to rise, which inturn will lower the efficiency of your radiator and intercooler as its trying to push the air into a high pressure void. I'll look for a link that explains it better than me.

Just ordered some 3M CA-421 carbon fibre wrap from SUNSCREEN 9439 5999 in Artarmon, Sydney, cost me happy trade price, they say for any heavy curves use a primer, you can get primer from supercheap paint section, its a clear spray on primer. I'll post up results in a week or two. Bulk buy of 5mtrs works out at about $85 a meter plus postage. It's all in the prep they said, prep it right and you will have no problems in it sticking.

To much electronics and technology for their own good, when its all new and shiny its awesome, but throw 20 yrs at them and it becomes a nightmare for the average Joe to deal with, and everyone boosting and tracking them don't help either, they have had a good 20 yrs, as with all newer post 80s cars, they are not made to last. If you had to have one that Red GTR would be good because if you rebuilt one it would easily cost that much and more to rebuild one. And if my lotto numbers come up like they are meant to I'll buy that red one soon, LOL. Anyone know what the manufacturer thought the life expediency on these modern cars would be.

I went looking a while ago, came away disheartened, the money people are asking for a 20 yr old car is stupid, all I looked at were JDM imports and 90% of them were pretty tired, some had OK bodies but motors were tired and interiors were worn and broken, others had newish motors but the bodys were rusty and on one occasion bent that bad you cold see it crab down the road, most were owned by young blokes and everyone of them had mods, some good some very bad, one guy thought it was a good selling point to do 8000k launches when he took me for a test ride. The only one I liked was a white one, fairly standard, looked good underneath, engine bay you could eat off which was owned by a older guy who was the first Aust owner, 180,000k and no service history, he also wanted 25k for it, I tried low balling him for a while but that didnt work, last I saw it was still for sale, that was at least a year ago. Good luck and I hope you find a good one, you may be best importing one from a good importer from somewhere in J that isnt radioactive or uses salt on the road during winter. I also like how most of these cars have well under 100k on the clock but have been rebuilt/resprayed and scraggy interiours.

Ive just back from a nice little drive to Batemans Bays and back today, long way there and short way home, bloody cold on the top of the range, thought my car was broked for a minute, I looked down at my temp gauge and it was hardly registering, going down the mountain doing 100 kph at 5 deg outside temp will do that, traffic wasnt bad either, a little bit of it on the way down but it was cold and wet and I was driving in the clouds, awesome, but coming back up through the twities was great, only traffic I hit was just prior to a overtaking lane. One bad point was a couple of idiot drivers using the whole road, i.e crossing double lines on bends, and not just a little bit either, one guy was a half way over the other side of the road on every corner when I came up behind him, he was crap, I blew by him on a straight and left him to cause accidents without me around to witness the mess. Found a nice place to stay for a few days in early Jan too, I was lucky because everywhere else was booked out, 2 bd rm apartment for $190 a night, bargain. Thinking of doing the Snowy Mountains again sometime over the next month too, 2 day trip, will be fun.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/384618-volk-racing-rims-and-6-semi-slicks/page__gopid__6137315#entry6137315 Interested in swaps maybe ?

rim width is 253, distance from hub face to inside lip is 148. So, 1/2 rim width of 126.5 - 148 = +21.5offset I used Google for the calcs, they may not be right, if you like them try them on.

And how much is the new Nissan RWD psydo sports car ?, 60 +f or the 350 Z base model, its the only other RWD 2 door sporty car available for that money. Again, until you prove my theory wrong, LOL.

What rim width mate. Mark

Good luck with that, if DBA rotors are good enough for alot of race teams then there good enough for me, my DBA 4000s have been thrashed for 3 yrs now and are still good. Shop smart, Shop S Mart

Major service, then spend 6 months working ot what you want the car for i.e streeter/drags/track before you waste you money on mods that are useless or will need to be upgraded again, work out how much power you want and where you want that power. First mod though would be upgrade brakes, best tyres yo can afford, and maybe some sway bars, theres $2000 to start with. Remember that you lose most of (90%) the money you put into it when its time to sell it, food for thought.

Car looks good to me, and as for boxer motors Porsche seem to do well with them, Subaru seem to go like the blazes with some poundage in them to, LOL at the haters, RWD to, awesome. RWDFTMFW. Again, LOL at the haters.

God said "its about 100mm from the face that bolts to the disc hat to the outside lip", he would have been more helpful but said I've been a "bad boy" and that's all the info he will give me. They are 2 piece rims. I got the wheels from Peter at ADVAN performance a couple of years ago, they were on his GRACER car at Superlap 2009. Hope that helps.

I picked 3 to 65, for the street you want early responce I feel, mine isnt coming on till 4.5 which is fine on the track were you can keep it on song but for the street mine isnt ideal, a stock SS with get me of the line and unlike the track on the street I cannot then blow by him when I hit 3rd, unless your a knob like the young blokes around here who think the road is their own private race track. No offence Im just adding a little vent.

4 x Volk Racing rims with all the plates and center caps, 17 x 9 with 4 x Dunlop Formula R DO1J 265/40R 17 and 2 x Kumho V70A 235/40R 17. Still one or two track days left in the tyres, they have been stored indoors and had some grip put on them prior to my last outing, only used on the car at track days. The offset is god knows, they fit under my GTS-T with rolled guards and some camber, you need at least -2 deg on the back and front to get inside the guards of a R33 GTS-T. Will swap for MINT 17 x 8 Nissan wheels i.e 350Z or simular, maybe even R32 GTR rims (Im trying to keep it looking standardish) Or $650 Pick up and/or inspect in Sydney.

I'm in for next year for sure.

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_1370/article.html

Use the stock CAI, how much power you making ? You only need to get a quality filter if your not making big power, you can modify the internal of the stock box to make it flow better to, I'll try and dig up a feature on it.

Buy the best tyres you can afford, they are the only thing in contact with the road, I would rather spend more money on quality tyres than try and save money by buying pov spec. And as long as your not running stupid camber/alignment settings they will last a while anyway. Shop smart, shop S Mart.

I'm not a fan of slipping the clutch to much, you can cook the clutch and hot spot the fly wheel, I would be more inclined to just get a good take off with minimal clutch slipping and low rpm ensuring the car is not laboring. It may be usefully to get him to find the friction point buy releasing the clutch pedal slowly with the hand brake on but the locking device depressed, let him feel the point when the engine speed reduces to show there is slight loading then gradually release the hand brake and with a slight increase in engine rpm release the clutch fully and move off.

I've taught heaps of people on manuals for their Ls, you really need a large open area to start them off in, a few witches hats or boxs, first and second gear stuff, lots off reversing and emergency stops, then move into a closed of area or a low traffic area. I find it good to have them do some reading on basic mechanics so the understand what their actions are actually doing, at work we get them to service the vehicles and go over every nut and bolt, cable and wire. When on the road we also get them to tell us what they are doing when driving, i.e Course; correct position on the road to negotiate the turn/stop ect Mirrors and signals; looking for others, signal intentions Speed; correct road speed to corner safely Gears and mirrors; correct gear and road speed for that gear, look for others Evasive action; stopping, cornering, obstacles Acceleration; regard road surface and traffic conditions And a lot off emergency braking on a wet and dry road, tell them that you are going to get them to do a emergency stop by yelling, stop stop stop, get them up to about 50 and the stop them, make sure they don't lock the brakes, if it doesn't have ABS get them to pump the pedal to avoid lock up. Also skids, I kid you not , in a safe area where there is no one around or nothing to hit get them to do figure 8s or dirt or grass so they work out understeer, oversteer,counter steering, only if safe to do so, private land is good as the police will more than likely not be impressed. Have fun and be safe.

260DET, we need everyone in every sort of car at these events, the thing is to keep the price down we need everyone, if I could afford to have a "race car" I would and I think I would still do sprints as all I'm after is a blast around the track with my times the only thing I would be competing against, I don't think I have the skill or inclination to rub paint. Common sense and following some rules is all that is needed for everyone to have a super happy fun slide time, I've seen some dangerous stuff which could have been avoided in the short time I've been playing this game, which will and does scare people away from attending these events, which in the long run will damage the sport, in my humble and mostly uneducated opinion. Mark "all the gear with no idea"Robbo

But I wanna be a seagull and eat chupps.