wht510

NOTE: Half cut was regarding the motor only. An R32 RB20DET skyline with genuine 80K on the clock was chopped in half in japan, and the motor/gearbox front half of the chassis and all the good bits was shipped over to Australia. My old NICS motor was taken out and this motor was fitted to my HR31. Loom was spliced into the original (done by electronics engineer, so it is extremely neat and tidy and EVERYTHING works.) This R32 motor has never been modded, other than the MINES computer and new parts to make the engine reliable (ie water pump and timing belt etc.) Any questions about what was done, send me a PM. Price is still negotiable. Still interested in swapping for a Series II C34 Stagea (with cash in your direction pending condition of your car)

Meh, I was interested, but not now. I don't even care if it got sold for $6K on the knocker. Anyone who asks all the forums what the car is worth, and when told it's about $5k (classic skylines/skylines Aus/Ozdat, maybe more), and then thinks the price is going to be $10.5K due to a small minority who probably own one and want the price to go up so they can sell theirs? Forget it. He can keep it. I'll stick to trying to sell my 'reasonably priced' but willing to NEGOTIATE HR31.

His in depth knowledge of the EPA was due to being drawn over the hot coals.

"Ecu Controlled". You said it yourself. Except for the fact that one is customer installable, and one is factory. Alright. I've had enough.

HAha... Misunderstanding! I'm pretty sure the McLaren F1 supercar uses inconel. I'm also fairly certain that Porsche used inconel on some of their more exotic cars such as the Carrera GT. Mercedes also used inconel on their SLR. Not sure about Ferrari's Enzo.. etc. etc. I'm not sure what super cars you are referring to? If you are referring to the current breed of V8 "supercar" dinosaurs, I'll take your word for it, but I don't really classify them as "super cars"....

Ash, i've been in some of Europes finest (a couple of recent Ferraris and late porsches and a couple of Audi's) and none of them had buttons on the dash. Care to elaborate on which models?

I'm 30. A young punk is one of those 18 year olds that has just got their license and can pick up those tidy 16 year olds that you see walking on the side of the road that you don't know how old they are, but probably know you are too old to <ahem>. we'll leave it at that. A mate (yes another old fart about my age ) has a Varex on his 1600, and reckons it works pretty well. When it's turned to quiet he gets around 85 or 86db, but the car is gutless, supposedly due to the small restriction the gasses have to pass through. I'd rather have an exhaust that is legal, you don't have to switch on/off and still gives good power and sound. But that's just me. My 1600 was 99db at the first engineers test. I couldn't stand the pain in my ears. (no sound deadener, no rear seat, no carpet) For the engineers I had to get it below 96db (pre ADR rules or what ever the hell it was). It's now currently sitting on a legal 93db with the same horsepower as previously tested. I would like it quieter though. Yeah, i guess i'm getting old

It's not really a bullshit law considering Europe's finest come with valve controlled exhausts. Their exhausts are ECU controlled and conform to the European exhaust emissions regulations (sound and particulate/gas emissions) The Varex system is cabin controlled, so all the young punks who want to make noise can and will.

D) The same people don't bid because they were expecting a lower price to win. They obviously didn't want to go any higher, so perhaps a new bunch of people will now bid

Relisted again

Yup you have seen me at Dr Drift. I do own a white Datsun 1600 The only problem I see with your setup is the complexity. For something that needs to be ultra reliable in cooling the car, you don't want to make the cooling too complex. Unless you are buying something or you are an electronics wizz, then go for it... There is a MoTeC PDM I think it's called which could possibly do all of this and more. I recommend if you are going to do all of this, go for a brand name system and do it!

Just to add my 2 cents. In my car (datsun 1600 with an SR20DET and a 12" thermo fan with a BMW 7 series radiator), the thermo fan is set to trigger when the water temperature is 92deg C. I don't run an viscous clutch engine fan. The temperature probe for the ECU is in the engine block. You would be primarily interested in the coolant temperature. Like previously said, when a car is driving either under full throttle or partial, the only thing the fan/thermostat or ECU is interested in for keeping the car cool is the coolant temperature. IMHO, the viscous fan uses the water temperature (by the time the thermostat opens) to maintain the temperature. Supposedly this should be around 80 something (depending on the clutch) where full engagement is. I would check the following: What temperature the thermostat is opening? It sounds like yours is open all the time, which I think it shouldn't be. This might explain why the fan is on all the time. Have you replaced the viscous centre with another? Don't replace the mechanical fan with thermos yet until you have found out whether another problem is causing things to get hot or open the thermostat. On my RB20DET'd HR31, the old viscous fan used to lock up and sound like a leaf blower. I replaced the viscous fan with a newer one, and it was fine. In my case it was the viscous centre.

closed @ 6100

You know, I agree with this. The amount of people who advertise "body OK no dings/dints etc. and when you see the car in person it's stuffed really gets me down.

So your one of the bidders right -HAhahahahah...

Another way of making tube to your specifications is to roll a sheet into a tube. It only works for narrow sections (as rolling long tubes is a pain), but you can use a rolling machine similar to what the panel beaters use. I did find that getting 3" tube or 2.5" tube in titanium is a pain. Getting sheet is easy, and all you do is cut the sections you require, roll them into diameter, and weld the ends, then weld the sections together to get your required lobster design. LOTS OF WORK...

It largely depends on what you can get. In Melbourne I couldn't find anything. From memory a company called Austral Wright metals used to have something, but I don't think they do any more. Most of the time you have to import it. Good luck in finding a dealer. I've lost all my contacts Perhaps try ebay: stores.shop.ebay.com.au › eBay Stores › TITANIUM JOE or similar... Grade 5 (Ti6Al4V) is one good grade, but pretty expensive. Grade 18 (Ti3Al2.5V) is a good one for exhausts as it has palladium alloyed into the titanium alloy which increases corrosion resistance. But we really are splitting hairs. The best corrosion resistance is stainless though. But can't compete with the lightness of Ti. Basically as I said before, any titanium alloy is good as long as you can get it as they all share very good corrosion resistance with a light weight. Unfortunately trying to find someone who can mandrel bend Titanium is non existent. That's why everyone has to do lobster cut/welds. I did ask alloy bull bar manufacturers, but they said they wouldn't look at it due to the strength of Ti compared to Al, even if it was annealed! Another alloy which is excellent for exhaust headers (ie extractors) particularly for turbo applications is the super alloy "InConel". Now this is better than titanium as it has a higher heat resistance, and therefore is harder to weld. It's used exclusively for super cars and formula 1 and other high end race applications where the engineers have an unlimited budget. But you'd have to buy a couple of tonnes (or something like that), and auction off one of your kidneys at the same time for the funds. I'd only use that for headers though. Not full exhaust systems.

The main areas are: chassis sills and doors and along the sides of the roof. The front guards were also prone (behind the wheel where it attaches to the sill) Depending on the quality of the rubber seals in the boot, usually the spare wheel well, or the steel on either side of the boot (near the wheel well) There are others, but I don't usually see more than that. Some have windscreens rusted out, but you don't know the history, as someone may have replaced the glass. The ones that I stated above are usually the ones that just happen due to poor design from Nissan

That is great feed back to get. So it does have rust.... I think you could put a C210 in a humidity crib, and never drive it and it would still rust out $10K? I personally don't think he'll get that. Be interested to see what someone will pay for it though, just wont be me.

They are a great looking car that's for sure.

Photos?

With RWC? Does it have the factory computer?

I think if this car was a C110 coupe, I'd be bidding on it. If I was to buy it, I don't think I could leave it alone. I'd have to change a whole bunch of stuff just so I could drive it. It's not even a C210 GT-EX or what ever the turbo'd L20 version was. That's more desirable IMHO.

I would say welding Titanium is similar to welding aluminium/steel than Stainless. Stainless is a poor conductor of heat, whereas Ti is reasonably good. Typically everyone uses TIG for stainless, but it depends on the application. Personally I use TIG for welding exhaust systems, but it requires tight tolerances on your joins. Anyone that can weld with a TIG should be able to have a crack on Ti. What exactly are you welding? If it's an exhaust system or lobster style intercooler pipes, make sure you get the suitable grade of Ti. I will go out on a limb and say NOBODY uses MIG for Titanium. I've never seen titanium wire to feed through a MIG.

I think he means: the exhaust turbine is enclosed in cast iron. If the exhaust turbine wheel exploded, it would be thrown out the back of the car, and nothing would get into the engine. (for example)