wht510

^^^^ BLOODY WELL SAID.

I've got the factory MIL light on the SR20 fitted to the 1600. Never use it though. I just plug in the nistune software and it tells me the fault codes. Pretty easy and highly recommended. C34 has a motor in the front and so does the M35. Both are made by Nissan. Both have an AFM and by the sounds of it, have a limp home mode. That's enough commonality for me Rocket Scientist? Nah, just willing to help a nissan brother out...

98% different hey? I was going to say: "Well on my SR20......" I was right anyway, despite the fact that I own a 4 cylinder. BAHAHhahahaha. AND it still ended up being the AFM!

Moisture in the AFM? I'm not sure about M35's but most AFM are hot wire. They have a limited life due to the thermal cycles they go though. You might have even gone over a speed hump and it may have broken. The only way you can find out if they are good or bad is diagnostic software or replace it with a working version.

Sounds like you need to visit a tuner mate. Tell them the symptoms and they can plug in their diagnostic software and suggest the fix. Another method is to borrow someone elses AFM from an M35 and plug that in place of yours.

Might be the Air Flow meter. When they die, the engine goes into limp home mode and idles like a biatch.

Factory intercooler for sale?

It doesn't necessarily need to be turbo either. You could replace the L20ET with a fuel injected balanced and generally tweaked high compression L28, and it would be reliable and fun to drive. Plus you get that awesome noise of 6 EFI trumpets sucking in air and fuel. It would still require engineers though if you wanted it street legal (DOH!)

Am I missing something? Turboing a car or putting another different motor into it requires an engineers certificate (well at least in Vic) So if you use an L28 and turbo it, the cost of getting it engineered would be fairly similar to putting in an RB30ET.

You both have solid suggestions, but to put things into perspective, if the car was an HR30, then I would argue keep the L series. If it's just the common R30, then stick a VH45 in it for all I care.

If you suspect it to be a police officer, just dob them into the hoon line. Enough people dob them in, an investigation will follow.

Did you check him for ID?

HAhahaha. Too true. Just loose it with cycling so you have a lower centre of gravity

Congrats on the new bub Mark! Where abouts are you going to start in getting weight out of the R35? Stripping the interior? getting a Lighter Battery? Driver loosing weight?

Problem is this: I am a courteous driver, and typically if I see someone who is in a 'hurry' behind me on a freeway, road or anything with two lanes, I generally speed up and move over to the other lane. So I guess I would be pulled over and the cop would ream me a new one. I personally hate it when someone slows down to say 80 in a 100 zone, so that's probably what you'd want to do if you had someone behind you. You're not technically breaking the law either.

Condition?

Depends on what frequency they work on. Some of the laser parking sensors work on the 904nm wavelength which is basically a 'free to air' kind of band, and means you are perfectly within your right to transmit on that frequency. If you just happened to have your 'parking sensor' working on the same frequency and it just so happen to jam their speed gun, it's their bad luck.

Except for the ones that aren't in big white station wagons, and are in shit boxes, or perhaps the garbage bin, or perhaps you might even be so busy looking at your speedo to make sure you aren't speeding that you don't see the damn thing. I pick 'em. I'm far from retarded, except for when it's at night and i'm too busy looking for retards doing 60 in an 80 zone. Then I get done for 84. Revenue raising.... that's all it is.

Aircraft have minimum requirements that would make your eyes boggle, For exhausts/intercooler pipe I wouldn't even bother purging.

Depends on the application. Typically the usual Argon gas specified for TIG welding is a good enough 'shield' to stop oxidation of the weld when molten. So you just weld the stuff as per usual with the TIG. (making sure you have the right gas in the bottle!) If you are welding pressure vessel tubing or similar, purging the tube with Argon helps minimise oxidation/porosity when you penetrate through to the other side. It's all fairly straight forward. For example, if I was welding a Ti tube with a Ti fitting on the end, I would run the torch gas (without welding) into the tube that was taped up on the other end. I'd fill the tube with argon from the torch allowing the oxygen to escape from the other side. Once I think most of the tube is full, I tape up the two holes (one at one end where you put the argon and one at the other which allows the purging to take place, I then start welding.

Actually I tend to agree with the previous comment of just softening it off. In high horsepower applications, the car will try and rotate due to the dynamic weight transfer. Having some bar in there will stop this from happening, but then again, so will revised springs and shocks.... Meh. take it off

Cool thanks for the information.

So you don't own multiple cars, and then not display them in the side bar? Settle down mate, I'm only making sure before offering assistance...

Hey Mark & Trent, I'm pretty interested in what KW the car makes before and after you open the exhaust valve. Did you do a before and after test? Great work on the car by the way!

I'm going to take a guess and say it's in an R33 GTS-T???