wht510

Tried resonators on RB's? Yep. Rb's are great, because they are easier to shut up due to the smaller cylinder capacity (SR20 = 500cc per cylinder, RB26 = 433cc per cylinder, therefore pulses are less in amplitude. A resonator will get you over the line, but it depends on the outer diameter, the packing/hole size and the length. Have a look at the "Helmholtz resonator" and how they work. It's an excellent method of removing exhaust energy with minimal restriction to the exhaust system. Some work and some don't. It depends on the quality and if the exhaust shop knows what they are doing. The fitment of a quality resonator WILL lower your sound output on your car with minimal restriction. Fitment of an absorption muffler is a larger resonator. Fitment of a reflective muffler will lower your sound even more, but will provide more back pressure. For the SR20, the fitment of the resonator that I made was a permanent fixture. I value my and others hearing.

If getting a custom exhaust system/dump pipe etc., you must maintain the same distance or shorter the factory CAT was from the turbo. This is the legal method and you will pass the EPA requirements.

Yeah? I made my own resonator. It was inserted inside the 3" stainless system I have on my SR20DET 1600, and took the diameter down to 2.5" It was approximately 300mm long and packed full of stainless steel wool. I was tested by my engineer before insertion and I pumped out 99db(A). This was at 500mm and at 4800rpm (2/3 max RPM), after the insertion I pulled 94db(A) which is a pass for a pre 1976 vehicle (requirement at 96db(A)) Resonators work and they are the best way of pulling sound energy out of the exhaust. They aren't as effective as a muffler (well it depends on the dimensions), but they provide the least amount of restriction and sound ace on full boost.

How old is it? (much life left in the girl )

Best thing to do would be to go down to your local exhaust shop, and buy some 90degree mandrel bend (or press bend for that matter) sections in mild steel. You can then cut the required shape out of the bend, and weld that in instead. That's what did when I made my custom stainless steel dump pipe for my SR20DET. Plus you get a nice shallow flow path for the waste gate gases to merge back into the main stream.

Usually what I do to make up an exhaust flange is to go down to the wreckers, and buy a 2nd hand manifold, draw it up on CAD, and then get it laser cut in 10mm mild steel (sometimes 12). It's easier if someone lends you a manifold to copy, or you already have one. Sometimes you can just buy the gasket and use that to draw your manifold up in CAD.

Can you prove this? I guess it depends on your definition of turbulence...

Any positions still available for this? I have a feeling my membership is coming in the mail for occasions like this!

Spoken like a true GTS-T owner Seriously though, I love the 400R kit, and would love an R33 GTR with one fitted. R33 GTR's are pretty rare here in melb, and the 400R body kit would just make it all the better.

Guys, Don't be afraid of getting systems with resonators in them. They can actually improve power (most of the time by only 2kW ), and make the car sound quieter, by removing the lower frequencies (drone) of the exhaust system. a long Helmholtz resonator is the only way to go IMHO to improve drone type resonance in an exhaust system, but it has to be tuned to the specific resonance/drone you are interested in removing. Custom systems need a couple of gos to get this, but once it is done, you sell it to everyone. Probably the way Willall has done it. Martin, I'm a bit interested by your 'diversion plates' and tubulence inducing thingy-me-bobs. I thought the rule of thumb with the exhaust is trying to promote less turbulence in the system, which in turn provides better flow and less back pressure. Hence the absorbing style muffler (straight through) are promoted more for race applications than the reflective (internal baffled system) style muffler.

What pads are they? What are the disks? (DBA's RDA's or OEM?) How many K's have the disks done?

"Everything is for sale at the right price" What about swaps? I'd possibly swap my SR20DET Datsun 1600 for an R35 GTR, but then realising that all that blood sweat and tears would just be swapped for a car that I could just buy anyway (for over $100K!), probably isn't worth it. Plus the fact that the R35 owner would be getting a superior car.... (or should that be swapping a superior car....) HAHhahaha.

Any updates as to the performance of the KU36 at track days?

Please note to the person who SMS'd me, the COMPLETE front end has been sold. Don't have any LCA's left (unless you want Datsun 1600? )

Moving factory, this stuff HAS to go.

This would be the 'famous' ZOOM Martin Donnon! Just don't give him a Datsun with 200kw in it... Supposedly they drive like a '....Dangerous Death trap....'?

Sounds pretty good. My old RB20DET (red top NICS) with 200K on the clock had an even 120psi across all 6 cylinders. I think if they are all even you should be laughing.

Why you selling? that's a pretty good price. I assume it will be complied in Sydney?

I'd remove the filter as stated previously and use a sandwich plate and put the probe in there. You will get the oil temperature pretty much how you want it, right where the oil pressure should be read aswell. Oil temperature gauge mounting: I'd mount it in a place that's not too hard to see, but somewhere where it doesn't stick out too much, as you wont be referring to it too often...

Got any more photos? Does it have a gate pattern on the top of it? Would you include postage to Melbourne for that price?

Bump Bumperooo

Front end sold

Very nice thread guys. Anyone thought of water injection to get a little more power with Gas/Petrol?

PS pump sold pending payment Radiator sold pending payment.

Best thing to do is get some 'CRC' Air Flow Meter cleaner or carby cleaner. Basically it's a whole bunch of solvents which clean all the dirt/oil and other crap on your hot wire AFM. If that doesn't work, I'd replace the air flow meter. Same thing happened on my R32 RB20DET. The AFM died, and it wouldn't idle properly. No amount of cleaner would fix it. I had to replace it. After you have checked all the vacuum lines, get stuck into the AFM.