wht510

I'm an SAU member and I was faster than Chris and Jad in my Datsun 1600, should I be in the points? Fastest lap was 1:11.3 (just gotta beat Chris!!!)

Perhaps if they suit the newer AGM and Lithium batteries, I think you might be onto a winner. The plastic battery boxes are to freaken large for these new little batteries!

Oh and John, sorry for getting in the way with the datto! Was still learning the track and learning the car. First time out with her.

What cameras are you guys using? Certainly some good footage.

Very happy with the Datto and the way it went. Still a bit in her. Gotta sort out some gremlins and then keen on the next one!

Weather should be pretty good if it clears up today.

Hoping the weather is good for this one... 3 Datsun 1600's!

Just confirming the AO3 and AU3 uses the 1.7 multiplier for turbo cars (that is a 2 litre then becomes AO3 at 3.4 litres)

Datto will be ready! Hopefully it will be dry!

My memory is hazy on this, but I thought it was around 60% of peak RPM (based on the factory limit) at 500mm at around 45 degree off axis with minimal reflective surfaces during the measurement (the meter must be away from reflective surfaces.) Can't remember where I had this information though, so not 100% sure it's right... EDIT: actually I thought it was 50% of max rpm... Gotta find the EPA doc...

Glad I'm not the only one that struggles to find anything. 90 pages of 'info' is more like 'comment on stuff about the M35.'

Coil overs are illegal usually (unless you get hem signed off by an engineer), because typically you can change the characteristics of your car and how it brakes/handles etc. Most people that fit coil overs usually aren't suspension engineers, and therefore may decrease the cars performance. (this doesn't factor in people who actually know what they are doing though, does it.....) I have seen instances where cars fitted with 'coil overs' have had issues with braking in an emergency stop situation. I've got coil overs fitted to my 1600, and they are currently 100% legal because I got an automotive engineer to sign off (we did a brake test to check the brakes too)

Yes, and by the way, welcome XR8TD to Skylines Australia..... I think what GTRRKT meant to say was "Thanks for sharing with us your experience and letting us know what's going on out there".

Maybe... Might bring the Stag this time instead of the datto (which has just undergone a turbo transplant!)

How'd you go Chuckie? Want to know what kind of results you are getting with your oil analysis.

Some of the issues are: 1. Can you prove that you didn't have an open air BOV? Perhaps if you have some reasonable evidence, then no problem. 2. If you went to court, would they believe you or the cop? Unfortunately the law is an a$ and we pay for it.

Comes down to whether you are using AC or DC and as stated previously depends on material. Typically for steel and its variants (stainless etc.) use a 'sharp' tip, and for aluminium/magnesium, use a blunt tip. I've used a blunt tip for Titanium too with success. For Aluminium, use a blunt tip (electrode thickness determined by wall thickness of panel/part etc.). Don't use the same gas you use for stainless/steel MIG welding (which contains impurities such as CO2), but instead go for pure Argon for Al, stainless etc. Obviously depending on speed and penetration required.

Also make sure the polarity for the TIG is correct. Consult your documentation to make sure you are using AC and DC where appropriate.

Quality looking work.

+1 for Phil at Tokyo Prestige (in VIC) I bought my NM35 Axis Autech from Phil. Car has been great. Poor bloke got pretty sick when he was over in Japan looking for my car. Regardless he was very helpful and keen to help. Communication is the key with importers. You want to make sure they let you know of everything that is going to happen. Phil delivers. I knew exactly where my car was, I knew about the duty for importing, I knew about the steam cleaners which were cleaning it all out. etc. If you are going to use 'The Import Factory' in Nunawading VIC for compliance, my suggestion would be to get the car checked over by your fav. mechanic and road worthied before getting compliance done by The Import Factory. Their rates are pretty high ($110 an hour for generic mechanic work) which is pretty steep for something which I don't really think was quality work. I had to organise a windscreen replacement (it was cracked probably in transport) because The Import Factory couldn't find one. (WTF?) I also had to double check most of their quotes because they couldn't be bothered finding the best components at the cheapest price. They wanted to import full suspension arm sub-assy's when I only needed some new bushes (cracked rubber covers on the castor arms - RWC problem) as an example. The mechanics didn't do the basics, such as an oil change and filter change (I drained the engine oil/gearbox oil/ brake fluid/radiator fluid, and most of them were pretty dark like the car had knocked off 5-10K). I think it's a compliance regulation they must change the brake fluid... I had the car checked over by my local mechanic ( nothing like a second pair of eyes) to check anything I may have missed (usually I don't but it's better to be safe than sorry). After having the basic bits and pieces fixed, I noticed the child restraints The Import Factory had fitted were leaking water into the back of the car. I fixed it by making up some simple foam gaskets and mounting it underneath. Luckily I found the leaks appearing on the carpet. Otherwise I probably would have never found it. Aside from all of these small issues, the car has been great. Love it. Love how the damn thing grips in the wet. Handling is pretty good in the dry and the wet and fairly predictable for a reasonably fat wagon. It's a great cruising and you can fit a surprising amount in the boot.

Ash, I'm keen. Happy to do some reviews. Unfortunately I can only comment on 'upgrades' to an M35 Stagea and a Datsun 1600 which I am about to upgrade a few engine components. I can comment on generic oil/intercooers/seat belts/ Race seats/ engine air-fuel meters etc. and generic components which can be used on either etc. Let me know if you want some engineering input. I can comment on reviews and if the component/modification may affect whether the car requires an engineering cert (to remain legal in Victoria. Other states I have NFI!) I can also comment if the review requires more testing/ statistical data, or more appropriate information to justify certain claims.

Bumping this for my bro's over in WA. TAKE PRECAUTIONS. Hail damage is a mo fo..

'Ken Oath!

Hmmm interesting. Custom making piping is pretty expensive (definitely not $50), but I get where you are going with re making the hangars. That would cost your quoted $50, so you are spot on. Getting the hangers changed would work pretty well, so it's a good suggestion. Flush under the body is going to melt $hit! you need at least 25mm (the requirement). Stainless sheet with air gaps are your friend. I'm not implying it's hard. Hell, I made the whole stainless system on my 1600 including the dump (took me 4 days just for the dump mind you because I made it from scratch, but did get the flanges laser cut...)

So what is involved in an 'exhaust tuck'?