wht510

What about running a small cooler such as: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Oil-cooler-suit-auto-transmission-power-steering-/260834396509?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cbaf1095d or http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Al-Transmission-Engine-Oil-Cooler-10-row-Hi-Performance-/110378246197?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19b30e6035 and just plumbing it before the radiator as previously suggested? What size cooler are you guys running and where do you put it?

Sounds like you need to just fit a MoTeC and be done with it?

What's the difference?

I feel sorry for the person who had to trawl through 128 pages of 'recipe thread' to get there

Looks great. No wheel spacers needed? offset looks pretty perfect.

Spotted again driving down springvale road North bound this time. Silver M35 with gold TE-37 style wheels, brembo brakes, roof racks and a lady driving. Custom plate (but I can't remember what it was!)

What sort of temps does the oil temp get up to Scotty? Anything crazy?

Doesn't the informeter use the temp out from the sensor in the block, which goes to the ECU? This is the same sensor as used by the gauge?

Really? Care to elaborate? Mine pretty much sits on just over half way in 40+ deg heat in peak hour.

All good questions. How about getting it recoed? I know some of the power steering companies can do them in under half a day.

That forum is good, but there's information on here that isn't on there and vice versa. it's just another forum to visit...

Might bring the 1600. (although It might be in pieces as i'm fitting the 2860RS)

HAhahhahahah Gold.

Just clicked over 80,000. Had the castor bushes replaced as one of the boots was broken (RWC when it was complianced with 71K on the clock) I changed the cabin filter, it was changed at 45K in Japan. Changed spark plugs Numerous oil changes and filter changes including gearbox/diffs Cleaned out all the accumulated leaves where the battery sits (luckily no rust!) Had the Tanabe shocks fitted (seem to be pretty good for cruising) Rear glass hatch section not lifting (not 100% sure, but will get an auto elec to look at it when I can be bothered). main tailgate still lifts, so I'm ok. Seems to be going well at the moment. Next service is at 85K where I'll get the family mechanic to look it over and see if I've missed anything, or fix anything that I don't have time for (read: allow me to spend my time on the 1600 instead) Still has lots of squirt!

You know what I realised? 1. You guys don't have a day job, because if I was your boss and caught you guys jibbering this stuff during work I would fire you! Forget facebook 2. Aaron is a tight arse 3. Aaron isn't really concerned with the life of his shocks on the track (the larger dia reduces the shear on the oil, as the shock damping holes can be larger as the piston area is greater) Fine by me. 4. This isn't really M35 Info. It's more like "M35 Lets have a conversation so when people are looking for information they have to trawl through 65 pages of goodness to get it INFO" Why doesn't someone create a new thread/topic to discuss this or is that too logical? <end rant>

Yes nearly. I think it was before FTgully road (I was heading southbound like you before they turned left onto a side street) Is it you?

Spotted a Silver M35 with roof racks and gold wheels turning off Springvale Road (VIC) heading southbound (I was in the Axis driving to work and you turned left onto a side street) Anyone on here? I drive down springvale road to get to work.

Yeah I would've said about that. I was going to say $600. Depends on who and how they do it, and whether you want the paint to match or 'match'

Plus there is reasonably good access in behind for panel beating dolleys. Should be fairly straight forward to pull it out even without access to the rear. They would just weld a tab on and pull it out with one of those panel beating pull hammers. Looks pretty easy to fix.

Depends on the repairer. Some will just fill it full of body filler! Got any photos of the ding? I can tell you whether it's going to be easy or hard!

Both (Bloody vicroads )

If you are running a cage you have to have padding in the head area. If the cage was built pre Jan 2011 and fitted to the car, the cage must follow the Vicroads requirements before Jan 2011. If the Cage was fitted after Jan 2011, then the car shouldn't be on the road as it doesn't conform to the Vicroads standards. (NOTE: The rules have changed... If you can prove the cage was built before January 2011 and fitted, then you should be fine. if it was built and fitted after Jan 2011, then you have no chance of having a cage in your car and it being legal/RWC) Police usually take the easy way out and will declare the car isn't RWC because you have a cage fitted regardless of when you had it fitted unless you have written proof etc. that it was before the Jan 2011 period. You can get the car registered as a two seater by simply applying to vicroads. You don't have to get it engineered. You must remove seatbelts and seats before you do this. This will allow you to fit the cage and the race seat. No harnesses are allowed, unless the car came out of the factory with one. harnesses are only allowed on cars pre seat belt ADR's (such as Datsun 1600's or some old Holden/fords etc.)

One other thing I'm very interested in is the amount of ZDDP (Zinc) as an additive in oils. As the oils start to progress further to meeting tougher regulations such as API SM and API SN, the amount of zinc starts to decrease. Sometimes you are better of buying an older type of oil which is less environmentally friendly, but better for your engine..... (copied from the Penrite website: Zinc Dialkyl DithioPhosphate, also referred to as ZDDP or the "zinc" in an oil, is a chemical compound which is a very effective anti-wear agent. For this reason, when ZDDP levels were lowered in oils to meet the latest specifications in some new vehicles, it caused worldwide panic, as older vehicles manufactured pre-2006 needed the high levels of zinc (especially preferred and required by pre-1970s vehicle owners). For futher details on ZDDP and oils in the Penrite range which have lower zinc levels ( Enviro+ range), please refer to Technical Bulletins 85,128,129,137 and 149.)

Also with filters, they only start to become 'efficient' when the are approximately 60-80% full of crap. I have a colleague who worked at Ryco. He was saying if you change the filter every 10,000k's instead of 5,000k's for a daily driver, you actually are better of in terms of particulate capture. I still change mine at 7K for the Stag and 5K for the Datto.

Interesting. For my SR20DET for race applications, I was told to run a fully synthetic 10W-60 or 20W-60. For serious abuse I was told an oil change and filter before each race application. I agree with the 10W-40 comment though. For a daily driver a semi-synth of a reasonable quality with a reasonably high percentage of Zinc (ZDPT I think it's called??) should be fine. I change my Stag every 7500K's with a new filter.