wht510

Cool. Thanks for the responses! Means I'm not going to worry about it

I guess the question which hasn't been asked is: How much oil do your catch cans collect? Do you drain them back to the sump?

Where would the underbody bracing go? The lowest point on my car is the exhaust and no amount of bracing is going to fix that

HAHahhaahha... I'd really like to see how low your car is going to be and how much damage you are going to do to the underside.

Just to agree... They go back in there because it is part of the 'environmental protection' of using all vapours through the engine etc.! Even fuel vapours that come out of the charcoal canister get re-used into the engine. Optimal setup depends on your sump size, what boost you are running (which to some extent has an effect on blow by) and how efficient the scavenging of the 'catch can' is. Draining back to the sump is good, but you don't want to pressurise your sump, so use suitable PCV valves, and vent the 'cleaned' air back into the factory position. Then less oil gets into the intake and you don't increase your chance of detonation. The S14/S15 SR20DET has a great factory 'catch can' built into the rocker cover. The design means most of the oil gets returned to the sump, and it still vents back into a 'factory position' after the AFM and before the turbo. Works excellent.

Spotted white M35 heading west bound on Ferntree Gully Road last night. Closely following was a holden ute who bottomed out on the intersection (crossing it) and sparks flew! Number plate of the M35 was M35WGN I think... Anyone on here?

It's a stagea FFS... It's not meant to handle

It might be on airbags...

What sort of driving do you do for that kind of economy?

I gave the Stag a service on the weekend: New Oil (Penrite full Synthetic 10w-40) Cleaned the intake filter. (Compressed air) New Diff oil front and rear (Motul Gear 300 75w-90) Replaced the air conditioner filter behind the glove box. (Easy and didn't break anything!) My air conditioner filter was replaced at around 40K by Japan Nissan! My Car has a pretty good service history which is good! ALSO..... Where the battery is I found the other fuse box! While looking at the battery compartment, I noticed a pool of water under the battery tray.. Ripped the battery out and the battery tray and the rubber grommet (closest to the front guard) was full of mulch! So ripped it out (after dropping the damn thing through the hole and fishing it out through the wheel well) and cleaned it up. I also cleaned up the area as it was full of leaves and stuff. Tipped a whole bunch of water in there to clean it out, and then sprayed the whole area with CRC and put it all back together. Luckily no rust was in the area! NOW I don't get a gurgling noise when I accelerate and the windscreen doesn't fog up!!! Highly recommended!

NM35 VQ25DET Factory ECU/Turbo etc. Only mods: Aftermarket exhaust muffler, Blitz Panel filter and 'power duct'. New plugs etc. Update to fuel economy: Lowest to date: 9.54L/100K (Driving to Adelaide) Highest to date: 15.20L/100K (repeatedly driving to work during peak hour damn it) Most K's to a tank (or close to) 683 Avg economy 11.5L/100K

I'm a bit partial to the Axis... that's why I bought one.. I have to say they look sick with R34 GTR wheels.

Have you looked at your roof rack? Sometimes water might come in through there and work its way down the B pillar into the floor? Just an idea (suggesting something completely different)

Changed the diff oil in both front and rear diffs. Used Motul Gear 300 Quite easy. Used a bit of a guidance by Aaron via PM a couple of weeks before hand on how many litres to expect and a few tools required. I've got photos. Might put up a tutorial. Used an 10mm allen key (but cheated and used a 10mm allen socket with breaker bar/rachet spanner) Drained the old oil fairly quickly, and then flushed, and cleaned off all the old metallic wear from the magnet! Filled her up and laughing! Very easy. When you do a normal oil change, (taking the front tray off) the front diff is EASY to access to change the oil in. Overall, it's a very quick and easy thing to do! Oil was expensive though! I bought 3L of Motul (in 1 litre containers) in 75W-90 in 300 (I think it was...) It was $30 a bottle!

Surge tanks are fine. For being street legal you have to obey the following: As long as they are in a vented compartment, which can contain a fire if a fitting comes loose and drops/sprays fuel everywhere. If you put your surge inside your boot, you must have a box surrounding it, ideally made of metal, with venting to the outside world. Race application is different, and I wont comment as I have always had a 'street legal' car so never worried about scrutineers.

still for sale?

Hmmm.. Sounds like me. I sent a message, but never got a response.

Spotted a red M35 on Wellington Rd (VIC) heading east bound with female driver.

+1 for the QFM A1RM's I wasn't really a fan of the EBC's as when I bought a set they would dust something shocking, and this dust would EAT the wheels! Pads were pretty good. Pretty average when cold though! Dunc, just make sure you change your fluid to something with a slightly higher boiling point. The increase efficiency of the pads at operating temperature means you are bouncing up closer to the boiling point of standard brake fluids, giving your nice new pads a squishy pedal!

PM SENT!

AAron, where did you get the tune done?

Where did you get the Greddy Profec from and how much did you pay? (if I may ask)

Love it. Bends or no bends, it looks like a nice bit of gear. PM me the price?

Who made the dump?

You can make anything fit I was thinking putting a VH45DETT into it and ripping out heaps of stuff to make it lighter and TRACK IT! Would be funny using a stagea to trailer a stagea