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wht510

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Everything posted by wht510

  1. There's only so much an "exhaust tuck" will do. Plus it would be fairly expensive if done right.
  2. You can ask the suspension place to put some rubber spacers in. This may get you out of trouble and take care of some of the sag in the springs which occur over time. Attending to the exhaust and raising it up slightly is a good idea.
  3. C130 Butaketsu (cops butt) Coupe all the way. You must have a bit of money though. C130 later model may have a 2.8L 6 cylinder L series which would be awesome for Targa. Plus they came with IRS. C110 coupe second to this. Or just settle for a 510 coupe. (how's that for a thread revival?? ) How'd you go getting one in by the way?
  4. I think because of the following reasons: 1. Cars have safety features which you can affect by modifying. (Airbags, seatbelts, crumple zones, etc. etc.) Just think about that fully sick 5" monster tacho you see on some dash's. Then picture said tacho hitting the driver in the head when their whole body is flung forward because they rear ended someone. 2. Cars have pollution equipment in place to minimise how much nasty stuff you inhale when your mate drives off. CATs are fitted for a reason. Cars are tuned for pollution minimisation. etc. 3. Modifications done by back yarders can be dangerous as they haven't got full knowledge of engineering principles and the ADR's. 4. Putting modifications to driveline components (such as fully sik 22" chrome bling wheels) means other components wear out faster as increased loads contribute to extra stresses on the system. Again, your average backyarder (and some mechanics for that matter) have no idea when it comes to 'system engineering'. Hence why we have to use an automotive engineer for drastic and not so drastic changes. I guess to sympathise with you about 2 intake mods.... Agreed, the EPA are a bunch of idiots. They should be educating car enthusiasts on how to get the most performance and fuel economy, but minimal impact on the environment. Don't get me started on Vicroads. Those guys have no idea what so ever. They brought in some rules to say cages weren't allowed to be fitted to cars (at all) because it affected crumple zones etc. Pity that means older cars (say pre 90's) which may not have crumple zones now could not have a cage if you wanted to drive it on the road. Fortunately they have reversed their decision. Twits!
  5. I don't have one in the stag, as I do the same thing. usually the 1-2 minute cool down drive is enough. I use a turbo timer in the 1600. It's got a volt meter built in and can display speed in digital (handy for when the speedo tops out at 200km/h)! It also helps to reduce oil temp (even after the 1-2 minute cool down lap). Most race guys usually let their car idle for a good 1-2 minutes even after they stop just to stabilize temperatures. $hit gets pretty hot, and 1-2 minutes warm down lap sometimes doesn't cut it. I'm not really worried about the water cooled turbo. I'm more concerned about the aftermarket stainless dump pipe and exhaust system I have fitted, and other associated engine components requiring slow temperature differential. Anyway, you guys do what you want on your cars, and I'll play on the safe side.
  6. HAhHAhahaha. So you actually use the cool down lap as a cool down lap?
  7. I like turbo timers on modern cars (with water cooled turbo's) so when you track them, you can let it slowly cool down which allows the whole thing to cool down uniformly!
  8. Just an FYI. I had the Datsun 1600 measured (only front to rear weight distribution) at a local tip which had a set of large scales to measure cars/trailers. I think it cost me $25 or something quite small like that. You can weigh the whole car and while you are there, put half the car on the plate and measure the rear/front which then gives you the weight distribution. Wont give you corner weights but helps with the front/rear balance. I've transferred the battery to the rear (passenger side) for suitable 'wedge'. With the SR20DET/intercooler/S14 gearbox/big brakes etc. the cars weight distribution was 52/48. Total weight was 1080kg with half a tank. Not too bad IMHO. A bit more tweaking and I'll get 50/50, but I'll worry about that later. next thing is to try and measure the corner weights!
  9. Not sure if you can do this, but what the hell. I'll suggest it anyway. I reckon the cheapest and quickest way to get it registered again would be to: 1. Consult with automotive engineer regarding getting the car fitted with emissions compliant motor. 2. Buy it 3. Fit 350Z VQ35DE and all emissions gear in place 4. Get Engineered with the alternate engine with all emissions in place and get car complied. Compliance is the biggest load of $hit for M35's. They practically do nothing, although they did do the emissions and crash testing with a dummy to start off with, and that is what you are paying for.
  10. I recommend not getting a pod, but instead using the factory air box, getting a K&N filter or the like, and getting the 'power duct' genuine nissan attachment (part number is somewhere on here) It's cheaper than a pod and performs just as good if not better and you retain your cold air intake. It also seals to the top of the bonnet too! I actually got mine serviced after compliance, because the compliance workshop didn't change the fluids. (Idiots) The key with these things is to change the oil and filter often as per the typical turbo oil replacement schedule. Luckily with mine the service history was good, so it didn't really need it, but better safe than sorry.
  11. I don't know. These days guessing everyone elses speed isn't really my business. I'm too busy trying to guess my speed and the F&*Kwit in front of me. Can you tell if they are doing 84 in a 60 zone? I don't think I could.
  12. One website: http://www.aussiemotorists.com/speeddebate/speeddebate.html
  13. Cops? Nope, don't flash. They're just doing their job. Positive reinforcement I think. Speed camera with some fat slob sitting there. You bet. That's Australian. Don't want some poor ba$tard getting a ticket for doing 64 in a 60 zone do we?
  14. Yeah? Is that the same for other countries? Is it a statement referring to if the car ends up hitting something stationary, then the chance of the occupants living decreases? I find this hard to believe, as with all new cars and greater safety, the speed would be increasing as we speak (more new cars being sold etc.) Perhaps statistically there are slower speed limits and more traffic on the road slowing down due to congestion so wouldn't it decrease? Would you say 50 years ago this number would be different? I would hazard a guess to say if you were doing 40km/h your chance of death would be higher than now due to car safety and road design? Really, I think the whole speed camera statement helping the traffic safety is complete bull$hit.
  15. Yeah I know, that's the weird thing about it! I'm not sure. I just like the feeling of changing the filter AND the oil at the same time. Kind of like changing your jocks AND your socks...
  16. Supposedly if you change the filter at least 3-4 times during the 40,000K's it should be alright. Me, I think I'll just stick with a "full" synthetic for $55 and change every 7,500k's.....
  17. 8L/100K is impressive. You running E10 or something?
  18. Looking forward to fitting my GT2860RS to the Datto!

  19. HAhahahhaha.. I've never understood the C34 VS M35 family fight. They are both Nissans FFS! BOTH look like Volvos. One looks like an old volvo and one looks like a new one. Why can't we just get along??? I can understand C34 owners getting upset when M35 owners rub the C34 noses in our glorious 5 speed auto box, more leg room, less cabin noise, better weight distribution, newer technology, better handling, better interior, better ride, more room in the back, better stock power and better fuel economy.......
  20. Nice one Andy. Quality info. Like the temp probe in the zorst! Are you running a scotty special dump too, or factory?
  21. AAaahhhh... Gotcha. That makes sense.
  22. Yes I know it's not a VQ, but it is a nissan motor
  23. I don't get it. I'm running an 044 in the Datsun (SR20DET), and didn't have to upgrade the fuel pressure reg. The pressure it supplies is pretty much as per the factory (maybe a little higher, but nothing the standard SR20 reg can't deal with), the flow capability is the difference.
  24. BAHAhahhahhahhha Gold. At least you have redundancy though (well to some extent)
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