wht510

Super mega epic to the power of rad Lol at this... It's safety related man! I don't give two shits on who is paying for it. I'd rather know!

Same. Couldn't find anything. I have had my Stagea serviced at Glen Waverly Nissan (Never again..), so would have thought they would have the VIN and details in the system. BUT I have been told Nissan Japan doesn't share recall info with Nissan Aus. What the?

How much are you paying for an analysis?

Does anyone have any updates as to the Airbag recall for the Takata Air bag issue? Can't find any information on the NM35 or M35 for that matter.

BAHahahahaha... It has begun!

At least with a Stagea, there's enough room to fit your mum in it.... (yes, it's a shit joke, but I had to get in there before someone else did....)

Rightyo... You've lowered your car and this is the reason why you are investigating this? By placing the RCA's on the front, you will be raising the roll centre back up to where it was close to when factory. By physically raising the rear end, you will not be changing any geometry (which will be good for camber/toe curves staying close to factory) and effectively raising the roll centre back close to factory. If the roll centre(s) are set too low, there is usually more body roll and you have to set stiffer springs or bars which can be a compromise. If you are going to uprate your suspension and run harder springs, the slightly lower roll centres wont matter as much. Lower roll centres and stiffer bars usually increases the corner weight (more weight transfer) and therefore makes you a little faster in the dry but slides easier in the wet. Roll centres too high usually causes jacking and minimal body roll and can make the cars suspension hard to tune. Just remember load will transfer quicker where the roll centre is higher. This can help tune understeer/oversteer depending on what you want and where your COG is.

As Scotty said, it's something that takes a bit of time to go through. I'll give it a very quick shot, as I've got a little time... I'm running a 1.5L surge under the car. It's got a single Bosch 044 (definitely overkill) for the main pressure, and a Pierberg lift pumping into the surge. I'm running 5/8" hard line to the reg., and 3/8" return with a mix of Aeroflow fittings and EFI-Tech fuel hose/clamps. I'm running 204rwKw with 380Nm out of the SR20DET. The Datsun isn't graced with the best in tank setup, hence the system i'm running. The calculation you have to figure out is based on the Hp you are running and your application. For drag, circuit, street, they are all different. Mines setup for track (with legal street) so I will detail that. A very basic rule is 400hp at engine = 2.1L/min requirement. The Peirberg runs approx 1.9L/min into the surge. The 044 EASILY can supply 600hp+ at the engine (not the wheels) I'm running less HP than that, so my capacity for the surge including topping up by the lift is approximately even. In other words, the requirement for the lift pump to match the consumption of the surge tank is equal if I had my foot flat for 100% of the time. Now factor in corners: If the corner goes for around 20 seconds (that's a long corner) I still have enough fuel even if the lift pump is sucking air. If my lift pump dies, then I have approximately 1 minute of fuel at 400hp (which I don't have), so it would be a little longer.

Replace the lamps. Make sure you get colour matched ones I had the same issue with my Stagea running Xennons, and they would both go out when driving at night. Fixed by replacing the old ones with new ones.

My NM35 Stag has HID Xenons, and for some reason they work fine for about 30 minutes, but then one will 'go out'. Usually if I turn the lights off and then turn them back on again, they re-strike and keep working but after a short period of time, one will go out again. Is this a sign the bulbs need replacing, or is it the ballast?

Oh and I don't think it was dust that did mine. I think it was vibration. I drove to Korumburra recently via kooweerup and the roads out there require a lift kit and 35" tyres. 115,000k's might contribute to that

I've just had mine fitted (personally!) by Scotty as I was 'stranded' at Nissan. I was quoted $270+gst from Nissan for the 22680-6N21A version after providing my VIN (informed it was supposedly not the original part number that I had done 115,000K on, but the next revision from Nissan) NOTE: for those who think it's the AFM that needs replacing: I couldn't get my car to idle at all (5 seconds ish of idling like it was on 3 cylinders and then stopping), and as soon as I disconnected the AFM it was drivable in limp home mode. Got me out of trouble, that's for sure. Thanks Scotty for the AFM. I'll let you know how it goes (I'll keep noting the fuel economy too). For those of you who have a NM35 with 100k+ on the clock, I'd even carry one in the glove box just in case you are interstate etc. Cheap insurance!

So similar thing happened to me today in my NM35. I was driving the car to my old mans place, started fine and ran fine. Pulled up to the service station to fill up with fuel. Got back in the car (after paying... lol) and tried to start the car. The car would start but wouldn't run right for 5 seconds and then would stop. Repeated this over and over again with the same results thinking it would come good. The car would start, but wouldn't sustain the idle and would die. The engine check light was showing, but was along with other lights with the ignition on. Didn't tell me much at all. Checked all the fuses, and all OK. Fuel pump (barely hear the damn thing) was kicking over. So I pop the bonnet (after ordering the tow truck) and start some diagnosis and decided to unplug the AFM. Kick it in the guts and the damn thing starts, hunts around a little and settles in to a high rev. DRIVABLE!! Cancelled the towie (saved myself $156 FFS! and an hour long wait.) Tenderly drove the car to Nissan Glen Waverly to diagnose my suspicions. They knew me (as I have the car serviced there every second/third service to check the car over, check the fault codes, etc.) and they did the check for a substantial discount (were going to charge me $150), reporting the AFM was faulty and confirming my suspicions. The new one with the part number 22680-6N21A (as per on this forum) was quoted at $270.76+gst and one was potentially in stock at Melbourne depot. It was going to take overnight to come through (worst case). Called the M35 master (Scotty), who just happened to tell me he was going to be in the area and was leaving from his place!!!! I knew he was organising replacement AFM's, as we had a discussion about it when I got my 'scotty' dump fitted. He has one and can pack it and can see me soon. Shortly afterwards the man turns up and fits the damn thing and I'm up and running sweet as a nut! He even cleared the fault code from driving the damn thing without the AFM. Service! Thanks heaps Scott. Glad I called you mate. Was pretty funny having two Stageas in the Nissan car park, one with the bonnet up and a laptop plugged in. BAHahahah... Wonder what they were thinking? So I guess if the car wont start, unplug the AFM, enter into the world of limp home mode. Limp home and call Scotty!

Oh, so paying $160 to get a diff shipped from USA to Aus isn't an arm and leg? Add another $20-$30 from UK to that (based on SVS and not paying VAT)

Yes, but you pay an arm and a leg for shipment and then potentially GST/etc. when it comes into the country...

So where did you guys get your Quaife diffs from? Buy from the US or source local?

After fitment of the following to my M35 1. Power intake duct 2. Fujitsubo legalis cat back exhaust 3. Scotty stainless dump pipe On a recent trip I got 7.6L/100k. That was cruising down the Princes from Melbs to Bairnsdale (possibly with tail wind!) I was running United 100. Awesome! Had to re-do the calcs a couple of times! I've done similar economy on highway trips (down to apollo bay for example), not giving it the berries and taking it easy.

Typical Stagea owners. Can never stay on topic! This has nothing to do with VW Golfs etc. and whether your mum has one. It's about converting the M35 to manual!

Nothing wrong with the late model RB20! Bullet proof and you can stick heaps of boost on it and rev the nuts off it, and it will love every minute of it. Just needed more capacity for heavier cars! If you have limited budget, the easiest swap would be the VQ25DET, with factory ECU, and turbo. When you save a little more, high flow the turbo, dump pipe, inlet duct, fuel pump, injectors etc. etc. and run an aftermarket ECU or piggy back. If you can do most of the engine transplant work yourself, then the main costs are the engine half cut. Not sure if you need it to be engineered where ever you are, but you can argue the engine runs in a similar car of similar power with similar emissions, and the certificate would be fairly straight forward. Other option would be to wait for a second hand greddy/power enterprise/HKS or similar turbo kit to come up. Sometimes they do appear for reasonably good prices, but go pretty quickly! Expect prices to be around $6K though... depending on the kit. Otherwise, save your pennies and do it properly with an APS kit for the 350Z....

Why don't they put Daewoo badges on the Commodore? Most of it is sourced from OS anyway!

Yep, and then we sell off to a foreign owner because we can't support the technology, or there's more money involved if we sell off. So many Australian inventions are sold off to OS investors and before you know it, we own ZIP of the IP. CSIRO is doing nothing these days instead of the power house it was back in the 60's and 70's for example.

This! http://adriantout.blogspot.com.au/2013/12/interventionism-kills-industry-not-free.html High wages (Australia the 3rd highest 'average' wages in the world) "Keeping the lion in the zoo for too long" Central banks don’t want deflation. They want inflation. Hence all the 'control' by the big banks and the RBA. They want spending to try and reduce the deadly 'recession' we have to have...

Check out this post: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/436225-holden-to-cease-au-manufacturing/page-1

GM dropping a local brand? Hmmm nothing new here.. GM has approximately 14 different brands manufacturing in 36 different countries. Compare that to the powerhouse which is VW! (aside from the brands they bought) So how do we as Australians compete with "value adding cost competitive countries" AKA "Low cost regions" that have lower labour rates? Ship manufacturing off shore! Cop out if you ask me. Why do we let so many different brands into Australia IN DIRECT COMPETITION to our Australian made stuff? Yes I know the car sizes are large (we still made the cruze though). Same thing goes with food, clothing, white goods etc. etc. Electrolux Fridges were Australian made. I bought one and love it. It was approximately $150 more expensive than the equivalent Samsung. Patriotic, yes. Then I find out just recently it's more economical for these fridges to be made over seas in a "value add cost competitive region" where it's actually cheaper to ship boxes of AIR into Australia. Where's the logic in that? Shipping must be hella cheap coupled with the cost of the goods themselves. Just so the company can save that $150 and a few extra dollars and make some extra coin without an Australian manufacturing arm. We used to make TV's in Australia in the 70's FFS! Let's hope the free trade agreement with Korea allows our farmers to compete on a level playing field with all the other countries with tax free thresholds, subsidies, and benefits. Australia, please setup CSIRO, and any other department to assist with new and old technologies so we can remain cost competitive with QUALITY produce. I came from an American owned company who offshored Australian Manufacturing. I was made redundant mid year because of this. Not a good feeling and it's hard to wake up every day trying to find a job amongst news like this in a job market where there is less and less for particular skills. Might have to re-train and go back to Uni and learn something different... If you know anyone who works in the automotive industry (or any other industry for that matter) and who is going to lose their job, it's time to help them out. Spread the word to recruit some of these people in the companies you work, buy Australian made where you can, and realise being out of work isn't that nice and different people approach it in different ways. Support your fellow brothers and sisters, and hopefully we can get through this.

So apart from Rods, pistons and potentially a cam and headwork, what else needs to be modded for a "built VQ35DE +T"?