wht510

Yes the Axis rims! (Damn it!) I think I already have updated sway bars fitted from Japan. The car sits nice and flat. Pity the owner doesn't realise how PHAT the M35 is...

DIY Rocks. I arranged for some gutter rash along my LHS wheels today driving to work. Was going at speed limit, but thought I would corner at the speed limit too. Clipped a gutter getting the apex. Usually the 1600 would just lift a wheel, but this was a little bit more 'bangy'. Only a little bit of rash

Newb question. Is one of these the TV tuner? I know one of them is the ECU

Spotted Gillie? (or McGillie?) Red C34 on Burwood Highway around 9pm ish!

Edited for clarity...

WHAT HE SAID ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^

Stop looking everyone, i've fixed it. (Had the windscreen fitter come out and re-seal the windscreen) Sorry to anyone else who stumbles upon this post and realises there isn't an answer. Perhaps some else can chime in?

Isn't it Princes Hwy?

Is there something in the workshop manual??? (HAhahhaahah..... Sir, you headliner needs a service... )

It seems that way.

Wrong statement to make dude. What you should be asking is: "Next time it's raining, put your foot on the brake... let me know if it's any different to doing it on dry roads..." If i'm in the Stag, putting my foot on the "gas" doesn't make any bloody difference. I can plant my foot at the lights and all four wheels grip. I can feel a small amount of slip caused from that VN driven by the dole bludger dropping oil at the lights previous to me though, but usually it just grabs... The question i asked is ambiguous. There are so many answers to the question. There are so many scenarios. If you had read what I was talking about previously, you may have understood that I was questioning the 'conditions', and possibly suggesting the speed limit may have been too low on that stretch of road.

Do YOU really know what speed YOU should be doing based on the conditions of the road??? When I got my license there were half as many speed cameras on the road, traffic moved faster, there were less idiots driving under the speed limit and you actually got to where you were going on time. Perhaps the section of road Eastes was driving could possibly be changed to 100km/h (or WAS 100km/h) and therefore he would technically be only 20km/h over the limit. But I guess that wouldn't slow the traffic down enough and allow the police/speed cameras etc. to raise as much revenue. Wash, rinse ,dry, repeat. etc. I'm not condoning the speed which was done, just annoyed/upset with the IDIOTS who govern our roads. Unfortunately police and speed cameras are just trying to do their jobs to the stupid laws.

No worries.

Where's the love guys? Zei20L: Spares? Are they the right colour? I thought we have already been down this path with the centre console I wanted to get off you. Although I never got photos! I don't need a video, just a drawing, or some photos, or even some hints/tips/tricks? The hand rail has got me stumped. I can't figure out how to remove the covers on the ends! Anyone know how to do it??? Hints/tips/tricks? Door seal is easy. A pillar plastic cover is easy. All are already done. It's the other stuff I'm having trouble with.

Stupid thing is, I can't find out an easy way of removing these bits without damaging (or I'd rather know how to remove them without damaging them!) There's 2 screws in the sun visor, but that doesn't remove the catch on the other side. the hand rails have got me stumped. Do you remove the plastic covers either side and then there is screws/bolts through it?

As the heading suggests: M35 Stag with leaking windscreen on the top of the windscreen passenger side. I need to silicon it up. I know where it is coming from, but don't want to damage the head liner. Just wanted to know how to remove the hand rail and the little catch for the sun visor! Thanks!

Yes, Leather is good, Plus it's easy to clean up all the drool afterwards.

I did say my memory was failing me!! Their test sounds more aggressive. Really if you don't get the 'green fade', then it wont do anything.

Pretty good time for an overweight barge! What tyres are you running?

Driving around the street and bedding the rotors in are two completely different things. One you are just scraping the surface, and the other you are actually embedding brake pad material into the rotor which provides the stopping power you require and also 'moulds' the pad to the rotor (to some extent). Bed and bleed. Job done.

I suggest the MC is the right size. It's bloody huge My suggestion is to bed the brakes in. Somewhere on here is a procedure, but basically go to 80km/h and stop hard to 60, repeat around 6 times bordering on ABS engagement. Then 100 down to 40 twice bordering on ABS engagement, then cool slowly (drive around 60km/h with the occasional light brake pedal to slow and then speed up) Don't ever physically stop... otherwise you'll warp disks etc. I'm sure there are other brake pad bedding procedures etc, and my memory may be failing me. After you have done this, it should be good to go and your pedal travel may decrease Where the rotors machined before you got them or did you sand paper them before fitting? Where the pads new?

May have been me! Was it an Axis?

I tend to agree, but the rule is to make sure people who have NFI are doing the right thing and getting it certified. Again, it's safer to spend a couple of hundred dollars to get it checked and PROVEN it's safe, than to assume... I'd tend to agree if it was just bolting up larger factory brakes (Such as the V35 brembo type thing). Just make sure you use appropriate bolts and loctite etc.

Aaron, Make sure if you don't buy it from Nissan, you buy at least grade 8.8. Also make sure you get the right length.. The requirement is to see some thread coming through the other side and use Loctite (minimum 243) Stainless bolts don't have the tensile strength, so don't use stainless anywhere near things that hold brake callipers onto struts/A-arms. Remember, this is a safety system, so please be careful!

One thing Engineers ask if the dog bone would pass a 'destructive test' where the rotor is locked and a force is applied proportional to doing a 1G stop: Assume vehicle weight is 1800kg (perhaps with 2 occupants etc.) Single front wheel will experience a braking force of 0.8x 1/2 x 1800 = 720kg (0.8 is assuming 80% of braking force to the front brakes) Based on an approximate 600mm dia tyre the torque generated will be 0.3x 720 x 9.81 = 2118.96 Nm Assume disc rotor path is 298mm (outer dia and inner dia of approx 240mm), therefore mean effective radius is 136mm (rounded) This translate to a torque of (Fxd = Fxd = 2119x296 = F x 136) therefore F = 4612Nm at brake rotor radius of 136mm For bolt diameter calculations, don't forget there are two bolts, so divide this force by two to calculate the shear of the bolt and the approximate strength required and the revised radius of the torque acting on the bolts (smaller diameter...) The destructive test for the dog bone bracket should be done at 2x force for safety factor and 3 times safety factor and the results recorded. FEA is non destructive and would allow theoretical tests to be done without breaking anything. Your engineer can perform this task and include the data in the report. 316 Stainless wont have the same strength as 4140, so the requirements of 12mm at any point and 7mm min thickness wont be applicable to this material. If you are using factory brake calipers (from a larger or higher performing car) and bolting these on without dogbone adapters, then your engineer doesn't need to do the calculations, and therefore you save money when you get the certificate done! Safety first gents..