Kujotk

i might come watch with you shane....

lol i was surprised you rememberd we met lol, you were slightly off your face lol....

under age minors, they steal sound sytem and seats coz they dont know how to dissmantle anything else, cant put any thing else in there current car (or future car), and their parents would not allow them to keep a stolen car at their place.... even if they got caught nothing will happen to them, our great justice sytem is the ultimate "FAILBOAT"

saw same thing happen at the cross bout 5 months back, some random pegged an unopend bottle at a white r33 and it dented the crap out of it.... lazy scumbag pricks, and lol a trolley pole? if its the part of the trolley where you puch from then that would probably just bend on their heads lol, soft ass metal coverd in plastic, get club lock, can't ever be used aginst you if cops deem it to be unsafe aslong as you have the key for it in your key ring.... does allot more damage, also you get to lock your steering wheel up reducing the risk of bum joy riders from stealing your car.... the pros will still steal your car but joy riders are the main problem seeing as they drive it, thrash it and if they dont ride it off then you get a slightly damaged car with a gblown gear box to fix your self coz not worth insurance, atleast the pros make the car dissapear lol

drove with a series 1 r33 gtst up old northern tonight bout 10:30 ish, dark colour, thought he was a copper for a while coz he came out of nowhere and hung behind me for a couple of km's, then went in front and the electric stove top lights made me relax.... also spotted a r33 drive slowly past me at horsley drive at fairfield, number plates were familiar but cant remeber them now, also at the same time there was a p plater in front of me at the lights in a red R34GT flooring it to the next set of lights (bout 3 times)...

yeah didnt this happen like 3 months or 4 months ago?????

if your worried about defects just put it back to standard.... i'm on green p's and never been checked specifically for defects, i'm green p's, had the car for over a year, drive an r33 gts-t with exhaust that easily reaches over 90db and it also back fires when i change gears slowly, a pod, front mount and drive over 400km/week through sydney.... all just luck, also depending on the cop he can even defect you for an aftermarket exhaust thats under 90db if he wants to because of EPS laws and the car not being standard anymore.....

yeah donno about up your way but down here the 4 cent discount is basically useless.... they make it look cheaper by dropping 4 cents, but they increase the basic price by 4 cents compared to mobil and independents anyway, sol it ends up being the same price anyway....

no the rain oh well

i regards to the original post, just get a cheap Pioneer, got mine 4 years ago for $200ish... still kicking like new today, even better for you is the el cheapo pioneers for about $100 have everything i have in mine, plus it is ipod compatible and can read AAC files with no prob... thats what i would do anyway....

also related ive just noticed they are the same brand wheels as mine except mine are silver not polished, anyone know what they are....

I'm a skyline guy but i know a good looking volvo, i mean stagea when i see it, how hot is this... http://www.japanautodirect.com/auto.specsheet.cfm?id=2768

I didnt get any fault code, and my coil plugs were loose because the mechanic doidnt clip them in, the car ran fine for 2 day than i went over a speed hump and the problem started....

i got a japanese double din pioneer cd player (WITH MINI DISK SLOT OOOOHHHH AAAAHHHH) if you want, radio gets very boring very quickly, throw in a cd, its better.... also i got no use for it, just give me a yell if you want it

lol $500/second lol

also i really doubt its the exhaust at all, i ran my car for a bit of fun while chageing the front/dump pipe with no exhaust from the turbo back.... awesome sound, no shuddering, just sounded like a drag car...

yeah do the test codes thing but if it sorta sounds like a wrx when it starts shuddering its most likely the coils, could be simple like the coils clip isnt connected properly, thats what my problem was, i just opend the plastic cover concealing the coil packs on the engine and clipped them all in properly. also this may fit the reason why when you boost it goes away, you boost it, all the parts of the car that arnt fastend to the car in some way will move and this could mean that the connection is made again, its also better to check this now instead of later because ultimately this will damge the coil if it is a connection problem. then your up for $400 ish for a set of new decent coils. this worked for me but it could be many other issues aswell, coils could just be on the way out, even a sark plug that is fouled or dying ect.... but it sounds like something to do around that area anyway...

ALL sorted out, the boss amp was faulty, and my rca cable was shorting so thats why my original amp would turn on but not have any sound through the subs...

actually fixed thr problem today..... anyway I had no sound through the subs with my original amp.... bought a shitty Boss amp, the boss kept blowing the amp fuses (all 4 of them at a time),,,, couldnt work out why it kept blowing..... took it to a mate who used to install them professionally,,,, he went over the whole car and checked the vital stats, all was good.... threw in the boss amp again and it still blew all the amps, at this point my mate says the amp is rooted, take it back and exchange,,,, went back this morning and threw another boss one in, atleast this amp turned on ad didnt blow fuses. Still no sound from the subs, then got a big mo fo MTX thunder series mono block, hooked it up (boy was the mtx a rolls royce compared to boss), didnt work.... the amp was on but subs didnt work. then i slammed my r33 drivers door shut and the subs came to life, i opend the door and they stopped, did this 5 times lol.... i was so confused. Then i ran upstairs and grabbed myself some new rca's and threw them in, then it started hammering, the tunder MTX mono block suited my mtx 5500's perfectly even though it wasn't tuned, never heard my subs so smooth and loud before... then i took the old rca's out and had a look and oneof them was shorting as the insulation was cut... put some decent sony rca's (yes the sony rca's arnt as bad as the rest of their car audio stuff). Then i had a choice of spending $400 on an new mtx amp or see if my old one would work now.... long story short is i bought new amp fuses, threw them in my original luxon amp and it still worked, not as good as the mtx amp but good enough. This bloody Luxon amp just keeps on going, looks like it will out last me. But now i know what i'm missing out on, the clarity from the MTX amp was amazing, my 4 year old subs became brand new again. now i wanna sell my reliable Luxon amp and put the money towards the MTX. Anyone interested in a proven reliable 600rms luxon mono block????

thanks for the quick reply chris, but i dunno if i should drive the car up to brizzy lol, you not comming down for a holliday anytime soon are you? lol has to be a dead amp... just has to be.... i want my bass back....

supose you could get a longer bracket so the core sits further away from the fan and radiator, (assuming you have enough room in your front body kit..... Get an angle grinder and start shaving lol

does it make a differnce? who installed it? and is there someone here that sells parts for them? i only have the black box (the expensive part of it)

+1 for this aswell, this can be similar situation, i was told it could be my blow off, found out it wasn't for me anyway

when you back off and you say it "misses" how do you figure that out? most of them back fire.... also when cars warming up and the normal idle revs are high, it may flutter alittle because i read on the forums here somewhere that its electronically alterd to rev at about 1500rpm when cold and then it brings its way down to normal idle (should be about 700ishrpm). My idle used to jump around alittle and would sometimes stall at round abouts (very rarely). I cleaned the AFM, changed spark plugs and cleaned the throttle boddy. That got rid of most of the problems but i still noticed it wasn't a constant idle and would sometimes seem to miss. I didnt worry about it coz it didnt stall anymore. Then i changed the 02 sensor and immediately found that the idle prob was gone completely, just by chance, now i also save about $15 in fuel/ week by putting a new (EL Falcon) 02 sensor for $70. dont know if it would work for you but it did for me, so i figured for my car anyway that the idle changes were something to do with the car switching from running lean to rich because of the faulty original 02 sensor. They shoul;d be changed every 40000km nissan recons, if you are getting anything less than 400km/taknk with reasonable driving conditions i would definately get new 02 sensor, i get 450km/tank with pod, turbo back, 10psi boost, fmic with the new 02 sensor, where as before i'd get between 250-350km/tank

mine is a just jap stealth one, i had some help with mine aswell, basically on the r33 there were come prexisting bolts close to where the intercooler lined up to (not exactly right) so bolted one on and the other is cable tied. also at the top of the intercooler there was another bracket that fitted to where one of the horns was bolted to, this is also cable tied lol. For the thermal fan i had no problem, it is very close but doesnt touch my thermal fan. the intercooler doesnt weigh much and the single bolt can support it fine, i just threw the cable ties incase..... i check them every now and then incase they get weak... r34 and r33 are meant to be the same in regards to mounting fmic's..... well thats what just jap said to me when they gave me a box that said R34 on it....