corbic

Rods are still in the engine. So I can't get a surface shot to show how wide they are, only the side profile and top cap.

I have an RB25DET NEO from a Stagea. I'm told NEO's have RB26 rods. Are there identifiable casting numbers? Numbers I see on the caps is 14 - 0 (NISSAN LOGO) 3

I've been trying to do some research and there is not a lot out there. I've seen the following comments. RB25DE Neo (Non-Turbo) has a different head casting with smaller intake ports. The valve springs are "weaker" and the exhaust cam is different. Different injectors, 10.2:1 vs 9:1 compression (different Pistons) . I can visually see the intake manifold is completely different as well as the crossover and throttle body. I've seen a comment the DE block lacks piston oil squinters. Can anyone confirm the following? Block castings? (ie will a DET head swap to a DE block or something weird going on there) Crank? Rods? (I always hear the NEO DET has RB26 rods but have never seen a photo to prove it) IVAC unit? CAS? What is the Ring and Pinion for the AWD models?

As you can see the Pan's are completely different. The RB25 pan is a different bolt pattern and the axle tube + differential are mounted forward. The Axle is nearly touching the oil sump and there is an additional 3 inch gap between the differential flange and the end bellhousing plane.

Shims are unique to the GTR/Nissan. A local shop may determine that a longer sleeve is needed, but they are not going to be able to call up NAPA Auto Parts or a Nissan Dealer and pick up a sleeve. Also, looking at the FSM - it looks like there is a pressed on bearing for the Snub - sooo I doubt any shop is going to have a dummy bearing to get the initial depth without having to press on - press off the bearing a dozen times. $150/hr experimenting with all this is going to turn into a $2000 shop bill real quick if I went that route.

I'm state side, so while I have two great diff shops near by, neither is going to stock GTR/Nissan shims.

Did you swap the Ring and Pinion? How much a PITA Is it to shim the front differential. From what I can tell there is two thrust washer with 6 various sizes each for sides and two washers with almost 10 each options for the pinion depth along with a pinion sleeve that comes in 6 sizes. There is almost 1.65mm of depth tolerance stacking and with each of these washers/shims running for $5, that's almost $500 to get enough to play whack a mole with setting up the R&P pattern.

This is Rubbish information and basically screwed up my build plans. RB25DET (Neo) does not use the same AWD oil pan as the RB20. The Pan's do not swap. Bolt holes are not aligned. I'll have more photos when I pick it up from the shop. So to be specific as possible, since every thread I find about this information is vague and useless. 1989 GTS-4 Coupe - AWD - Turbo RB20DET 5spd Manual. Engine - RB25DET NEO - Stagea - most likely automatic car. Car in Question Engine RB25DET NEO AWD PAN RB20DET AWD PAN

What adjustment needs to be made when using this?

And pulling the engine means either separating it from the transmission, engine out the top with hood off, or dropping everything out the bottom by removing the front suspension.

Thanks

Is it possible to pull the oil pan with the engine in the car? I've not found any videos of photos of someone doing it.

What Clutch does the R32 GTS4 (AWD RB20DET Coupe) use? Seconding - if I swap an RB25 into the car, will the RB20's flywheel bolt to it, thus, not changing the clutch setup? Any suggestions for a 300kw clutch?

I listed a R32 GTR - "One member on this forum quoted 654mm and 622mm" GTS-4 uses the same CV's as a GTR. Not looking for 30 year old used. Numbers I listed above are all readily available new aftermarket and new OEM. A set of DSS axles is $2,800 + shipping + Tax. That's $4,200 AUD - I'm not making 1,000hp and that's stupid amount of money to fix one CV that was only $600 new OEM a year or two ago.

My right side rear Hal-Shaft / CV / Axle is buggered up and needs replacement. However, OEM parts are now discontinued and I'm unaware of any aftermarket / remain units. Worse yet, I'm located in the States. I can't find specs either on OEM length. One member on this forum quoted 654mm and 622mm - didn't know which side and I'm not sure if they measured compressed (Post from 10 years ago). Here's what I've cross referenced with the Nissan 32-spline + 6x1 flange. spline compressed mm side model 32 26 660 right 300zx tt 32 23.86 606 left 300zx tt 32 24.33 618 left 370z 32 26.3 668 right 370z 32 25.04 636 left q45 32 27.09 688 right q45

If DENSO makes the part then it's the OEM Toyota part - so buying it from a Toyota dealer is just a DENSO part in a Toyota box with mark up. Any reason people are not running R35 Coils? They are generally considered best on the market and only cost $60/ea. Yaris DENSO 6731306 - $52/ea R35 Hitachi IGC0079 - $61/ea PRP has a breakdown of the two coils in comparison. https://platinumracingproducts.com/pages/r35-coil-vs-yaris-coil-debate

Don't hack up the 26-parts, you can sell the sump, diff and trans for a pretty penny. Neo RB25 5spds are still available new and you can always grab a used RB25 Trans. They also make adapter plates to run a modified CD09 out of a Z33/Z34 and you can get bellhousings for the T-56 / Magnum.

Then just leave the car alone until you can afford to do it correctly.

Best bet is just to machine new ones from scratch or find a junk head with cam-caps. I don't believe the caps where ever available separate and it's not something people part out. It's less costly just to buy a whole new head then to find used caps and used head and try and match. Then you have to worry about clearance issues based on how much material needed to be removed. Used Neo-Head on eBay for $800. The RB26 Head was available for $900 for a while but is back to Discontinued. New ones are still floating around for $3-4k. 11040-05U00

Any other Nissan axles swap into the rear of a 1x5 R32? Boots are old and cracking, looks like Megan makes boots for S13's and S14's.

No idea how things have changed but about 7 years ago a friend bought the "Freddy" manifold for his RB25. He ended up having to do a lot of clean up and porting with a dremal, buying fittings for the water lines and the head ports didn't quite match up either. Ultimately he got it on the car and it likely worked as well as a Greddy however he said he it was a POS and would never do that again.

How about the RB20 AWD sump?