tridentt150v

Hard to do if your 'frame' is bent. If its badly bent then impossible until its straightened/repaired.

Failing the usual checks - google them.... There are instrument shops that can fix it, take it out and get it tested/repaired.

HKS blow off valve will sell it!!!!

If you take your front wheel off then unclip the inner plastic guard liner, there are a couple of rubber grommets on the firewall that have wires and the accelerator cable etc going through them. In their infinite wisdom, the jap workshops often slice these grommets to fit other wires for EVC and a/m gauges etc. This then creates a leak. Some Sikaflex will fix it.

There are 2 types of truckers: The big fat buggers with a wifebeater, tracky dacks and thongs, and, skinny little dudes with a pearl button shirt, Stetson and cuban heel cowboy boots.

Manual says:

That must have been an excruciating 1 hour and 21 minutes out of your life🤣

A good trickle charger or solar system 'floats'...so no there is no rule.

Mods....mods....mods.....

Mine, parked and on the solar:

Time to get a second opinion, go to another turbo/skyline/jap import type shop and get them to have a look.

I have a battery isolator as well, but a battery just sitting there slowly fades away, esp. in the cooler months. What happens is the battery plates calcify, this then stops the chemical reaction needed for effective charging and recharging. By trickle charging you stop plate calcification.

Best guesses: If the turbo was second hand, and the blue smoke [burning oil] only happened after the 'conversion' then the turbo's seal is shot. If the turbo was new or in good condition then they didn't install an oil restrictor for the turbo oil line.

Do what Gtsboy suggested though...keep the battery on a trickle charge. I use an Oddyssey PC925MJT in my R33 and it also [these days] gets intermittent use. But - so far - my battery has lasted 5 years cos its always hooked up to a solar panel and PR1210L regulator. I also wired in a blocking diode to stop night time discharge. I have a plug I use under the car and so every time I park it, I plug the solar lead into the car. The panel doesn't have to be a big one, a 5 to 10 watt unit will easily do the job. I use the same type of setup on my bikes, my excavator, and my mini dumper. The dumper has a Lister 2 cylinder diesel motor which has no alternator or generator so the solar setup was almost essential. Before I did this, I was going through batteries every 12 to 18 months.

Lol get used to being broke......

TBH....are you mad??? Its hard enough driving a modded Skyline when you are older and [dare I say it] have grey hair!!!! But driving one with 'P's' is insane, you will be pulled over and reemed by plod every time the clock strikes a new hour!!!

When you say cooler hose....You do mean air intake hose don't you? ie not radiator hose? Just to be sure! Check that you don't have a lazy pump?

Don't open the box!!! And yep mod away......redback spider gear stick knob is a good start.

Interesting...I thought I had a Mechanical Nismo Selective L.S.D. 1.5 diff?? I still have the box it came in in my shed, I will check it out tomorrow if I remember [too dark, too cold, and shed is too far to do it now]. Maybe it doesn't say 1.5?? I do know it chatters when you do a leftie around a street corner. But hooks up solid when you tramp it, quite confidence building to drive with.

Your 93 RON is our 98 RON, so don't get too hung up on that as an issue. Taken off the interwebz..... United States Vs. European & Asian Octane Ratings "In Europe 98-octane gasoline is common and in Japan even 100-octane is readily available at the pumps, but this octane nomenclature is misleading to Americans as foreign octane ratings are derived entirely differently from their own. So, like every other measurement system it seems that everyone else uses a different scale than the United States does, but unlike most other instances where we have had the good sense to create different units of measure(e.g., inch vs centimeter), in this case we all use the same name: Octane. Japan and Europe use a system called RON or Research Octane Number to determine the octane rating of their gasoline, while stateside we use a system called AKI or Anti-Knock Index to determine gasoline's octane rating. To further complicate things, the AKI system is actually derived from the average of the RON system and another more complicated system referred to as MON or Motor Octane Number. To recap, The USA's methodologies for measuring gasoline's octane rating are different, but share some common elements. With the commonality of RON in mind a good rule of thumb is: Multiply the foreign RON Octane rating by 0.95 and you will have the US AKI equivalent ( RON Octane Rating x 0.95 = AKI Octane Rating ) 98 RON Octane x 0.95 = 93.1 AKI Octane (US measure) 100 RON Octane x 0.95 = 95 AKI Octane (US measure) So, as you can see the 93 or 94 octane fuel we are all paying an arm and a leg for is actually quite comparable to the higher octane fuels found in Europe and Japan. The people whom have to worry about low octane rating are our friends out west in places like California that top out at 91 octane. 91 AKI Octane (US measure) = 95.5 RON Octane 100 Octane need from a non-US perspective is still quite high, though, as we are generally unable to easily obtain 95 Octane at the pump. As that number increases, it is more difficult to find it in unleaded variants as well. If your JDM car/engine calls for 100 octane, you'll probably be just fine running it on pump 93, especially if it retains sensors like knock and so forth which will pull timing if it's sensing detonation or incomplete combustion. If you're going to modify the engine, you should always dyno tune your car for best results and proper fueling."

That's the one thing that sold me on my R33, head room and eye level vision out the front screen was very good. I've sat in other vehicles where you have to permanently shrug your shoulders and your eye level vision takes in half the roof lining.

Hope this part is not true: "However, the interior was cramped—surprisingly so for someone like myself with my five-foot-nine stature. I must’ve had an inch of headroom at best. During the track portion of the press drive where it was compulsory to wear a helmet, I had to wedge my head under the roof to even fit in the car. Even without a brain bucket, I still felt a bit squeezed inside of the cockpit." Taken from: https://www.msn.com/en-au/motoring/news/nissan-s-2023-z-proves-that-design-and-history-overshadow-engineering/ar-AAXkyXh?ocid=msedgdhp&pc=U531&cvid=b1885017228f4a8bbccd331787e66ce0

Thats the trouble with making something too perfect.......you never want to ever loose that 'look'.

And de-rust the watermark type stains in his boot.

I'd probably go $150K given the mods, you can always come down!