Daleo

Daleo, Dale, NM35, Emu Plains, Depends on the week, (Shiftworker)

Really? I think they look tough, with a little lowering, they sit sooo neat in the guards. Offsets are perfect, wouldn't want more than a 245 tho'

I agree, the other alternative is staggered offsets, that way you can push the rims right out to the guards and you can still rotate tyres, they just have to be swapped on rims. The same width/ offset front and rear is much more practical, day to day. Personally, I think 18x9 or 19x9 with a +45 offset would be hard to beat for filling the guards and for sheer prescence. Don't know how you go legally tho'.

That is the item. The factory one is a very neat piece, I just used a piece of flat 1mm stainless, rolled the curve into it, tig'ed a lip around the edge, used a piece of pinchweld from Clark rubber. Rolling the compound curve was the hardest part of the whole exercise. It was the first thing I did when I bought my car, so I'm not sure of the gain, but too much cold air never hurt an engine . Nice induction roar tho'.

You can run staggered sizes as long as the ROLLING DIAMETER is the same, i.e; 245/45/18 & 275/40/18 have the same rolling diameter, accurate to .01%. Use the tyre size calculator on the site to check, sometimes it can be a real faff to get right. Seems like the +30 on a 9.5" might be a squeeze, if the stockers are a +45 8" Andy, was that +36 offset on an 8" rim?

Geniune, pfft. Genuine rip off... A little bit of your time, some pinchweld and some black spraypaint. Spend some time making something for your car, it's good for the soul. Save your money for petrol . Either that or eoi for stainless steel structure, tig welded, bolts, pinchweld, ready to fit; $100. The queue begins here, I'll post pics if people are interested.

A mate dropped around last weekend, saw the new car, "A Volvo eh? How does it feel wanting to run yourself down..." (reference to me being a bike rider as well). Said, "yeah, it's not a Volvo actually, it's a Nissan". Anyway after three hours of calling it a Volvo, finally spots one of the many Nissan badges... He does drive a Hyundai tho' Did concede that it was a pretty cool car, in the end...

Yeh, you're right, spotted this with my mates supra a while ago, and it locks up hard on the street, but it still had resistance. wouldn't free wheel. It's more just a simple rule of thumb. Definitely will be something oil related on the diff tho'

Jack one rear wheel off the ground, with handbrake off, rotate wheel. If wheel turns, no lsd. Friction from lsd will prevent you from rotating wheel. Good luck, hopefully more free lsd's will be found!

My RS has an lsd... Might be more common than previously thought. Seems to be varying spec levels across the different models, i.e. leather, 6 stack BOSE, nav, etc. No reason why this couldn't apply to diff, esp. if there is no ratio difference.

Sounds good, pick a time & place & I'll try and get there. Be good to see some other Stageas!

Hi guys, I have a few questions; 1: I know r34 GTR wheels go on nm35's with the wheelarch flares, (ARX, AXIS) but has anyone tried on an RS? 2: How much wider are the flares than standard bodywork? 3: Does anyone know the offset of the ARX 18x8" rims? I know the GTR's are 18x9" but I'm unsure of offset. Looks like a squeeze, but might work if not too low... Cheers, Dale

Andy, roughly what did you pay (if you dont mind me asking) for your Bilsteins and springs and where from? Regards, Dale

Reliability is is also maintenance based, any car will turn into a sh##box if you don't maintain it. I've never seen a car engine fail because it had too many oil changes. That and you can look out into your driveway and smile. Just make sure you do your research when buying. Good Luck!

The cost isn't the issue here. He's an absolute perfectionist, actually charging me less because he's not happy with the end result. It's actually the factory clear, car hasn't been resprayed. He's told me that the clear the factory apply in japan is not UV stabilised, and really suffers in aussie conditions, that's why i'm considering the flowcoat, plus it should be much harder. Just hoping someone might have had ok results with the factory clear after detailing... Mr Cali, his original quote was $400, but the service he provides is much like Meguiars type detailing which is somewhere around the $1000 mark, and upwards. Mine was just a love job really, heard about my car through a friend, was interested and approached me. Glad I gave it to him now, a run of the mill detailer would've completely stuffed it.

Hi, Just had my black nm35 stagea detailed, car was COVERED in scratches and swirls. My paint correction guy was tearing his hair out. He spent 24hrs solid on the car, reckons it has the softest clear coat he's ever seen. I remember seeing another detailing thread with a white 350GT, owner said the clear was very soft. It looks AMAZING right now, brilliant gloss, no swirl marks, just looks like glass. My problem is, it seems so fragile. Every time i wash it, I'm just going to put scratches on it. I'm actually considering getting my guy to strip the clear off the entire car and flowcoat the car and be done with it. Cost is around $1000. What are other people doing in this situation? Before someone asks, yes, my guy knows his stuff,and I do trust his word, works for a high end paint company. He does cars for Autosalon and Summernats, has had numerous cars win paint awards. Any help would be appreciated, Dale

Chris, my friend is back from holidays now, should have some photos for you in the next few days. Sorry about the delay... Dale

My mate is away over easter, can I get back to you about it?

Chris, a friend of mine has a s3 TI, white, stock as, paint needs a good cut, but is complete and all options still work, probably the cleanest engine bay I've seen in one, no rust in the usual spots, going cheap. Come from a 31 myself, there's a lot of common parts for upgrade. You're welcome to pm if interested. Cheers, Dale

Cheers, sounds good. D

For slotted RDA rotors, you're looking around $350 (retail) front and $240 (retail) rear, don't know part numbers. If you have contacts you might get cheaper, but even those prices aren't too bad.

Rda also do nice semi metallic brake pads, MUCH better than standard, not dusty Front; RDB1232SM (Listed as Maxima front pad) Rear; RDB1509SM (Listed as X-Trail rear pad) Around $30 per end, to be honest, wasn't expecting great things given the price. Quite impressed, good bite from cold, haven't hammered them, but no fade so far. (unlike standard pads, three good stops, no more bite)

Great stuff! I'll have to keep my eyes peeled when I'm out and about. Only one Stagea I see regularly, up at Winmalee. Cheers Guys!