Daleo

Threw a new pair of rear tyres on mine today; the new turbo definitely sorts out treadwear...

If a sump spacer is needed; I have JWT kit that a potential buyer is welcome to; $80.

Hmmm, I thought this would rear its head after the issues that you & Andy had. They have recognised that there were issues with the way they were dealing with their potential customers; in their own words "Our speciality is Carbon, not remembering to chase up customers and answering the phone" I think that's true for most specialists in motorsport; customer service comes second to the product. Especially with the experience you had; they were in the midst of 2 Superlap builds worth huge dollars, both to the customers involved, and to the future of their business and a showcase of their ability. I spoke with him pretty directly about your previous experience; and that is exactly why he is involved with them now. He believes that the issues from before won't be a problem, as he now manages that side of the business. Anyway, I'm putting it out there as it was a service offered to me; if people don't want to use it, or can't decide what they want, then so be it. It may happen that any Group Buy will come to nothing; but given my experience and track record, I thought it was worth a try... He can ask me all the questions in the world; I'm not particularly useful anyway...

The way you damage front bars; an Aero front bar is just going to end in tears.

Quoted For Truth Here endeth today's lesson.

Hey Guys, So I've been chatting with a guy who does some pretty interesting motorsport stuff and has some useful contacts in the relevant industries. We got talking about Carbon Fibre, and he has contacts that specialise in manufacture anything in Carbon. Structural parts, decorative elements, panels; anything. One offs, and multiples. Is there any particular accessories that people would like me to enquire about? I was thinking that if there was enough demand for specific things like ducts, trim pieces, bonnets, wings, or whatever, I could organise a group buy and save us a bucket of money. I know I'd like to have a raw Carbon Nismo rear wing, but I'm sure there's other things that people are after. Anyway, have a think about it, and let me know either through the thread, or by PM if you prefer. Cheers, Dale.

Possibly, maybe dealer fit?

I don't always PN-Mad, but when I do; I Daleo.

When we checked mine; the LSD din't actually appear.

It's interesting how this happens; your guy (and you) had to go through the learning process, and now there is more demand; the guys who put it in the "too hard basket" suddenly need a hand. I don't doubt you have plenty of your own cash tied up in the entire process Scotty; no way 200+ dyno runs is a cheap process. If your guy is good and interested; that is the ideal combination! Maybe it would be worthwhile him investing his time and effort, so that he can hold himself up as one of only a small number of tuners that can work on the M35. If you build it; they will come.

You guys did well to get everything back to N/A in a weekend. I will say this; it did sound sweet as you drove away yesterday, so not all is lost.

QFT.

What does abducting backpackers have to do with blown turbos?

+1, mine also maxes injectors, but mine doesn't max the AFM like your 3" bad boy. Due to the 2.5" bottom section; AM's probably doesn't max the AFM either.

It would still be worth consulting with Craig prior to you & your mate doing this job. I did my own, and there are plenty of tricks & tips to save you battling unnecessarily. Along with that, there are some specific tools that will save literally hours, and your sanity. Craig can have a turbo replaced, and the car running in one day; it took me over a day to remove the turbo from mine, because I didn't have a couple of specific tools. Once I had them, the part I'd struggled with for 5 hours, was off in literally 5 minutes. It's not a hard job; but it is not easy the first time.

I can't believe there's a place called Boompa! I bet it's a thriving metropolis...

I bet they didn't mark the position of the tailshaft, diff and gearbox flanges when they removed the tailshaft. I realise it shouldn't make any difference; but sometimes it does. The wobble in the brakes will be a front rotor with uneven pad material buildup. It feels like a "warped" rotor but it is actually different areas of the rotor having different amounts of friction. Machine the rotors, and it will disappear. Disc rotors almost never actually warp; it's a dodgy diagnosis if someone say it. Generally a worn wheel bearing will cause the brake problem.

Nissan will sell you a brand new one; just lob up to a Nissan dealer, and give them your VIN. You might want to take your own chair, because it's a good idea to be seated when they tell you the price. Highflow the stock one mate; it's the best option.

What's with everybody sig'ing me lately? I didn't think anybody listened to what I said...

QFT. I heartily recommend the Precision Turbochargers Sierra Stage 2; mine ran a 13.8 at Eastern Creek with basic mods, a stock intercooler, ecu, and fuel pump. It is the shizz.

Interested to see how it goes Ryan, at what point along the intake is the reduction to 2.5"? Leon, The extra length is additional volume effectively a "Plenum" area that the turbo can draw from, which doesn't hurt performance at all IMO.

I would imagine so, but it would pay to check first. If you measure the shells (front & rear), I can tell you what ones.

I really don't know; I never installed them. Also, Bronx had an issue with the bushes; the Stagea appears to have one pair of GTS-t bushes in the front, and one pair of GTR bushes in the rear. Definitely worth checking bush lengths prior to ordering.

That's 'cause I didn't put in any drawings.

For your viewing pleasure; Ok, due to the number of people fitting these at the moment; I thought I'd supply my rough adjustment numbers for initial set up. These numbers won't be ideal for everyone, but the aim is to have a ballpark setting to speed up the fitting process, as the fronts come set extremely low, and the rears rather high. You can then fine tune heights to suit your preference, or even go to corner weighting to acheive a perfect setup. Front; Free length of coilover assembly; 387mm from underside of top mount plate, to shoulder of lower mount (the part that makes contact with the forged mounting arm) Spring length; 195mm from underside of top mount plate to upper spring collar (the part of the collar in contact with the spring and plastic washer) This will give an approximate guard to hub centre measurement of 360mm Rear; Spring perch height; 45mm from the widest dia. of the machined perch to the outer spring collar (the part of the collar in contact with the spring and plastic washer) The spring perch faces down; so the measurement will be taken from the highest part of the shoulder to the lowest flat surface of the lower spring collar. You will still be using the rubber bumper from the spring cup in the lower control arm. This will give an approximate guard to hub centre measurement of 360mm The reason I haven't included ground clearance measurements is depending on rim diameter, tyre profile, and bodywork heights; these measurements will vary wildly if you're running 17x7s with 215/5517, versus someone running 19x9.5s with 265/35/19 and so on. My car doesn't scrape on very much at all and with 245/45/18's on 18x8 V35 rims; has about a 12mm gap between guard & tyre when looking in from the side of the car; which is about spot on for my eye. Have fun guys, and feel free to add any measurements and set up tips for others to benefit from. Cheers, Dale. FYI; the last set if fitted (Rosella's M35) had shorter springs than mine. They are now marked with a Blitz logo, and require at least another 10-15mm on the rear collars.