Hanaldo

S.E.A.R.C.H

Not sure about the start up issue, but as far as paying for a dodgy tune goes I would agree with you. It is really up to how ethical the tuner is I guess. When I first got my car tuned, I had a terrible fuel economy issue (was getting about 160kms to a tank, driving sedately). My tuner told me to bring the car in straight away, got it on the dyno and found that I had bumped one of the sensors while I was working on the car, unplugging it and sending the tune into the knock map. He reset everything and even altered the fuel map a little to give me better fuel economy, didnt charge me a cent even though it was my fault.

It's been discussed to death. R34 VCT is on/off. Obviously a 25DET Neo and a 25DET are going to feel different, there are lots of differences between them.

17 or 18 inch would look good, staggered fitment with 8.5's on the front and 9.5's on the back. +27 offset would fill the guards without sticking out, but it depends how much you lower the car as to whether it causes scrubbing issues.. +35 would sit inside the guards a bit more, looks crap though IMO.

I believe front/rear upper camber arms suit both R33 and R34's, as do traction rods. Not sure on castor kits.

Yep ^ R33 suspension will fit an R34 GT, as they still use the eyelet type rear mounts. Won't fit a GTT though.

Yeh when I got my GTR wing painted, the cheapest guy I found was an old bloke working for himself, $200. All the bigger workshops wanted $500+. They'll charge you an arm and a leg if they can. That's why I learned to use an air gun and now spray everything myself. Resprayed my bonnet, fenders, front bar and rear bar for $120

Lol no I know, it was a hypothetical situation. All other things being equal, boost is relative. Higher boost on one turbo could still be less air flow than lower boost on another turbo. You can't just say nup, 20psi is too much for this motor. If anything, you could say running 20psi through this turbo is creating too much power for this motor. Which I imagine is what the mechanic/tuner in this case was getting at. This lol. Who honestly drives around at 20psi all day everyday in top gear? I might give my car full stick in 1st, 2nd, maybe 3rd and by then I'm breaking every speed limit in Australia. On the track I'll get to redline in 4th, but that's where the quality of the tune makes the difference. Anyway, good to see another positive result from Hypergear. Makes me hopeful that I can sort out whatever gremlins my car has and see the promised result

Auto1 and autopro are the only similar ones that I can think of... Dunno if they do paint matching. *edit* or there is autobahn, but they are a servicing garage and I'm sure wouldn't have anything to do with it.

Boost is not a measure of air volume, which is what is important. I could put a tiny turbo on my car, run it at 25psi and make 100hp. That's not going to stress the motor. On the other hand, a TO4Z at 10psi is probably going to be a bit more stressful. My point is, power and poor tuning kills motors (relatively speaking). I can't see how boost alone would have any affect what so ever given that what affects the motor is the volume of air going in, not the pressure. Your engine would be drawing more air at 15psi under full load in 4th than it would at 19psi at 3500rpm in 2nd.

Thought it was you I was in my mates XR5T, spotted you at the traffic lights at Morley Drive.

How does boost have anything to do with the reliability of the motor? It is a measure of restriction.

Spotted a white R34, Top secret front bar and black GTR wing, on Tonkin Hwy at about 6:30pm last night. Looked good

Yeh aerosol paint will never be strong. If they are your daily wheels, I'd recommend powdercoating. If you are planning on getting new ones, don't bother.

For the sandpaper, forget the 150 grit and replace it with 400. 150 is too course, I would only use it to remove a lot of material. When painting, all you are doing is roughing up the surface to give the paint something to grip on to. If the wheels are in relatively poor condition then start with some 240 just to get the imperfections out. You want to spray the 400 to get the best finish, so if the wheels are in good condition then just rough up the surface with the 400 until it loses it's 'shine' and takes on a matte appearance. Make sure you do a really good job of that. Then it's ready to spray. As for the paint, make sure it is metal paint. Primer is probably unnecessary unless you sand all the way through to metal, you don't need to prime the old paint. Up to you though. But here's the thing: DO NOT LET THE PAINT DRY BETWEEN COATS. The reason for this is there are essentially two forms of paint bonding, physical and chemical. Physical is what you just achieved with the sanding. It is not as good as a chemical bond. If you let the paint dry, you will need to sand it again to make sure it bonds. What you want to do is let the paint dry to the stage where it becomes sticky to touch but is not completely wet still. So spray the first coat, and then use the overspray on the newspaper to gauge how dry it is. Will probably take about 5 minutes to get to this stage. Then spray the next coat. I would do 5 base coats, and then move onto clear coat. Again, don't wait for the base coat to dry before spraying the clear. Do the same as above. I would do 3-4 coats of clear. Good luck Eh

VHT mate. I actually repainted them with the exact same paint I had before, the finish doesn't change much. Obviously it loses a bit of shine, but if you do it right then it lasts.

Ok, so pics as promised... I decided to use a 120 grit flapper disc on a 400w power drill instead of the angle grinder, as angle grinders and dye grinders are a bit too aggressive and end to take large bites out, making it difficult to get a nice finish. The flapper disc worked like a charm, albeit taking about 20 minutes of solid grinding to do each caliper. When the letters were gone I just hit the calipers with some 400 grit sandpapers to smooth them out, and the paint came out as you can see in the photo. This is just after I started, I remembered to take a picture before I took anything more than paint off: And this is the finished product: This is the exact look I was going for so I'm very happy with it.

Damn it, did someone delete the link to Amazon? I can't find it... Help?

Don't forget Jason and Socs! You did a great job guys.

I knew it! Fkn lol You have put said pretty lady on a pedestal and hence you will never have her. If you see her again, demand sammiches and bewbs. Not necessarily in that order.

Yep they are exactly the same. When I swapped in my turbo motor I took the splitfires off the NA and put them on the new motor.

Speaking from experience... Wise choice *EDIT* I paid $4000 for my full donor car... Engine I would expect to pay around 2.5-3k for, depending on kms.

Top feed, high impedance but different to R32's.

Get a retune?

KYP regularly import engines and half-cuts from Japan. If they don't have one in stock then they will go find one and bring it back. Few other workshops like JPC do that as well I believe.