scotty nm35

Do you have the lower chassis brace though Martin? That is where the chassis flex mainly occurs, and nissan remedied this on the series 2 coupes.

Mmm, I don't know if the K+N is a good idea, it could be worth cleaning the afm, just in case the oil from the filter has coated the hotwire. Usually the intake starts sucking shut around 200kw, you can either stick a small piece of 3 inch stainless pipe inside it by cutting where the corrugations are and clamping it, which will help a little, or I can supply a nice 80mm custom alloy intake that will allow any power your setup can make, and fit up to the stock bov/breather/afm. Don't bother with the silicone intakes on Ebay, they are worse than the rubber ones.

What did you do, swap them with known good ones? Have you pressure tested the intake?

The single would be a fair bit quieter I imagine. I scored the Nismo twin tip, I will be dropping from the 3.5 inch back to 80mm and a quieter system, hopefully with a lack of drone. It's worth it I think, even if It drops the power a bit.

Consult port works with the Greddy informeter and many other units. But hey, giving up is much easier.

The best note by far, and nearly legal noise. Great quality system Tom. Which Nismo do you have Brick? The Single outlet? Or the twin highflow one Fujitsubo made?

It all looks pretty clean, other than the intercooler piping. Could be coming from the rocker breather or the turbo seals. Running a catch can will rule out the rocker breather, try it for a few days just venting under the car and see if the oil stops. Best if you clean the intercooler and piping so you can see if it is still filling with oil. If it is, it may point to a turbo drain problem, which isn't too hard to check anyway.

After pouring over the Kanji DD skyline wiring diags, and realising there is absolutely nothing similar with the ecu (other than the connector) or the Re4 transmission controls, and not being sure the 'can' system would even communicate, we came to the conclusion the det ecu won't work with the 4 speed, and the DD ecu won't drive standard injectors, (or Emanage) without extensive rewiring/modification. It seems to be a big can of worms, around 200 wires to reroute and no guarantees it will work. I think the turbo would have fit, but required custom cooler piping, as the starter motor is 3 inches higher. Also tapping turbo feed and drain fittings into the RWD sump was needed, as the RE4 and RE5 bellhousings are different. The engine mounts were 4 inches closer to the engine, meaning the turbo intake would need to be custom made. The chassis was different, and the Stagea front subframe wouldn't bolt up. This would mean major chassis mods, cutting parts off the Stagea wreck and swapping them onto the Skyline to remedy. This would make the car defectable. Possible for a track car, but obviously not a road car. Sad to say it, but it is just cheaper and easier to buy a Stagea Mark... You know you want one...

Damn shame, I was looking forward to skids. Would have worked if you wanted a 6 speed manual...

There is one regulator and two fuel dampeners, the reg is the one on the return side of the rail.

Nice fix.

Let me just say, there are so many differences between the engines, chassis and ecu/loom that I am worried this will turn into a nightmare. I had no idea it would be this much work. Hopefully it all goes as planned but it will take some time, anyone know Kanji?

The ecu knows the correct speed, but the dash displays it incorrectly on purpose. Putting larger rims and tyres on it will help a fair bit. You can also use your gps speedo app, or buy an ecu reader that displays speed, like the Greddy touch or the HKS OBlink.

Are you about to tune the car? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?

HKS make a Vcam kit, have you looked into that?

If you do the rear main without dropping the sump you will find out the hard way, it's not a good idea... Then once the job is done and you have a weeping seal, you will need to rip the engine out and gearbox off again to fix it properly. As always, don't change what isn't stuffed.

No, sorry Andy. I have never seen that fault before. I would be trying a new cluster first up, I assume the fault would be in the dash.

Will be the best way, and run some fake hoses to somewhere, so they look like they are connected to something, otherwise you could get defected easily. If you unplugged it you would throw an error code (on the stock computer) but I assume the Nistune can fix that in the software.

Gauges can come in handy, especially as the stock ones are fairly crap. Have you looked at the Greddy Informeter or similar ECU parameter readers? They can be had fairly cheap S/H. But if you want the lit gauge look, try the Prosport range, good value for money.

My mate used to own that track, I have punted many race carts around it. Bit short, but meh, free carting is free.

But he already has a beanie, so it's a total waste of cash. I would only ever recommend it for mild steel exhausts to prolong their (short) life. DEI Beanie and DEI Ti wrap the dump (for stainless) is the best shield against heat I have found so far, and I have used most other styles of heat barriers.

It will be louder... I would go 3.5 inch on the dump, and taper it back to 3 inch at the cat usually for that sized turbo. (unless you want to run 3.5 the whole way.)

Its a very common issue actually, the compressor shits itself, pieces go everywhere through the lines, and once the new compressor goes in it's rooted instantly. Rushing a job like that and not checking/cleaning the lines can cost you more than double...

Sounds like overspray time... You need ventilation and airflow away from the car.

Autobarn told me they can do it, came out purple. lol. Sooo... Didn't buy the tin they mixed up.