scotty nm35

As Alex mentioned, the shift kit fixes the mechanical side of the shift, but the auto ecu is still an issue. Sometimes at full throttle the gearbox will shift hard but the engine isn't on power yet, this can cause a slight clunk. It doesn't happen very often. At light load the shifts are quite gentle.

I have one here if you need one Albs, It could be there overnight if it's urgent.

Pin 44 is the neutral switch input to the ecu, perhaps that is a good feed to splice in to...

Considering there are thousands of threads on the subject and even a few "How to's" I would have thought a quick google search would give you the answers you are looking for... Walbro pumps don't like sucking fuel up a hose, you need to fit the pump lower.

Mount the pump lower?

No worries Leon. I know a lot of guys read this thread and have a crack at it themselves, make sure you are cutting the pink/blue wire on the ECU and not the TCU as the gearbox controller is in the passenger kick panel. You will need to remove the glove box to get to the ecu plug.

No, they are 14mm.

It certainly sounds a lot better than before. Glad you are happy with the work Sam.

There is a good chance the plugs are shot, after all they are 10 years old. The o2 sensor can be easily tested for correct operation. Perhaps the injectors need a clean also? I highly doubt your km's are correct, looks like the importer got greedy with the odo trim.

Pin 55. Pink wire with a blue trace.

^ This. How is the manifold the smallest cross sectional area Stao? It is a lot easier to repair/replace a housing if the weld ever fails too.

There is plenty of room under the airbox for a catch can. The stock fan is noisy because it is moving a lot of air. Have you seen the blades? A decent thermo will make more noise again and use more energy to flow less air. The series 2 M35 uses two large thermo's but it doesn't run as hot either. The water pump runs off the main cam chain, and provides an idler function. You can't remove it or your engine won't run.

You need to get the codes read again. Nissan would have read every code logged since the last ecu reset, so now it will just be the sensor error responsible for the stalling. Changing every sensor without diagnosing the fault is just crazy. Nissan just want all your cash. Drop in if you like and I will check the codes. (free of charge) You can decide what you want to do after that. I don't imagine it's very safe driving it far, the way it is atm.

VQ chains rarely stretch, unless the oil feed is blocked. You would hear the chain noise a mile away in that case.

Nuwan is giving you a warranty? On what? I can't diagnose it over the interwebz mate.

You sort of need the timing chain... Why would you need to rip the pump out? The stock fan provides way more flow than any thermo setup...

I worked through the wiring diags and found the brake wire, instant skids on a 3L DD v35.

I has drugs... Drop around Dave.

I have had a few new Garrett's running high boost levels, the main issue with BB cores is they require good clean filtered oil, most of the failures I have seen relate to oil quality issues and oil restrictor blockages. Bush cores are more resilient to contamination but also require much more oil flow or they will flog out quickly.

Unless VQ.

Yeh mate, 6 burner + Teriyaki hotplate + wok burner, with a side sink/chopping board. Runs twin gas bottles. lol.

   Misfiring isn't only from increased pressure in the cylinder, it is caused by excessive amounts of fuel also. If they are running good AFR's in the top end and cylinder pressure is under control they should be able to run 1.1mm just fine, if not the coil packs may be flogged. You are right, plugs do wear slowly. If they are wearing fast you may be overheating them, perhaps try a BPR7.

You offering Aaron? Bring some around and I will fire up the new barbie.

I have good quality black joiners cheap, always in stock too. Are they metric or imperial anyone know the size?

Miss firing = fuel in the exhaust manifold = boost spike. Good news Aaron, are you happy or sad?