scotty nm35

Worth an extra 10k though? I would rather the turbo still...

As far as I know none of the turbo Stagea's had transponders in the key, so it should be fairly straight forward. I can't stand the Audi flip key personally.

Definitely, my tune went to crap and all I had was a tiny split in the Map/Reg vac hose.

At least you know where the plugs are now.

The stock Garrett core will have a restrictor built in so it shouldn't pose too much risk, that said the VQ runs stupidly high oil pressure, I have seen 10 bar on my gauge which I think is it's limit...

Was it tuned with 10L of 98 in the tank perhaps? Most of the pump setups I see fail to completely empty the tank...

With a bush core, yes. I would have drilled it to no more than 1.5mm for the stock turbo personally.

Sounds like a well sorted setup then. Pressure to the top is the key...

I have a 3 inch dump, and 2 inch off the 45mm gate. As long as they flow well and merge gradually into a 3.5 inch free flowing system you should crack 400kw with it fairly easily. Mine would be making that if I had a manual box...

When you launch there is only one way for the oil to go, down on to the turbo. (unless you have a DD?) I find it fairly easy to get to the plugs, you only need to drop the intake/bov pipe... Get into the Stagea section above ^^ there is plenty of reading for you to do.

At what boost? 7psi is fark all spring... I am running 26psi of spring, and after a few track days the tension has dropped back, now it only runs 19 psi off the spring. If you plumb pressure onto the top of the gate also you should be ok either way, mine easily runs a flat 32psi now with the 5 port Mac.

I rebuilt my engine and valve body a few months ago, what makes you think a turbo would be difficult? I have a lathe here to machine the housings for highflow and a milling machine for the wastegate. Anything is possible with ingenuity. I wouldn't recommend it to anyone without a mechanical background... Just have a chat with Hypergear.

Tomei crate motor would decimate all... Or simply hit up Rips for one of their 3L motors.

So why did you get the banjo drilled to 3mm?

Then you must live with the boost drop I think, what rear housing are you running?

It is quite common to have a slow leak into the plug well, it doesn't affect the engine at all as oil is an insulator. To properly fix the leak you will have to replace the whole rocker cover (around $250) as the seals aren't replaceable, or you can attempt shoving silicone around the plug tube/seal. The rocker gasket will require replacement also while you are there. This would also explain the oil burning smell when you turn the heater on. Did you pull a plug? The last set I changed for someone had a 3mm gap. lol.

A free flowing exhaust would just make it worse I think. You need to increase the wastegate actuator spring tension to help hold the manifold pressure in. What is your base (minimum) actuator pressure?

This jogged my memory to post up these pics of the VQ25det plug, DD plug and whatever plug the last mech installed into the 25DD I have here.

You could assemble it yourself with that kit if you could find the tolerances, but you would still have to pay for the VSR balancing. Easier to just give it to Stao and have him build, balance and warrant it. Sometimes, when the turbo seizes in operation it will twist the shaft and require replacement. He could also modify the thrust washer for less friction or enlarge the wastegate and puck if internal gate, and if you want more from it add a billet compressor wheel.

I have a few but none fit down (or up) there properly. I can do it in a minute or two now with my cut down 22mm open end spanner though. I fitted Whiteline diff bushes in my car today, quite cheap to buy too. It made one hell of a difference too, all the axle tramp is gone and it chirps nicely between gears again, it really tightened the whole back end. My original rear diff bush was totally flogged and was leaking oil.

Hypergear.

Do you have a highflow Rudi? Will MRC be tuning Stageas?

Agreed, great job. Needs more sticky...

How would that bolt up? Stick to tractor motors...

Has anyone tried to adapt VQ25det coils for use on an RB?