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scotty nm35

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Everything posted by scotty nm35

  1. scotty nm35
    At least my car runs... Need a lift Dave?
  2. scotty nm35
    I call them OLD skylines.
  3. scotty nm35
    The hassle with any automation of this mod is it can take up to 10 seconds to reset I think. I have another idea on how to do it but I have to design a simple circuit first.
  4. scotty nm35
    The early ones.
  5. scotty nm35
    PM'd.
  6. scotty nm35
    People generally don't like what they don't understand, and many mechanics are the same. If you can find a good example with low k's I would go for it, great car for the money. Personally I would go for a series 2 manual, or have you looked at the v36 also?
  7. scotty nm35
    There have been long term e85 tests on Walbro 255's with no issues, but then the 400L fails within a few months. It's the reason they released the e85 version. I have been running my pair of Walbro 255's for nearly 4 years on e85, daily driven, without a problem so you would be fine. Remember all fuel system components are designed ethanol safe these days as unleaded is 10% ethanol anyway.
  8. scotty nm35
    The tight wad option is to punch the cat's out and ignore the light. I could make them from stainless but like I said, the high flow 100cpsi cats alone are $300, plus getting stainless flanges laser cut. There is no way anyone could do them locally for under $400 unless they cut major corners, as CNT must have done do deliver them for that price. Tried the wreckers?
  9. scotty nm35
    Not much good for anything else. Was it a 2004 model, or rusted chassis?
  10. scotty nm35
    The pinking (if that's what it actually is) would be caused by timing if you have been screwing with the CAS and not timing it properly. Stick the stock reg on, check timing with a light using the plug lead method, not the wire loop, then look at the injectors.
  11. scotty nm35
    How did you set up the reg? It could be the source of your issues. Do you have the stock one to put back on?
  12. scotty nm35
    http://www.schnitzracing.com/manuals/AEMWBK.pdf Page 9 of the manual states that P4 on the rotary switch is 0-1V output. I thought it had narrowband simulation built in... Try it out...
  13. scotty nm35
    PN mad's idea would be the best option.
  14. scotty nm35
    Sorry, I just checked and they only have the 5v output it seems. You can possibly find a circuit to drop it to 0-1v narrow band simulation...
  15. scotty nm35
    Great result, but that head must be close to lifting... Keep an eye on the coolant overflow...
  16. scotty nm35
    AEM has a set narrowband output, just no adjustment.
  17. scotty nm35
    I have seen failures and also car's stalling/running shit when wired to the factory wiring, they are supposed to run on 12V minimum, any less can cause the windings to burn out or pressure fluctuations. Nismo/Tomei pumps seem to run fine on the lower voltage, as do stock pumps. Most aftermarket pumps require the wiring mod.
  18. scotty nm35
    Now we come to the crux of the issue. Manufacturers have been installing longer o2 bungs for years to get around the rear temp sensor throwing a code, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. You can trick the sensor directly instead, using a resistor I am fairly sure.
  19. scotty nm35
    Or simply weld another bung in? Which wideband are you using?
  20. scotty nm35
    Needs more AWD auto, I can hook up wot in 2nd in the wet with crap tyres.
  21. scotty nm35
    The Walbro needs to be wired to the battery through a relay and fuse, there is a 'how to' around if you search.
  22. scotty nm35
    Don't like it when Stagea's overtake you?
  23. scotty nm35
    Get the o2 feedback working again.
  24. scotty nm35
    For $400 you will get what you pay for. (considering decent cats are $150 each) Good luck with that.
  25. scotty nm35
    It's around turn 6 i'm sure... Let me just get out on the track and check...
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