scotty nm35

It will most definitely throw a code, as the wastegate will now hold 15-16psi and the car when cold is expecting no more than 7-8psi. You can perhaps just pull the plug off the boost sensor and stick a bung the hose to stop that one. The other code is the same one I get, it is saying the throttle pedal sensor isn't within spec, and it limits the throttle. You can actually still drive like that, but you have to put your foot to the floor to accelerate a little. Do you have cruise control or a throttle controller plugged into the pedal harness? Otherwise you will need a new pedal assembly to replace the sensor, $220 I think from Amayama or $400 from Nissan.

The codes are stored in the ecu, even when you restart the car. Sounds like the pedal sensor.

I run eflex occasionally on long runs, I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. I think it's only around 4% richer than United I worked out. Still more accurate than a carby.

I did a cable throttle conversion and tuned it with the emanage, it worked well, you will lose variable cams though. Very laggy.

Still here, PM'd.

^^ and be stuck with 4 gears most of the winter. It won't work well like that at all without a thermostatically controlled fluid supply or hiding the cooler away with a thermo fan. (not a good option) Keep the radiator fluid 'warmer', as the trans would never get near the engine temps without it anyway. An oil cooler will not cool the water temps down too much, and the hassle with loading up the cold air space in front of the radiator is it then gets a gutload of hot air as it has already passed through multiple coolers before the radiator, making the problem worse. I agree an oil cooler is a good idea if you plan to track the car, otherwise it is a liability. If you do a few searches, you will see a common trend, VQ's are a bitch to bleed and missing only a cup full of coolant can be enough to airlock the system, pushing water temps through the roof. Many an engine has been lost this way, mainly due to the poor design of the cooling system.

You will most definitely need an auto radiator, but a 350z alloy unit will not fit. The neck is on the opposite side for a start. You could perhaps run a G35 radiator from the US like a few of the stagea guys run, but this won't fix your overheating issues. Do some research in the Stagea section, I and many others have had this issue for a while, and I have eventually had to design a mod to cool the block separately. I call it the VQ coolant mod, to help you search.

The RE5 box's downfall is the Transmission TCU, it is the reason the shifts take so long, not the actual gearbox. I just wish someone had cracked the TCU to speed the shifts up, or even replacing the TCU with a programmable unit would be great but nothing is available as yet. The TCU adjusts line pressure based on pedal position, so if you floor it the gearbox will shift as hard as it can, this is much harder with the Transgo obviously. Did Craig do the install? What fluid did you use?

I bought the drivers seat first, then they stopped selling them. Haha. I had to buy a crappy second hand one to make the pair.

If you have a VSR balancing machine at home it could work, or just get Hypergear to highflow them.

I think they are discontinued. lol. There are some red ones left by the looks of it, for sale on fleabay. Remember to add the cost of the rails, or try and find some s/h ones somewhere? Just make sure the rails suit the seats you end up getting. Here's the Bride rail chart. http://www.bride-jp.com/images/download/cartype-table/nissan_120327.pdf

I would say the Hicas is playing up, damn wobbly wheels strikes again.

The question is, are the Brides worth the money with the copies around now. You are talking $2500 a seat here, and you need a very small arse to fit into them. Imo if you want comfort, look at some 34 GTR seats, or get the cheaper Euro 2 Brides, which are essentially 34 copies. I did.

At least you can adjust timing. lol. Get rid of the SAFC, please.

10.2mm works perfectly, but more important is the oring size. Did they work ok with just the outside diameter reduced? Why can't ID get it right? The EV14 kits I sell fit perfectly, no spacer under the rail and the adapters drop straight in with a secondary filter in the top. (the Bosch injectors have a filter but it is impossible to remove)

Yeh, the standard airbox just doesn't cut it. Oh wait, that's what I run...

He quoted you for the complete pump assembly, because retard.

The problem with our auto is that it needs to be up to operating temp before it works right. If you go removing the line from the radiator or cooling the fluid to a more sensible temperature, it will drive like crap, or worse never drop in to 5th. The way I got around it was to cut the two temp signal wires at the TCU and drop varisters over them. This tells the gearbox it is already at operating temp, allowing me to cool the fluid as much as I like and the bonus is it doesn't go into overheat limp mode on the track anymore.

sorry, just realised it was a DD. I wonder if the mechanical fuel pump is on the way out, that would explain the excessive cam chain wear.

The cam tensioners take a fair while to fill with pressure once re-assembled, that would have been the noise you heard. Nothing to worry about unless it doesn't go away. The workshop manual says to rev it to 3k and hold it for 5 minutes to bleed the tensioners. The valve gear has solid buckets, some are shimmed and some aren't. If it's hard to start, try a new battery first. If you still have issues, is there an engine light up? Most of the faults will throw a code.

I went back to a stock stall converter, no hope of boost off the line for me, most of you would have me by 3 car lengths at the start while I crawl away. But I would drop the high stall back in, just to upset Craig, if I was coming up sometime.

It's only farting, it should still drive well.. Just block it off like I mentioned if you are worried. When's the tune? It's about time I ran mine, but Calder is closed at the moment. Nearest drags is Heathcote, 3 hours away. I may as well drive up for this.

The headlights were unfortunately correctly complied, by gluing a shitty piece of metal into the light so a dodgy halogen lamp could be retrofitted. I can't believe that passes ADR's while the HID's don't. I assume the ballasts are still in the headlights though, I should have a look to see if they damaged the wiring or removed them. Anyone have a pic of where they hide?

The pedal sensor was removed and fitted to another car months ago, I wish I had kept it now. Nissan wanted $400 for what is essentially just a trimpot, you can only buy it with the pedal as an assembly.

PM'd.