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scotty nm35

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Everything posted by scotty nm35

  1. scotty nm35
    I has sensorz, and I wouldn't charge $700 to change them... Or $3600.
  2. scotty nm35
    Lol. There goes our insurance premiums...
  3. scotty nm35
    Deposit Paid.
  4. scotty nm35
    I tried to remove the M35 rear shafts today with no success. I will get Sam to help tomorrow mate. Get them to you soon.
  5. scotty nm35
    Maths fail.
  6. scotty nm35
    The answer is still no. Side feed.
  7. scotty nm35
    The billet compressor GTX range has the potential to make more power than the cast compressor GT series turbo's, they do this because they are more efficient at higher pressure ratios, meaning they can run more boost. If you plan to stay under 20 psi go with the GT, over 20 go with the GTX imo.
  8. scotty nm35
    Side feed. 14mm injectors will require an aftermarket fuel rail, around $150-$200 extra.
  9. scotty nm35
    It looks like the speedo drive for a speedo cable, perhaps the early 33's ran a mechanical setup? Otherwise it could be an re4 from the 32?
  10. scotty nm35
    Series 2? It is the same sensor as the r34 so I guess it's the same on yours. Here is the original thread with repair pics. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/297345-m35-factory-boost-gauge-repair/?hl=%2Bm35+%2Bboost+%2Bgauge#entry6208183
  11. scotty nm35
    You can see the clip slots, use a small flat screwdriver. I have a spare one here when you fluck it.
  12. scotty nm35
    Get a can of elbow grease from the auto parts shop.
  13. scotty nm35
    Sorry, cleaned some messages out. I haven't had time to remove it yet buddy.
  14. scotty nm35
    I have a spare stock one here if you want to replace it cheaper... Or just do the HDI.
  15. scotty nm35
    I made am extra 3kw, but how much was the fuel and how much was air temp/humidity? It is very hard to compare dyno figures at the best of times. You won't see the knock threshold in the top end on e85, it is past the maximum torque point so it's pointless to push that much timing. As for afr's, I had mine cruising on 20:1 the other day and it just felt a bit doughy, no pinking.
  16. scotty nm35
    Personally I wouldn't be mixing fluids, Use the Matic J unless you are fully flushing the box or installing a Transgo kit.
  17. scotty nm35
    Yer right... Strange...
  18. scotty nm35
    The new cam sensors can have issues too, so whether the stickers are there or not you will need to get a scanner on the car.
  19. scotty nm35
    If it's a DD, you are supposed to run special plugs, not sure what the difference is but you could perhaps be able to run the LFR5's with no issues. If I get time I will compare the plugs for you. The only copper plugs I have seen for VQ's were the same price as iridiums anyway. You should be able to source a set of LFR's for around $60-$80
  20. scotty nm35
    Go to Jetwreck (Craig'S) workshop and get a Transgo kit installed, almost all the trans fluid is dropped during fitment, it's the best way to ensure the fluid and filter are clean, and your gearbox will love you.
  21. scotty nm35
    They sometimes sound rattly when mechanics use a 5w30, but I would stay away if you can't prove what is causing the noise.
  22. scotty nm35
    When you push any setup you will have high exhaust temps, no matter the fuel. I have seen well over 900 degrees C in my manifold. I doubt any VNT will take that for long, other than some brittle ceramic ti composites perhaps.
  23. scotty nm35
    I would run a 44-45mm gate, especially if you want to run low boost. Hopefully the Hybrid mani has good gate flow.
  24. scotty nm35
    Nissan. Matic J.
  25. scotty nm35
    Haha, its a ripper that bolt, and why I offset the o2 bung on my dump pipes. It will go together and come out again much easier once Craig fits it. The dump makes the difference as it is the main exhaust restriction.
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