scotty nm35

Paid.

How did he check the turbo, did he remove it? And now the injectors need cleaning? Are you sure it needs all this preventative maintenance?

Mmm, I love lobster.

The VQ30det is crap as there is no variable cams, you will really notice the soggy response compared to the 2.5 or the 3.5. Best would be a built VQ35 which would set you back a bit but the parts are available at least. Or if you want a stock motor to drop in, leave the VQ25det, its the strongest of the bunch if you plan to mod. With all these options you will have the same ecu issues. There is plenty of work happening on the ecu side and hopefully one day there will be an aftermarket plugin option but until then whats wrong with the Emanage Ultimate? I will try to do a wiring chart when I rip mine out for those of you that cant make it down to Melbourne if you like, that way you only need to find a competant tuner to tweak the map.

I didnt keep track of the time it took but there was a LOT of die grinding. PM'ed

I was hoping the new stainless housings would work on these Kando's, what size is the turbine, is it larger than a GT30? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Stainless-Steel-Turbine-Housing-HKS-GT3037-Garrett-GT3076R-82-AR-Square-T3-/130599600651?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6857c20b

It came up good, I wonder if you could get some sort of heatproof cover like a turbo beanie to cover the wastegate? I guess you will have a screamer plumbed over the heatsheild soon so it wont really matter, when the cops lift the bonnet you will be screwed. lol.

Speaking of which, do you think its worth adding a fine inline filter for the trans cooler?

Sorry, wrong thread. lol.

The person behind you might be when you catch the subframe and come to a stop instantly. lol

Dont worry, we all understand. What happens when the chassis is ground away or you catch a the crossmember on a lip?

No, not much, its only a 2.5mm hole. Perhaps it throws a code if theres not enough vac but I doubt it.

Leave the sock, just clean it. The filter will need to be replaced, I dont have the p/n handy though, perhaps Cam or one of the other guys has it?

Theres a sock and a filter.

This page details some oem part numbers. http://www.nissanparts.cc/catalog/?section=1060 I got one in from the states not long ago but I didnt keep the wrapper so I dont have the number handy. Sorry. Post it up if you grab one just to be sure. Edit: I have a HKS style stainless one here if you need one...

It will firm up the shifts between gears, and make the shift marginally quicker. As our cars back out timing during gearshifts anyway the shift is never too clunky as with older cars. Get on to Craig and order the kit, it will prolong the life of your trans. See if you can get a trans cooler on at the same time, preferably with a thermostat inline.

As I have stated before, this is probably the main reason for the original Japanese owners got rid of their cars at auction. The repair bill for a replacement turbo fitted from nissan would cost more than the car is worth over there. My turbo had a fairly loud whistle when I got it. I highflowed that one before it blew but the stock one I have here is nearly silent. After dissasembly all I could find wrong with my original was the rear bearing was contaminated with dirty burnt oil and exhaust particles. All you can do in this case is increase the oil supply and hope it doesn't fail soon.

Ours is the same as the G35 other than the return line. The how to Duncan posted will show you how to fit a Walbro but obviously you wont need to mod anything for a factory replacement.

Mmm, fuel regulator reference hose will definitely make it run lean. I eventually put cable ties around mine to stop this happening. Why did this make the boost sensor come up though?

Lol Aaron, not hub spacers. I can make you one if you want Brett. Just bring the gasket with you.

Not 100% sure with the V35 but on the M35, if you cut the MIL wire from the ecu the car goes into limp mode. Its fairly easy to change the dash over and try it but youre too far away to come and borrow my spare.

I can get a Walbro through my Aus wholesaler for under $140 I think so shipping from the states probably isnt worth it. There are definitely fakes around so be very careful. It will need slight modding to install and you will need to rewire the power to it as Walbro's need constant 13.8V. I have a factory pump here if you need one. PM me. I cant guarentee how long they will last but mine wasnt noisy when I took it out... Where are you located?

I have a stock turbo here thats nearly silent so the noise could be either the front wheel rubbing (turbo is flogged) or usually its the rear bearing on its way out (like Dale said, drill the banjo restrictor out) Dont stress, it could last years like that if it has a good oil supply. Changeing the T3 manifold gasket with a new oem one could be a good idea too, its a pain to get in to though.

PM sent.

It needs to be quite a few inches higher for my head to clear it. Damn corners.