Dark26

Double check your voltage at the battery terminals with a multimeter while the car is idling for a few mins. I once had an alternator fail and it would now and then spike to 17V at the battery for a split second. This was on a carby car though so it may not apply as I'm guessing you would know straight away with an ECU if it was spiking to 17V haha.

79712-04U06 does say N1 and 326 is crystal white which is what all N1s are as well. 79712-04U16 could be the non N1 glass, but that doesn't explain why there's only 3 colour codes listed. Unless it's a weird FAST thing.

79712-04U06 does say N1 and 326 is crystal white which is what all N1s are as well. 79712-04U16 could be the non N1 glass, but that doesn't explain why there's only 3 colour codes listed. Unless it's a weird FAST thing.

No worries, just remembered I can get a N1 VIN from the GTR Registry. I'll check tonight.

Did you have a R32 N1 VIN number? I can check in FAST tonight.

I imagine trying to find a clean and stock R32 GTS-T would be like trying to find a clean and stock S13/180SX. That 911 appreciated a fair bit! I always thought the ~44,000 R32 GTRs were too many, but those 70,000 911s prove it's not. In contrast, there's 40 R32 GTRs going through auction at the moment in Japan. While a lot of them are most likely not that great, 40 is still 40. Will be interesting once it ends up being less than 10 going through auction in Japan regularly. If it ever ends up at this point anyway.

$45 to $1,100....that's worse than the GTRs themselves! I didn't know the front/rear moulds jumped that much either. The last time I checked they were $290 and $322 for front/rear, I really should start stocking up more on new parts.

66 in 2012 and now 12 in 2016...bit of a difference!

No worries, yeah that's what I thought. I'm gonna try a lithium spray tomorrow so we'll see how it goes. But at least there's some other options.

Thanks, I've got some of that already so I'll give it a try. I probably could use some sort of oil if nothing else works but just gotta be careful it doesn't fling around.

Thanks, using a brush is a good idea. I don't have a ball pivot though so it may not work. This is a setup from a R34 GTT, it's pretty similar to what I have.

Hi guys, I've got a clutch squeak happening from the clutch fork pivot pin after the car has been used for a while and it's gotten nice and hot with lots of clutch pedal movements. I've read through a lot of threads on SAU about clutch squeaks but these all pretty much apply to ball pivot style clutch forks where the way to fix it is to apply some grease to the ball. Since I have a late model R32 GTR, it has the pin style pivot point rather than a ball and so I don't think I can apply grease with my finger to lubricate it. I've tried using a silicone spray (Not a lot) since it's thin which made the clutch pedal smoother but after a longer period of time than before, I do get a slight squeak. No where near as bad as before though. Which type of lubricant (and I'm assuming spray?) would be thick enough for this pivot point but still be able to penetrate the bore of where the pin sits? Thanks.

It's gonna be great! My car is almost ready

There had been 3 on Carsales over the last few months for about $40,000. 2 of the 3 aren't on Carsales anymore, not sure if they sold though.

This info is gold! It's good to see what all the options were for the R32 GTRs and how many had them. Thanks!

Form and payment sent.

Thanks .

Bob, did you know the size of the Japanese OEM battery? Is it the same as a Century NS40Z battery?

Have you got a photo of it? Didn't know Nismo made a gear shifter boot, unless you're getting confused with some fake one? You should still be able to buy a new genuine Nissan one though.

It's not exactly different but you may be braking differently in your driveway than when you're driving. You haven't said how long you were holding the brakes in the driveway so I'm assuming that while driving you're holding the brakes longer for stops. If I went for a short drive for testing, I would probably slow down to almost stopped from 60 about 5 or so times by the time I make it back around from all the T intersections/corners I have to turn at. It may not seem like much but you may not be braking the same amount in your driveway as you do while driving, that's where I think the difference is. Try pumping the pedal a few times and then hold it down with firm pressure for about 10-15 seconds, if you don't notice anything repeat this a few times.

I'm gonna guess that you're using more pedal effort while driving than in your driveway since you actually have to stop.

Take your wheels off where it's leaking and clean the discs, calipers and lines with brake cleaner. Once it's all completely dry, start the engine and pump then hold the brake pedal a few times. Then go back to the brakes and have a look where the leak is coming from. You may be able to see if it's coming from the line itself, the connection of the line to the caliper or the piston.

Alright your first post sounds a bit wrong then. I thought it was you connect the multimeter, it starts out at 96mA, after 10 seconds it goes down to 6 mA by itself. But if this only happens when you remove the fuse for the tail lights as you just said above, then yeah there's something on that circuit causing it. There could be some wires that are damaged or maybe if someone has messed around back there with the wiring and hasn't done it properly. When it's showing 96mA, do you see any lights on at all? Electrical issues are fun to find..... Can start by checking out the wiring to the rear lights and see if you can find anything obvious. If you can get a wiring diagram then you can see what else is on the circuit that could be causing it.