Kinkstaah

I could, but where's the fun in driving the car, having more fun and saving a LOT of money? That's not what owning a skyline is about, man.

Nah, to be fair there haven't been many dramas, other than surprise, new turbo needed! Just a lot of things to correct from previous build. A lot of time was lost engineering a flex plate from scratch that can handle dat torque. Which when you think about it, when your engine builder is creating a custom flex plate for an auto transmission from a mixture of RB30 and RB25 parts for a R34 gearbox which is different again.. you've probably chosen the correct people to solve problems.

That is what the first builders said This is what the second builders said

+1 another for traction tyres

Engine build complete after many dramas. 'greg can you come here and tune the start' Rock up with laptop Play with ECU car starts... and appears to run/idle fine/way smoother than it did before it died, no smoke, no leaks, just... purring away f**k, expect 7 years of bad luck now everyone I'm sorry

I have the same kit in my RB25Neo. Can confirm you need to do something about the squirters. I'm no engine builder but I believe they came to the same conclusion you did, and modded the pistons with a relief. The previous engine builder opted to just remove the squirters.

Natural selection /extremerightpro+

but my torque caused trent's dyno to reset

I have the haltech PS2000, but the PS1000, Elite (I think?) and the Skyline plug-in ECU's all use the same system, tables, method of correcting for ethanol, content. Practically its quite easy to do. However it could be time consuming. I am happy I have a wideband and can tinker with correction maps just incase 32% petrol (or whatever) decides it'd rather idle at 13.4 AFR instead of 14.7. I could see most tunes being 'slightly' out, but mainly only because it requires time to get *perfect*. Most tuners will tune on your most common fuel, then make some approximate (i.e, very safe) corrections for alternate fuels. Enough for spirited driving, but also enough that you'd want to gravitate toward your 'base' fuel as much as feasible.

Scotty, the PS version and most of the plugin ECU's (the R34 plugin does it) of haltech stuff will all do proper flex. Its not too complicated, as you said, it all goes off a 0-5v sensor, then has a separate map that it interpolates from for correction on timing, fuel, boost. I imagine this is also what Nistune does, as well as anything else that is flex capable.

With no context, I'll chime in because VWL There's a lot of things to consider between Engineering and Army. Consider them.

tbh, the whole asylum seekers debate is similar to welfare/benefits sometimes people do need it, and are genuine no one has a problem with these people, ever Then when you hear of someone genuine, who deserves help, and everyone be like makes the system as a whole better for humanity

Sorry, I meant it from the perspective of someone who has spend 8k+ on his auto in his R34 through various means, shift kits, standalone ECUs, coolers, etc. Its great, when it works. When it doesn't, manual time. If you never go above 300rwkw, sure, I suppose it can work, but for how long? I imagine I will break mine again in short order if my car is ever back on the road again, and when that happens, yeah, people typically don't go "Well I will down grade from 380rwkw to 240rwkw" they just go manual

As someone who has done it once, and done it right..... "doing it right" = Manual conversion

It matters, a lot. Not as much as you'd get this result though, there's more than just that at play.. I also vote there's some massive boost leak somewhere too, for bonus points

The reo bar (big metal bit in the middle) is the same. The black headlight support things (can't think of a better name) are what's different between series 1 and 2 fitment. They are literally the only difference. Forgive my paint skills. Red parts are what you need, but the middle bar above the reo is a different part but will fit.

A certain well reputed workshop I would never go back to, which is I guess why threads like this exist because I'm not the only one. The truth is, if you want a quick car, just look at f**kin Richo's car. Stock engine, hiflow. Spend everything else in learning to drive and having something that stops and goes around a corner. Cheaper, way more fun, way less time invested in f**king around and so on. That is where the smart money goes, absolutely what I'd do if I could go back in time.

I think this should be noted as an achievement

Oop.. for some reason I didn't read the thread properly and thought OP was trying to get a manual nistune working on an Auto R34, not a stagea, which seems to have a similar setup to a R34 N/A (seperate TCM) You could just get an external TCU entirely, but lol don't. Just put a manual in. If it's out of the question, wait until it is part of the question. As before, NISTune would know, but I wouldn't beleive them until I got your own, original, factory intended ECU to be NISTuned' or you could confirm 100% that the ECU you had was from an Auto Stagea. Source: Painful, painful, painful auto experiences with my own car

The R34 Auto ECU actually has 22 extra pins on it compared to the manual one. If the manual ECU literally doesn't have these pins going to sensors and solenoids that the auto ECU needs, then,um, I can't see it working? UNLESS the difference really is just on the plug, and the R34 manual LOOM doesn't have wires coming out of the other end of the plug. I don't know. Never seen a manual ECU/loom But there's definitely extra pins in the workshop manual!

I carry 2 myki's on me at all times

I figure someone will find it amusing

Engine build complete. Putting engine back into car "hey greg, um, this is your GTX3076R compressor wheel"

I'm so oldschool I laugh and scoff at all CS players being n00bs who couldn't play a real shooter so they played one that made them miss and make you unable to move or shoot accurately anyway. .....and then there were no more arena FPS's QQ WTF BBQ

I won't be too worried about the fuel, it has a wideband controller and a gauge and I'm familiar enough with the Haltech that I can change fuel maps on the fly to get it happy. Main problem was as GTSboy has mentioned, the time it takes to get the timing right.... is critical time to make sure the engine is being run in at all. It's on E85, so pinging was never a problem. I don't know how 'much' timing to pull to accompany 8.2 to 9 CR. I can easily just pull -X degrees everywhere and then go for a drive, my main concern was pulling too much, could affect how the run in is actually done. Can confirm I don't care about power during the run in. The 'problem' is the previous engine kind of made 350RWKW at 4000rpm. If you're trying to "Load it up" in a high gear at medium RPM then there's a good chance that uh, it's kind of party time in those cells..... with a different CR. The characteristics of the engine meant 5-10 psi happened quite a lot while just cruising around at 30-50% throttle at 2-3k rpm. You could argue that that's pretty ideal for running an engine in. If E85 isn't a big deal, or doesn't cause any crazy problems for bedding an engine in, then that's a great piece of news for me, because it may only need 'minimal' adjustment to account for the extra CR, which isn't that much, I'm not going from 8.2 to 13.5 or anything of that nature.