Bass Junky

You know you are from the east side when: You used to hang at 7/11 on the corner of Mitcham and Canterbury Rd until the early hours of the morning. When hanging with all your mates at 7/11, and it starts to rain, you all high tail it down to do 'sideways' at Nutrimetics on the corner of Mountain Hwy and Burwood Hwy.

That has to be one of the coolest projects I've seen. You could have the front section up near the turbo kept the same and then a thinner section put on up to the airbox to keep the diameter and some silicone in there somewhere to keep the flexibility. Impressive man, very impressive.

Hey ppls. I want to try a GTR BOV to see if that is contributing to my boost funnies at high RPM. Anyone got one in Melbourne that has been fitted to a GTS-T or has one modified to suit? No silly prices. BASS OUT

Trooper. Log results of Dyno Charts HERE http://sau.garagespank.com/login.php

Can't post pics until they are sprayed. They are a mongrel to mask because some parts are really fiddly. I've got to rub them back also. If the 3M rubbing stuff TOUCHES the polished bit, I'm screwed, so I have to be Uber careful. It's lunch time and after work for me for a little while. Although I did find a pretty clever way to mask them using off cuts from some paper stuff at work!!! Stay Tuned.

Trooper. That boost curves look amazing, and for it to hold cleanly to red line like that is great. I don't suppose you have AFR numbers? I just have trouble with the Stock FPR and injector bits. I have no trouble with the power and the boost, just fishy with the injectors. This turbo you speak of..... Will they be making more, because they look like a winner to me!

Got Wheels not gonna tell you which ones until they are painted and on the car !!

Are you sure it's opening up under boost? If it is, there isn't anything you can do about it. A larger internal wastegate simply controls boost creep. An external wastegate may solve your problems, but to go to that extent, you may as well sell your turbo, take the money you were going to spend on the manifold mods and wastegate and buy a GT-RS or a 2835 ProS. my 0.02c

Trooper, are you in WA running a wolf I'm sorry to say, but I find 270 rwkw a little bit out there for stock injectors and stock fpr. At 200rwkw I was hitting 90%+ injectors. Changed to bigger and with the 250rwkw I'm about 80% something fishy going on....... BASS OUT

+1 for my life as a youngster!

Hi Mate, I do. Available for almost immediate dispatch...

Hey ppls. I'll freight them for free for the last 3 guides. Stag Series I radiator deflectors with Scoop in Satin Black. $120 delivered.

WD40 is your friend.

As I understand it, the cars need to be 'mass produced' to a certain extent. IE. Can't drive a Pagini Zonda, Mac F1 etc. The S-Tune and R-Tune are really lower than the N1. N1 has NO radio, NO this, NO that. Does have Carboin Fibre under trays, front lip, Carbon Bonnet, etc etc etc. It's about choosing the highest spec you possibly can, and then building that into a race car. Or, replicating a lower specced car INTO the higher spec, using all the higher spec parts. must be genuine parts though.

Regs are: Open Computers Open Suspension so long as you don't change the pick up points Open Brakes Exhaust must be no larger than the largest part of the stock system All panels must be stock Weight must be within a certain amount of stock weight + cage. Basically the car is meant to be a stock car going racing. Obviously this is a little basic, but you get the idea.

GTRs are heavy beasts. Even a fully stripped out race car is still going to way north of 1500 kgs including cage. Power.... well as much as you can make out of "stock turbos" and "stock engine"

Step one. Start with an N1 as a base car, as you'll need the N1 oil cooler. you CANNOT fit a non standard oil cooler, radiator, turbos, cams, anything really to a targa car. You can however build a standard car into an N1 but you need to use all N1 parts. Not sure whether you've seen the price of a genuine N1 oil cooler, but you wont get much change from $11,000 So, start with the car that has everything you want already fitted from factory. An N1 should do nicely. And NO, you can't ran the Z-Tune. Targa Tas has banned it

Hey guys, this is the look I'm going for...... I like the dark centre with the polished lip. With either these OR These

Having super smooth walls on air passages can actually cause a drop in flow because the air 'sticks' to the walls. You need enough 'roughness' on the walls to allow some turbulance to assist the flow. This isn't to say that a cast finish on the inside of your head is a good thing, but something you can see a reflection of yourself in can be a bad thing. Turbulent flow can assist in fuel mixing, and the new 2.0 Litre TFSI (Turbo Fuel Stratified Injection) Golf GTI engine features valves in the head which open and close according to the power requirements, closing when low flow is required for better velocity of air, and opening when high power is required for more volume of air. These valves are infinitely adjustable, and actually between the plenum and the head ports.

As much as possible, with as much grip as possible Need torque everywhere for tarmac rallying. Not peak power.

Fark I'm a nice guy!

Hey mate. Sorry to hear about the badges, but on a better note, the lip looks great, and you have helping in cementing my wheel style Dark centres, polished lip FTW

G O L D

Can you please post some more pics of the wheels. Gutter rash photos and some photos of the tread?

Gentleman + Scholar! What a fantastic post. I commend you! Now get that thing on a dyno!!!!!