sydking

Hoping to have mine at about 25 psi, Though if its not making much extra power past 20 then theres no real point pushing them in my books

which would result at lower kw at higher speed would it not, smaller the snail wouls see more power at less speed and lower rev range

ahhh makes sense now, cheers mate. Kind of dosent sound as good now tbh hahah

Like i said, I assume, as im not sure, you did not answer my question, let's just say anything over 110 is useless, your dyno shows about 150 kw at 110....like I said not surw how these things work/read

what gear is your new dyno run done in? I assume all tuneres use same gear, as max kw at 170kph dosent sound to practical, I pretty much wanna know power in 2nd or 3rd gear at 6k rpm....if thoes sort of graphs are even avalibe? I haven't looked to much into the dyno grqph side of things yet

Since the update, My phone version has been really annoying, It used to be fitted to the screen, Show all the treads nice and easy, Not its like a net full version adn i keep having to zoom in to read something or click something. all settings on ym phone are fine, Not sure what other to try

-5 are like hks 2530 and -9 like hks gtss, both more lag then stock, by the sounds of it you want -7/34n1 turbostheres a good write up in someones sig (forget who) that has the turbos choice for the power wanted. -9s wont make 350, But close enough and -7s will make 320 odd. -5 although such a popular turbos are much better with a stoked motor, Or a track car where you can wind the boost up and really let them open up. As your said yours is a daily, -5s would be usless below 4500 rpm, -9s would be biggest id go. And -7s would be the best choice for a daily street gtr. The aboive pretty much sums it up, Have a search in my name for the many threads i made about -5 vs -9 ect ect.

As per the infomation and results on here, Then i would say wrong turbo choice, Go for the -9s instead.

have a look at the rb26 dyno thread, but..... get ID 1000 cc injectors with adapters will fit std rail. dont need new fuel rail, Dont need pressure reg, z32 AFM is fine.... No mapless not needed. -5's with 20 psi or so will give you 350...But may aswell aim for 400 You after top end power, or response and a bit less top end?

you didnet think about the temprement before you bought the dog? Seriously mate, way to many dogs being put down becasue people are ignorent. Whats your other dog? Ive got two pittys and a dalmation, Feed them sepertate and dont leave food and toys around,

ive got a NIsmo front pipe. Has a plate screwed into it. Cant miss it

I also would like to know what people are doing with fully work cars that are street regoed. The quote i got from just car, With buit motor, wheels, coilovers, ect ect, Listing everything, Was clost to $4,500 per year if i can remebr corectly, And that was taking the highest excess. Insurance is peice of mind, and an expensive one at that. Heck, most of us have probly paid the value of our car twice over just in premuims, Not the mention the excess in the event of something happening.

hmmm living a bit beyond your means and being in debt are two diffrent things, Just like being poor, and having no money, Two very diffrent things. im 21 and earn a little over $500 a week, did i really need to spend 25k converting my NA 33 into a 330 odd KW Rb26? No..... but thats what i wanted so thats what ive done, Never paid anything on credit in my life, fair enough i dont piss my money up the wall every weekend so im happy to put it towards the car after food/bills are paid. Why the heck should i change this due to insurance being to expensive, Work hard and enjoy the things you work for. Being the yougest of majority of my mates being 5 years + older then me, Pulling beers at night after the daily grind just so they can afford a bag and a few drinks on the weekend, Then bithcing how they hate working so much and have nothing to show for it. Thats when its time to re evaluate. Meh give me a nice car and empty wallet any day of the week

optima or odessy

you will only need a blue slip if rego has lapsed for more then 3 months, Other then that, your pink slip and CTP is all linked, THey will notfify eachother so its in force at the same time. you can do CTP over the phone and they will give you a recipt number, YOu wrtie that down and put on widnscreen if your rego has lasped for a few weeks. Then mechnic will test brakes and quick look over, as above about $35

Wouldnet go as far as calling it fraud, It just simply gives them a reason to to pay out, End of they day. They are a busines. They are there to make money and pay wages. Fair enough theres a few things you can swap over in the event of something happening, But good luck swaping over coilovers if you been hit in any of the corners..... What is the deal with using coilovers? They need to be welded so not ajustable to be legal? The legality of them baffles me....

OK......

Pretty sad when you let price of insurance stop you form getting the car/bike/anything you want. Settle with fire and theft, not at fault you will get paid out no matter what. If its a weekend warrior and not driving in constanst heave traffic it would work im your favour. Even if you do have full comp, SOme prick does a hit an run, Or there not even insured, Your still coughing up your excess to pay for it, ANd half the time the excess is double the price of the damage.

Might aswell not have full comp to begin with, They dont and wont have to pay out if you dont disclose it.

Credit cards, yuk! But yes, works out bout the same. Untill you start getting charged intrest ofcourse

even with a wire transfer fee, then the cost to fit and balance, Saving is still $500+ The quotes i have been getting local, Avging $440 per corner is rubber only. compared to $182 at tirerack

I would of forked out an extra couple hundred for sure to buy local, but $800. No thanks

well they wont insure you with out an aus std 3 point immobiliser.

Looks a gem mate, Nothing beats a black GTR!!!

You rate the r1r's. ?