PLYNX

Saw this thread on blocks and it takes me way back to dinosaur days with my old Holden red motor sixes and its seems that the same issues with the in line sixes keeps on repeating in regards to main cap and cradle walking. Got to agree with r32-t on the work that needs to be done on them to get them to survive high horse power applications. I had to sonic test the blocks I had for wall thickness and core shifting, sleeve them down with thin wall ductile or nodular iron sleeves (can't remember which), grout fill the block. Also had to machine a cradle or crank brace ( whatever you want to call it ) got a two inch thick block of steal, the length of the motor and width of the sump rails and machine it out to replace the main caps and drill out the sump rail mounting bolts and bolt it all up. Dry sumped it etc etc blah blah blah This tended to be the best way to get the most strength out of them.

Im always wearing my foil hat . . . . in side my Faraday cage lined lead walled bunker ! Can never be to careful !

Bahaha ! a friend of mine has a Aus 1995 25th anniversary 300ZX Stillen addition put out by Nissan. I believe only 30 were produced ! Less that 80k on the clock and un-molested I wonder what that bugger is worth ?

Love this thread ! I got a R33 GTST in my garage Im still using for spares for my car ! I think Im gonna fix it and flog it off !

Yes there is ! Its called money. I used to think that the "there is no replacement for displacement" was a groovy statement in the day but then I got exposed to the F1 Honda engines of the mid to late 80s. Changed the way I thought a lot !

Now that process looks familiar ! ! ! ! . . . . . . .

In the end I went with the GTR mechanical option. Never looked back

OK I'll bite ! And did you rebuild it after 30km ? For mine I've got 473000km on the engine and its still going. So looks like UWISSH is probably right !

Now those pics bring new meaning to the term "barn find" . . . . . more like "jungle find" !

Your right ! Hows this one look ?

Lost a Nismo center cap off my wheels god knows where. Made up these as a replacement ! Bloody Covid lock downs and staying away from everyone made me do it ! Original in chrome was silicon molded then cast in polyester resin. Then the Nissan center section machined out. A silicon mold was taken off a small Nismo aluminium badge and that was also cast in polyester resin. The two were stuck together and Bobs your Uncle . . . . . but not if he has the operation cause then he would be your Aunt ! ! !

You manage to get that part made ? I've made reproductions of parts many times before. You can see some of it , over the years on this forum

Also check the fuel filler neck isn't leaking and the tank is pressurized when you undo the fuel cap. Happened with a couple of my R33s. Noticed fuel fumes venting out of the tank flap in my side mirror

You only need to wipe off the white "oxidization" off the surface of the rubber with a dampend cloth

Toluene or Xylene will probably remove it DON'T get it on anything else

Old school term for a small for a small four cylinder car for chasing chickens around the farm yard ! Small run around car Brings to mind when they released the Holden Gemini van and they were labeled "finger van" comparing them to the full sized Holed panel van of the same era ! I'll let you figure out how they got that Aussie slang name

Speaking of Eurocars thinking of getting a Renault Megane R.S. 265 Cup Manual as a chook chaser and getting the R33 off the road for some well earned maintenance and up grades.

Had this happen to me on various electric motors over the years I've have success with putting the armature into an electric drill and polishing it with 1200 grade sandpaper. This will take the build up of carbon and dirt built up over the years on the copper. Reassemble then see how it goes. If this fails then you will have to look at the brushes as they can, as well, build up gunk and oxidize and fail to take the current to the armature. If its the brushes then all I did was go to and electrical repair shop, for power tools, with a set of vernier calipers and went through brushes until I found the right size and soldered them into place. If this fails then you've got to look at the armature or the winding itself and an electrical repair shop is going to have a poke and a prod at it. My money says its the brushes

Ah the same as the GTST ones ! I think I got three sets in my garage some where. Or at least two sets . . . . oh my oldtimers disease is getting baaaaaaad !

Pics of these "wind deflectors" you speak of ? ? ?

Your talking on a R33 right ? Had the same thing happen with mine along with the little plastic push clips/studs, that went to god, that secure it to the metal clips. In the end I went and got some stainless steel domed allen key head bolts and bolted it back together. Then stuck it to the window frame with quality double sided automotive tape

Oh Johnny, Things are opening up now after covid and you know the cure to your woes . . . . . . . DRIVE BABY DRIVE . . . . . . . And you know where. Fix it fix it now . . . . . .

Yes way! Put that money in any bank and see what kind of interest rate they will give you on it. That's one of the reasons why the value $ rate of climb so high as well ! People are looking for a high rate of return on their investment

Is it just me or is there something really wrong with the wheel alignment on that 350z ? ?

Seems you have sort of answered your own problem Hmmmm . . . In my opinion get rid if that cone filter and use and original one or multiples of one All it doing is sucking hot air into the engine for the hot engine bay What does the original air box look like ? It can be a starting point to re-engineering it. Basically you need to convert that entire guard corner to an insulated area for a filter to sit that is pulling cold air from the outside of the car. Here's an example of what can done on my R33 a while ago using the original cold air intake