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PLYNX

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Everything posted by PLYNX

  1. You only need to wipe off the white "oxidization" off the surface of the rubber with a dampend cloth
  2. Toluene or Xylene will probably remove it DON'T get it on anything else
  3. Old school term for a small for a small four cylinder car for chasing chickens around the farm yard ! Small run around car Brings to mind when they released the Holden Gemini van and they were labeled "finger van" comparing them to the full sized Holed panel van of the same era ! I'll let you figure out how they got that Aussie slang name
  4. Speaking of Eurocars thinking of getting a Renault Megane R.S. 265 Cup Manual as a chook chaser and getting the R33 off the road for some well earned maintenance and up grades.
  5. Had this happen to me on various electric motors over the years I've have success with putting the armature into an electric drill and polishing it with 1200 grade sandpaper. This will take the build up of carbon and dirt built up over the years on the copper. Reassemble then see how it goes. If this fails then you will have to look at the brushes as they can, as well, build up gunk and oxidize and fail to take the current to the armature. If its the brushes then all I did was go to and electrical repair shop, for power tools, with a set of vernier calipers and went through brushes until I found the right size and soldered them into place. If this fails then you've got to look at the armature or the winding itself and an electrical repair shop is going to have a poke and a prod at it. My money says its the brushes
  6. Ah the same as the GTST ones ! I think I got three sets in my garage some where. Or at least two sets . . . . oh my oldtimers disease is getting baaaaaaad !
  7. Your talking on a R33 right ? Had the same thing happen with mine along with the little plastic push clips/studs, that went to god, that secure it to the metal clips. In the end I went and got some stainless steel domed allen key head bolts and bolted it back together. Then stuck it to the window frame with quality double sided automotive tape
  8. Oh Johnny, Things are opening up now after covid and you know the cure to your woes . . . . . . . DRIVE BABY DRIVE . . . . . . . And you know where. Fix it fix it now . . . . . .
  9. Yes way! Put that money in any bank and see what kind of interest rate they will give you on it. That's one of the reasons why the value $ rate of climb so high as well ! People are looking for a high rate of return on their investment
  10. Is it just me or is there something really wrong with the wheel alignment on that 350z ? ?
  11. Seems you have sort of answered your own problem Hmmmm . . . In my opinion get rid if that cone filter and use and original one or multiples of one All it doing is sucking hot air into the engine for the hot engine bay What does the original air box look like ? It can be a starting point to re-engineering it. Basically you need to convert that entire guard corner to an insulated area for a filter to sit that is pulling cold air from the outside of the car. Here's an example of what can done on my R33 a while ago using the original cold air intake
  12. Dude you gotta give us more info like: Model of car ? Alarm ? Have you done anything to it recently ? Etc Etc The more info you give us the more we can help
  13. Oh no I made a mistake ! I wouldn't buy a 2021 BMW M8 Competition F93 Auto M xDrive ! Its the 2021 BMW M8 Competition F92 Auto M xDrive I was after ! ! ! Don't need four doors . . . . . But you, in the end, are correct. Got house buying priorities first at the moment
  14. Don't be dericulus ! For a $185 ? I got the BMW M8 Competition F93 Auto M xDrive
  15. Funny you should mention starter motors ! Mine went as well. Second hand around $150 Re-coed with warranty $185 ! Guess which one I went with !
  16. Have you checked the clutch pedal box is intact ? They are notorious for breaking the spot welds. Sometimes it can be hard to see as you've got to flip upside down in the foot well to see it !
  17. Man you gotta give that little tikes cozy coup an roof chop ! 10cm to start !
  18. I have, over the years given this advice as much as possible: Are you confusing the way the car rides or how the car handles ? Change the anti-roll bars ( that's sway bars ) FIRST. If you change the handling characteristics, from a body roll ( sway ) point of view, you may well find the present shock/coil over set up OK. This in the end will be a personal choice being affected as to how you use the car. Saying this, on my R33 I went for 27mm Whiteline (which is solid) front and factory 27mm R33 GTR rear (which is hollow) anti roll bars. Another bonus is you may well save by not having to buy a set of coil overs you never really needed !
  19. Bahahaha ! Fixed and modified for the neighbors kid this: Max Force Shadow Hawk 100 ! Replaced the two piece plastic barrel with an single piece aluminium one and rough spiral honed it internally to get a bit of spin on the projectile Replaced the air sealing mechanism. Replaced the air pump mechanism with a decent mountain bike pump with increase spring pressure. Now fires out to around 200ft( Im sorry 60m) but not very accurately though ! And before you ask it fires water soaked paper "bullets" that splatter when they hit. BLOODY COVID LOCK DOWN MADE ME DO IT !
  20. Man whats happenenen in the land of the maple leaf with the 32 ?? Its been like a billion years since you posted with progress !
  21. Is that because its the only bull-bar equipped Skyline in the world ? ? ?
  22. Oh you killjoy ! You took away the link ! We were just getting warmed up ! And I really like that aero package on that 34. Looks like the aerodynamics of a . . . . . . Lambo . . no no Ferrari . . .wait wait . . Maclaren . . no no that's not it . . . . ah got it - parachute
  23. Also a luggage boot rack for a R33 Series 1 please. The one that will fit over the rear spoiler because I don't want to change the aerodynamic down force by removing it.
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