PLYNX

What gearbox are you running ?

Get that rod crack tested ! If that's a crack your stuffed if its a fault in the forging/casting of the rod, it may be ok . . . . . However if the rods faulty in any way it will lunch your engine ! You've gotta ask yourself are you feeling lucky ? Cause I don't remember if you've got 5 or 6 good rods or six . . . . So are you felling lucky ? ( and now apologies to Clint Eastwood / Dirty Harry Movies )

In the end ( after a lot of fiddling about ) I went with a Whiteline solid 27mm front and a R33 GTR 27mm hollow on the rear.

So how'd it go ? I know it was raining in the morning out that way. Was there a good turnout ?

Have you checked the clutch pedal box isn't broken ? They are notorious for the spot welds cracking and the box then flexing all over the shop. You'll have to flip upside down in the foot well with a bright torch and get some one to press the clutch to see it.

What model is your car ? R32 R33 R34 series ? Sounds like exactly happened to My R33 Series 1 Check the air flow meter and do a search here on re-soldering the connecting pins inside it.

That's great news and at the same time very worrying from the point of view for the amount of money you laid out for the cluster specialist and the electrician not to diagnose the problem !

That's Aston Martin Superleggera money . . . . that's my pick ! !

Yup ! I grew up in a era where we had to learn both and then had both Aussie and European cars so I got both set of metric and imperial spanners and sockets. Along with having European heritage speaking three languages as well . . . . . . no wonder my brain is mush most of the time. As a rule when some says 300kw or 300hp I automatically add or subtract 34% as required for a ball park figure

Now that is GOLD Johnny ! Ive just laughed so hard I wizzed myself ! Are you gonna yell at me if I mention the Europeans use PS as a measurement of engine power as well ? ? ? But seriously for the amount of cash that you would throw out there Id rather try and pull weight out of the car and look at carbon fiber doors, super light weight wheels and light weight seats to save 30-40 kgs and end up with change !

Yep had something similar happen to my R33 but not to the extent of problem with yours. Changed it out, to test it, and it worked fine and then went over to a Veilside cluster and had a instrument repair place change the kms to the same as my original one( had to sign paper work for them ) Only other time I've seen a similar thing is a NISMO 300km/h cluster fitted to a manual that came out of a auto. Fitted up It wouldn't work properly on the manual and when re-fitted to the auto worked fine again

So the auto electrician says the wiring is ok ? Yes ? That was their exact words ? And the "cluster specialist" said that all the instruments were working ? Yes ? Again exact words ? Then my money is on the flexible plastic circuit board sheet on the back of the cluster. It may well have some breaks in it. Can you change out the entire cluster ?

Bahahahah ! Might be time for a nice cup of tea, a BEX and a lie-down ! ! !

Had a quick read of this post and might of missed it but . . . . whats the weight saving from complete iron block vs alloy billet please ?

Don't beat your self up too much man As they say you learn something new every day cause I missed that as well ! ! !

I've always been very cautious when it comes to engine bearings. Look at it this way, if your turning the motor to 7000rpm it means the crank will rotate 116 times a second. Any bearing issues and the entire motor may well suffer a catastrophic failure. You have to weigh up the cost of the bearings in question against a possible cost of a new rebuild or even a new motor. Can you return them and get them re-supplied ?

Render wont open for me ! Engine bearings I assume ? Mains ? Rod ? When in doubt . . . . .

Not that I am aware of ! Pin on the top of the clock spring aligned up with he reviving hole in the back of the steering wheel ? Seems a little strange it not working ! Ive got a R34 auto triptronic steering wheel on my R33 with a R34 auto clock spring in it !

I think from memory you gently rotate it one way until it stops, then you rotate it in the opposite direction( taking note of the alignment triangles as they pass each other ) counting the number of rotations until it stops again. Then divide the number by 2 and rotate it back again that number and line up the two triangles and your done.

Have you checked your clutch pedal box ? They are notorious for cracking and bending out of shape ! Had to get into the foot well with a torch to see it Happened to me with the twin plate I had.

Hey Jake, Sorry for your loss. Your Skyline looks like a good base car to start on. First thing I'd do is wash and detail the hell out of it. This will give you an idea of the overall condition and may well give you a better path for what needs to be fixed first. If you can put some front end and interior pics as well SAU members can see really whats going on and voice further opinions. For a start type M side skirts will beef up the sides and even possibly cover up that ding on the back left side. That looks like a type S front bar, and may even be a series 1 front, but its a bit hard to see from the pic so changing it out with a factory type M front bar will do wonders for the look of it.

And my guess is Oymyakon !

Oh bugger your right !

Hey Ive got relatives in Germany ! Du has einen Vogel ! Connectors shown come with the the washer pumps ? Green one is for the rear windscreen washer 28920-71L10 White one is for the front windscreen washer 28920-71L00

Be sure NOT to sand blast the block clean as it can leave residue in the porous cast iron which can affect the welding process. If you are going to attempt the cast iron welding yourself. best to practice on scrap cast iron first. As you say if they are hard to find where your at you'll only get one shot at it to get it right so your preparation work is paramount. Just out of curiosity where are you located ? And looking back at your pics, my guess would be a rod bolt failure.