PLYNX

I have a bunch of rb20 turbo topend parts including : a brand new rb20 turbo bair head a silver top used rb20 turbo head with all the intake maifolding ( No exhaust ) a n/a red top head and a couple of containers of nuts bolts and bits Bought the heads to complete the new turbo head on a rb30 conversion but went with the rb25 head instead. Let me know if your interseted

Is the NA belt the same as the Turbo belt ? If so I have one.

30 year old tractor engines ? ? ? I built some tough red 6s over the years and pound for pound they go hard if you know how to build them up. Eldred Norman ( of Norman Superchargers fame ) was running 9 seconds on the quarter mile in the sixtys on grooved slicks ! ! ! ! Love old Holdens and Red motor sixes ! ! ! !

Im interseted in this turbo and my knoledge of turbo maifolding is fairly limited so excuse my ignorance, but if this turbo bolts onto a standard manifold where does the external gate bolt too ?

At the foot or just on the Blue Mountains. About 50km to the city(express trains if you dont want to drive). About 50km to over the mountains right into the country. Just about the same down south and up to the north with fairly good motorways connecting them. A lot more reasonable prices for real estate and a great place to live.

Thanks guys for the input.

Has any one out there in Skyline land run a GT2540 on a Rb25 head, RB30 bottom end conversion. If so how does it go ? Pros and cons ? Been offered one for not bad money and was considering it but just need a little info on them Thanks

Im after the standard rear original rear speaker housings for a r33 gtst. Also the top covers and the metal brackets that go over the speakers themselves. Preferably some one in Sydney for ease of pick up. Thanks

I'm after a engine damper for my motor. This is the one that braces the motor and against rotation and saves engine mounts.

FATGTS-R, Methaline Chloride is about the only thing that will "soften" tyres somewhat but it not recomended that you get it on the side walls as it also tends to breake down the ability of the rubber to bond to the carbon in the tyre. Oh and watch out, Methaline Chloride is pretty toxic stuff so gloves and very well ventilated areas when applying

Need a couple of engine mounts ( left and right ) asap for a 94 gtst as mine are busted. Prefer pick up in Sydney

And I hope she didnt think it was a turbo that she was buying and got ripped off !

Rooshoo/Animal repellers. Stick em to your car where there is high air flow. Emits a high frequence sound after 30km/h as the air flows through it and animals ping off ( but dont count on it with wombats though ). $6.95 at Super cheap and you can buy electric powered ones that work all the time while the car is running. One of the best and cheapest insurances against Roos and other animals you can buy.

This guy recons sprung center, with minimal shudder and very streetable. We'll see cause if it aint its going back !

Just going through the clutch shuffel at the moment. I am building a RB30/26 combo and am aiming for 350 rwkw. Been looking at the pros and cons of mulit plates. Dont like the confilcting info that Im being fed. Not to mention the cost ! Finally found a place that does a sprung single plate mulit puck plate with a pressure plate that clamps 1650kg. This combo has a slightly heaver feel on the peddal and has minimal shudder . The pucks on the plate are riveted on so you can replace them for a decient price( not around $1500 for most multi plates ) This seemed to convince me and the price which came in at around $800.

Would the hose be for the drain on the bottom of the motor on the power ariel. I have one on the bottom of mine and its suposed to vent through a small spliced rubber gromet inside the wheel arch at the bottom. Ive repaired my ariel and thats what I found. Although the hose wasnt pushed through the gromet it was just laying there leaving water to build up in the arch. Fixed that pretty quick I can tell you !

Yep thats the ones I got and the price sounds about right. The fitting size I went for was 3/4 of an inch as thats the same as the outlet/inlet in the block. Was a bit of mucking around with that size but you could go a bit smaller if you dont want to fiddle.

E-mail these guys :- The Shockabsorber Reconditioners - Sales They will be able to help you

Youll need both. The bit that holds the filter and the bit that bolts to the block. Carnt for the life of me remember the cost but as all ways shop around for the best price cause there made in the good old USA

And the beer tastes great mate !

Went and got the block adapter and the remote oil filter adapter with out the fancy anodised fittings and braided oil lines From UAS . Then simply went to a hydrolic supply place and got the high pressure hose, elbows, fittings and the like for about ninety bucks and put it togrther my self !

Put the biggest, fattest front sway bar on the front that you can find as most of the rolling is set up by the front of the car. Youll be shocked at the difference.

Hey I was looking at an alternative to both ! I'll bounce it off you guys and see what you think. I've owned and built a few engines over the years and was always chasing every bit of horse power I could get for free. Seen some interesting ones over the years.The most memorable being a fan driven altenator. But I digress. I looked at drving the standard water pump electricaly and finally after seeing a fan on a Lexus V8 got me thinking. You see the fan on that engine is drive by a small hydrolic pump through the power streering pump. So I wanted to try and use this pump to drive the water pump itself as the power steering pump runs any way. I dont think the load would be much higher so you might get some free horse power from this set up. Just a bit of food for thought and if I run across one of those fans in a wrecking yard I might give it a go

I think they were called the LSW group (02)9708 0888. They were claiming 200-600% in strength and durability. I looked into the process when it was only available in the US. The companies over there were at the time first dropping the temp of the components down to -240 degrees C and bringing it up to 125 degrees C then back to ambient temp over about 48 hours I think. It is a destressing process designed to negate the micocracking in the metal structure. From what I remember of my metal technology I dont think it actually realigns the the granular structure of the metal. To do so youd have to first heat the metal to about 900 degrees C or so so it becomes semi plastic and hold it there for quite a while to allow dendritic structures to grow with in the metal for extra strength. Then it must be cooled very slowly to allow the entire structure to hold in its present pattern. But its been awhile since I looked into the process and maybe things have changed Hope this helps

No dont do it ! Dont EVER use any cloth to wipe dirt or dust from your car. All your doing is turning the cloth into sand paper . No matter what material its made of it will sooner or later reach a saturation point were its ability to absorb dirt stops and becomes a ABRASIVE cloth. No disrespect to your mum, dangerous_daveo, but I had a run in with an enjo sales person who offered to wash my car with an enjo cloth and a jug of water. We had quite a run in after they tried to ram (figuratively speaking) this product down my throat. I wouldnt have it and they got very upset and asked what would I know about the micro fiber technology involved. I told her a little, as I am an industrial chemist by trade and if she would proceed to wash her brand new Mazda 6 euro I migth consider it. Need less to say it didnt happed and I was outter there ! I sure enjo make a great product but not for me I affraid !