GTSBoy

No. Better than GTT ECU which would have a shit fit about not seeing the TCS system. Besides which, it's the right ECU for the engine, yeah? If it's all working electrically, then expect that the IACV is dirty and stuck so that it won't close enough to drop the idle. What injector resistor? There is not supposed to be one. Well.....

S2 is not Neo. Unless perhaps you're talking about Stageas. Either way....what is the question? The VCT solenoid is in the same place on any RB with VCT. If the plugs differ, then you need to change the plug on the loom to match the plug on the solenoid. It's only 2 wires.

Ick. 2J manifolds are awful. But I know what you're saying. It's actually worth just building a nasty looking log type manifold with a little bit of added care and attention, to do something like a 7163. The factory manifold, with external WG added, can be used up to somewhat stupid power levels. Just doesn't have as much spunky noise.

No it will not. It might bolt on to the exhaust manifold, but you will have to fabricate absolutely every other thing that connects to it. And that will likely be a nasty nasty turbo with no performance and a short life. So reconsider.

If it's valve clearances (the lifters, which are just solid buckets in your engine), then get the cam covers off and get the clearances measured.

This is because even if you have half your oil stuck in the head, there will still be some in the sump. With that much oil in the head on a standard sump, there's very little in the sump and you're seconds away from kablooie. (Not telling you how to suck eggs Murray. That was aimed at IM-32-FK).

Any of the R chassis rotors will go on any of the other cars. The R34s used 14mm caliper bolts, so you have to make sure that your Vspec calipers suit that (ie not earlier ones), or be prepared to make suitable inserts for them. But this would be senseless, because GTR Brembos cost nearly as much a proper BBK upgrade these days.

For street there is certainly no need for anything larger than the 310s on the R34. A few years ago you could preach a GTR upgrade to 324, when the calipers could be bought for reasonable coin. But not any more.

18V leaf blower to blow the dust off and out the door can work, depending on the physical situation of course. Perhaps even better is the completely paranoid approach of using 2 layers. Either 2 identical covers or just some other sheet on top. That top layer can be taken out and beaten clean(ish) and put back on the under layer without anywhere near as much fear that the paint will see it. It's all just a balancing act between money, time and paranoia.

A mental note to keep in mind. That 4 days of dust that would have been on the car sits on the cover. If you don't get it off the cover before you unwrap the car, especially if you just pull it off and roll it up, then the dust finds its way to the clean side and sits there as a ready made abrasive for next time it goes on.

Almost a reversion to WMI.

Eugh! Luck of the draw, I reckon. All the possible variables probably come into play wrt how any given engine (built or factory) will go in this area. Piston material, piston-bore clearance, ring pack specification, all the possible choices that might be made about coated piston crowns and skirts and how hard the ignition timing is pushed and so on (which all then reflect onto the thermals of the piston and how close it ends up running to the bore wall, etc) will likely have an impact. And the problem is, unless you have probably hundreds of near identical engines under your belt, each with only one or two differences from another, you'll struggle to pull the statistics out as to what is causing the performance differences. For mine, if I was worried about trying to deliberately build an engine to minimise this blowby, and specifically with E85 in mind, then I'd ponder whether it was wise to build it to run really really tight piston-bore clearances, like, as tight or tighter than anyone thinks is sensible, and put anti-friction coating on the skirts (as insurance), and possibly coat the crowns to minimise the heat they pick up, so that they will be less likely to use up all the clearance given to them cold, and other such decisions directed toward keeping the gaps as close as possible. And then....probably still a lottery, because maybe there's something else which is more dominant.

To be fair, if it's mounted under the car, as it would be with most returnless setups, it's not as if it will get looked at very often. But it is a very valid point that you couldn't trust the differential pressure reading at all unless all the fuel was being pushed through it. But even so - the actual dP through the filter will depend on the size of the fuel pump. If you have a small pump, a clean filter will read a (much**) lower dP than the same clean filter would with a much bigger pump. So the gauge should never be used as an absolute measure anyway. You would need to note the reading on a fresh clean filter and clean/replace when the dP goes up from that reading noticeably. I'm guessing that their instructions would say as much because the spec on the filter clearly shows different pressure drops across it at different flow rates, so they're right across the issue. **This because dP will increase with the square of flow.

This is the reason that factory returnless setups use a fixed pressure reg with no MAP reference.

I wouldn't bother. It's all hidden under the boots anyway. I certainly only worried about for about as long as it took to verify that it all went back together without any banging and knocking and looked and worked fine.

I think the Microtech dash itself might be too ugly to keep looking at. They are.....pretty old now. Never were attractive, only getting uglier as flash new stuff comes to market.

The top one. Pretty please. Now you have to find that lid!

I think Matt was talking to me. It's not that money is an issue. It's just that once you pick off one scab, you have to pick them all off, and you end up doing the door trims, and then something else (say, the dash, even though it is almost perfect it is 30 years old and does not look new any more) starts to look scaly and down the rabbit hole we go. Plus, flocking is not a hard wearing surface, so it's not gunna last long on an armrest. Needs to be leather/pleather. I have alcantara(ish) seats now, so I need to step my game up if I'm going to trim anything.

If you could print me a hinge (that would work, which might be hard for a printed part) I'd happily send you beer. I made mine by using some mystery plastic sheet (nylon or something) about 2mm thick and partially scoring it to fold it to make the hinge. Worked, but was always on a limited future.

They're miserable things at this age. The top hinge on mine broke and I made a replacement that then broke a few years later and I haven't gotten back to fix it again. And the vinyl on top is cracked like the elbow point on the armrests does and now I have to open a vein and talk to a motor trimmer!

Does it have the lid also? The lid on these is shorter than the lid on the normal lower armrest.

Paper filter elements for petrol are generally ~10 micron. And once they have any sort of filter cake on them, they tend to filter even finer.

What he means is the reg is mounted somewhere off rail, say on the guard or firewall and returns to tank from there. A T takes fuel from the supply side of the reg over to the fuel rail and the rail is dead head, just like a returnless system. The disadvantage of any returnless/semi-returnless system is that the fuel sits in the rail until it is used, so you do have higher possibility of heat soak related problems I wouldn't even bother. Why bother having the reg in the engine bay and a return line? Just put the reg at the rear of the car like a true returnless system. If you're going to put the reg in the engine bay, just plumb the rail up properly, like everyone else has always done. It's a piss or get off the pot situation here.

And there's the reason. The shifter hole is further back in the autos. No, there is nothing you can do to move the driveline backwards. It's not necessary. Every manual swapped R32 has the same thing. It just stresses the rubber boot a bit when you cover it all back up.

Never seen it done. The easiest way to put some gauges in is 52mm stepper gauges in a 3 wide single DIN panel between the radio and the air con.