GTSBoy

100% street use, Intima SR. Absolutely no complaints.

What he^ said. The fact that rear main seals frequently need to be changed during the service life of the engine and the desire to be able to do it without having to pull the engine/sump is the reason why the seal is retained the way that it is. Just clean up the corners of where the retainer goes even more thoroughly than the rest of the job before putting the new sealant on. And as said above, a little extra dab in the corners never hurts.

That's the spirit!

Realistically, that's a chalk and cheese comparison. His RTV will be set off completely squished as a nice thin film that should have changed not at all when the bolt torque was released and changed again not at all when torqued back up. It's not as if the two surfaces actually moved apart. There might have been a tiny amount of internal tension introduced into the RTV, but if it doesn't have enough compliance to handle that, it has no role being used for the things we use it for!

Considered it! It seems that our rocket surgeon has taken himself off to be an expert on Aliexpress lip extensions and body kit bullshit, in a part of the forum that I never visit. He hasn't been seen in the useful part of the forum for a week or so.

It was my understanding that the RB26 was the same same as the RB20. The idle position was 100% determined by the switch on the RB20. The TPS potentiometer was not used for idle at all. And in fact, the potentiometer on the RB20 was only used for the auto transmission!!! The ECU paid it no heed. Of course, I might be wrong about that on the 26. But seeing as the 26 ECU was just a slightly glorified version of the 20 ECU, I have been willing to believe they used the same strategy. And further of course, maybe because the 26 was ITB fed they found they needed to actually use the potentiometer for the ECU. I could look it up in the manual, but really cannot be arsed. I might have even been schooled on this point before. It was only on the R33/RB25 era that Nissan abandoned a physical switch in favour of using the potentiometer's value as the determinant for idle position (Which was a pretty shit idea considering how much trouble it's caused people over the years. It was almost certainly done because it was cheaper than having a switch too.) It is this that has led to so much confusion between RB20 and RB25 owners.

It's never been difficult on that vintage of Nissan stuff. RB20 is same same. I just used to adjust it so that even the very slightest movement off idle would cause the injectors to do the old double pulse thing (which is the accel enrich thing that they do). You literally just listen for them to go click-click-click-clickclick.

I had a good dig around Quaife a while back. There are hints that they can do a diff for R200s, but there was some caveats around spline counts and it was absolutely unclear what style of stub shaft it would take and so on. It was enough to raise a small spectre of hopefulness without being convincing. Hence my language in my post above. I think the MFactory thing is probably subject to the same caveats. I'm thinking I need to buy a 350Z diff and shafts and put them in the shed for that rainy day also.

Yeah, 225 on a 9" is....not advisable. 235 sits straight on an 8. 225 is already slightly stretched on an 8. Note that these are for "typical" tyres in those sizes and there are always some models of tyre that are relatively fat or skinny compared to the typical ones.

No. Ancient shitbox. The sort of diagnostics that your mechanic is talking about were probably only available on top end Mercs and other leading edge stuff. A 1997 Nissan is barely more sophisticated than a 1987 Nissan.

I actually think that a 3.69 ratio in a normal 5 speed RB25 car would be good. You seldom need the shortness of 1st gear, and I often find myself wishing for a 6th taller than my 5th (any 110 km/h road would benefit). Speedo correction with my cable drive speedo is the only thing that has held me back all these years. There is also a helical for R200s made by MFactory available here in Oz for <$2k. Could be worth a look. I'd really like it if Wavetrac had one for normal R200s, or I could convince myself that the Quaife option is real. They're all proper money though. And I have more recently learnt that helicals are definitely subject to wear and do not last forever.

It will be fine.

Except that it is clearly too low at the rear (and presumably at the front) and will handle like a bucket of puss. The suspension arcs are not supposed to work with the wheel pushed that far up into the well. If you're going to run it that low then you really should be using different bushes to push the rear subframe up towards the floorpan as far as it will go, and drop spindles. Drop spindles at both ends. The GKTech ones are good, and you will need/want to use their upper and lower arms with them also.

Or you pull a bulb out and have a geez. Play "what does it look like?"

It's also possible, with some pad compounds, to bake in little diamond hard sections when they get overheated. This tends to happen on the high spots associated with surface grooves on the rotor. The pad gets squeezed really hard just on the high spots and can get really hot just there. These hard spots can squeal. This is one of the drivers towards the recommendation to scuff the pads down on a suitably abrasive surface to obtain some fresh material.

I read it as new chat thread and wondered what was wrong with the old one.

Good stuff. There had to be a better way than bodging in shitty switches. Now you just have to keep in mind that when you don't have one headlight working, it's just as likely to be the switch needing some love as it is a blown globe!

Take the cluster out and look at the globes where they are bayoneted into the instrument panel. Could be loose/dirty or the globes could have broken filaments that sometimes touch and provide a circuit and sometimes just hang with an airgap.

A word of caution. Unless you were explicitly told that they are GT-R Brembos, they could also be from a Z chassis car (or slightly less easily, from some other car altogether). My caution might not be necessary, because the pads could be the same anyway, but just on the off chance that the calipers is different and has a different pad, double check the pad dimensions before committing to anything.

You could do it with relays. I have 1 relay at each headlight (as well as the original switch). This is a standard double pole switch. The two contacts you see on it are one circuit. There's another 2 contacts on the other side for the other circuit. A triple pole just has 3 sets. But do not mistake a double pole double throw switch for a triple pole. A DPDT switch has 6 contacts, but the centre contacts are the "commons" and the switch rocks back and forward between the two end terminals as outputs. So you have an "at rest" circuit and a "switched on" circuit.

You need to keep the 3 circuits separate. You either need a double pole and single pole switch, or a triple pole switch.

Hmm. That might be a bit misleading. The P for positive doesn't really mean positive static pressure. It just means that the the crankcase is positively (as in, definitely) ventilated. The driving force for said ventilation is suction from the inlet manifold. The engine is ideally under slight negative pressure when the PCV is open, but will indeed likely be slightly positive when the engine is at idle and the PCV is likely closed. Nevertheless, Murray's point is valid. You can't properly operate the engine with a crack in the cover. If it breathes at all, it will cause some problems. And it will let oil out.

Yuh, which was how I ended up with RS4. Well, also, I was expecting them to be better than RS3, and it is debatable whether or not they are.

Except that I will be going away from RS4 and back to Yokos. Will do AD09 on the basis of expectation that they will be at least as good as the AD08Rs, which have been the nicest tyres I have used in the last 10 years. The RS4s are roaring. Getting louder and louder as they wear down. Actually sound like a Patrol on big mud tyres now. Never impressed me enough (compared to AD08Rs) to justify this sort of shitty non-Jap east asian tyre noise. They're nearly as bad as KU36s were.

These things are true.