GTSBoy

I don't think the GKTech ones even have motors. Just manual. It's a different beast cf a real Ganador.

Welcome. But what do you mean "start with an R31"? Do you mean that's the first one you're allowed to buy? If so, hell no. Some important points. Australian market R31s are not the same as JDM R31s. They were typically owned by broke-arse flanny wearing fishtank swap offerers, are all thoroughly stuffed from elevnty years of neglect and bong smoke. JDM R31s are as rare as hen's teeth. Used to be the ugly duckling compared to R32s (and some might say the R33 and later also, but they would be wrong!!). But now, a good R31 is probably even more desirable than a good R32, even if the car is notionally not as good as an R32, simply because they are that one more step old skool retro JDM yo! The sharper squared off lines became cool again. I'd give a limb for one of the hot ones. JDM R31s are therefore not cheap. Any and all other Skylines (R32-4) are also not cheap. Now worth at least double what they were 20 years ago. Buy what you like/can afford. There may or may not be overlap between those two!

MightyCarMods and several others like them have good YouTube videos on doing this.

Oh. For f**k's sake. 50 thou is 1.27mm which is so close to 1mm that you can just pretend that it is the same and the worst that can happen is that the duration measured at one of them will be a couple of degrees different from the other. The guy at Kelford probably should have heard about measuring duration at 50 thou because he works for a cam manufacturer and 50 thou was the standard for a million years, but it is totally understandable that he doesn't know because he is likely <30 years old, lives and works in a country that has been metricated since before 1970 and will only be using SI units in their manufacturing process because they are civilised and not trapped under the weight of 300 years of 'Murica f**k Yeah yeehaw freedom units like Crow f**king Cams is.

Just add a couple of degrees. The lift difference is literally almost nothing.

50 thou is 1.27mm. You really gunna try to get someone to add or subtract a couple of degrees from the 1.27 mm durations to make 1mm durations?

Is that caliper a 2-pot sliding caliper? The R3X 4-pots are 40.44mm pistons. So with twice as many of those as a 2 pot, it is equivalent to 57.2mm pistons in a 2-pot. R3X piston area = 4 x pi x 40.44^2 / 4. And the 4s cancel nicely, so it's just pi x d^2. = 5137.7 mm2 Entrail piston area (assuming 2 pot 44.4mm) = 2 x pi x 44.4^2 / 4 = 3096.6 mm2. Seems like a substantial change. 165.9%. BM50 MC over BM44 MC is 113.7%. Pedal travel might increase a bit.

What size is the existing MC? R32 GTSt is BM44, which is just under 1". Like 15/16 or something.

Hmm. I've pondered whether it was worth looking at these. I start this thinking at the rear, and it sort of drifts forwards to include the front for commonality purposes. Was aware of the 20mm drop and the consequent need for me to see if I have enough grooves on my Billy B6s to jack them up enough to compensate. Was not aware that there was a significant risk of them sticking out in odd places and fouling on the wheels, etc. Will influence my thinking. Is that a plastic cap on the kingpin thread?

I heard you typing that from Bunbury!

Well, of course Jaycar will have LEDs, but....there are a million other places to get them. eBay, Aliexpress, Farnell, Alltronics, Aztronics, a high level brake light from another type of car at the wreckers....

Well, there's probably nothing wrong with those caps, but they're easy to test for ESR and swap if needed, so go right ahead. That chip looks bad. Are the black contacts burnt? From heat? Anyway, if they are damaged thus, then my original point remains valid. Wiring problem somewhere else (ie, outside the respective modules). Cause a short somewhere and the high current runs to places it will do damage.

Yeah, well, what's worse is that the DIY link above used RGB LEDs driven to make white. They could have made red. Maybe not as bright, but then winding up the brightness by going white and then filtering down to red with the red plastic diffuser is probably going to have the same effect.

Really, after just half an hour? There is no way that I would want an engine with only 8.4:1. What management are you using? Anything with good management for knock control should have no fear of running at least mid 9s.

If you're just changing the CW&P, then nothing else in the diff changes and you don't need to consider the axles (neither the stubs or driveshafts). I presume that it is nothing more than CW&P required at each end of the car, seeing as it's been done any number of times by others. If it was a circus, you'd hear about it being a circus.

As far as I know the spot that breaks most commonly is on the exhaust side, adjacent to #4 or between 4/5. So any unnecessary weakness on the exhaust side, even if it's not is the "usual" spot, can't be a good thing. And between 3 & 4 is not so far away from where the block likes to jump to pieces.

I would say that that is the beginning of the end for that block. Is that the exhaust side?

This is the key statement again. There is no point in trying to pick a number to make the flycuts because you're as likely to get it wrong too close as wrong too loose and one will stop your assembly effort as bad as waiting to measure anyway, and the other is a waste.

I love my helical in the rear*. It makes the drive feel like it is coming from the outside wheel - even more so than a conventional LSD. *When it's actually installed that is. It's been out for so long that I think I've forgotten what it feels like. Must get back onto that when I get home again! Yeah. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Enough handbrake to get me out of the ditch can be enough to ruin the clutch!

There's some driveways I can't get my car in/out because it props a rear wheel halfway through and loses all drive. You can't bull run it either because they're the sort of driveway that would kill the front bumper if you tried it.

Ah. I should have thought of that. The speedo drive being on the transfer case means that the gearbox isn't part of the equation. The TX case is the same thing regardless of auto or manual. In which case, I revoke my claim.

Helical diffs absolutely cannot chatter like clutch diffs.

It is vert unlikely that the speed sensor from the auto will fit into the manual. The boxes are from completely different manufacturers. They don't swap between auto and manual on any of the RWD boxes, so there's no reason to expect that they do on the AWD (which I've never stopped to think about before).

You need to trailer it to an auto-electrician before it burns to the ground.

These things are the only things that really determine your power. Can't make more power than the injectors will flow (which maxes out in the territory of 1000 engine HP on 98) and can't make more power than a GT3582 will at the boost and flow you'd get out on the top RH edge of the map against a 2.5l engine (whilst maintaining a reasonable compressor efficiency so it doesn't get all hot and stupid, of course). This may or may not be a good choice.