
GTSBoy
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Everything posted by GTSBoy
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GTR R33 - Removing Rear Propshaft (Front Part)
GTSBoy replied to proline's topic in General Maintenance
Just take the whole tailshaft out and reassemble it on the floor. I would have never attempted to split the CV for a gearbox removal. The whole tailshaft is like 10 minutes extra work. -
R32 GTR Trans install
GTSBoy replied to Jjtxaz24's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Looks like it would all go in and out through the engine bay like my RB + 25DET box did. :p -
R32 GTR Trans install
GTSBoy replied to Jjtxaz24's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
It will simply be a complete pain in the cock to do it on the floor. Possibly to the point that you can't manage it and/or end up hurting yourself. It's a big, heavy piece of crap with asymmetric weight distribution and that whole "rotate it and rotate it back" business is hard enough when you're standing under it on a hoist with the trans on a proper gearbox stand. More often than not you get it on and the clutch hasn't aligned properly and it has to come back off again anyway! If I had to do what you're doing I'd prefer to do engine and box together, out and in through the big hole in the top! -
VQ25DD Timing Chain/Engine replacement
GTSBoy replied to Spoddy's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
You're not swapping a 25DD with any other engine without it being a big exercise. A proper timing chain inspection requires the front covers to come off so you can see the state of the tensioners and guides (which might be worn) and assess the amount of chain stretch. -
Frost plug in behind thermostat housing?
GTSBoy replied to Both Feet Down's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
I think it is one and I wouldn't try to take it out unless it has a problem. -
It's not the Dayco, whether it fits or not. Buy a Nissan one.
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RB20DE NEO accelaration/cruising "problem"
GTSBoy replied to Kapr's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
It's not just the cleanliness of the sensor element that can cause problems. Dry and cracked solder joints inside the casing, or corroded pins in the plug/socket can cause shitty behaviour. CAS, ditto. The fuel gauge is of no importance. The pump and the gauge have nothing to do with each other except being in the sample place. The pump might be dying and giving low pressure, either all the time or intermittently. Or the fuel filter could be shitty or fuel hose could be falling apart and causing moving blockage. You need to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and keep it on unti you experience the shitty behaviour and see if the pressure goes to poop at that time. Injectors could be crook. But.....as to maintenance, they are essentially maintenance free. 20 year old injectors should be fine if they haven't been fed a diet of dirty fuel. And injectors are seldom intermittent. They're either dirty or not. Although, having said that, the connectors could be a problem, as per the other items. -
RB20DE NEO accelaration/cruising "problem"
GTSBoy replied to Kapr's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
This is either going to be (in no particular order); Bad AFM wiring connection, or dirty AFM element, Bad CAS wiring connection, or possibly dirty optical disk, Bad fuel pump. As in, possibly dying, ore maybe it has a dodgy wiring connection. Could also be the FPCM (assuming there is one). Maybe bad O2 sensor, but would seem unlikely from the symptoms. -
Well, yeah.
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The physical location of the plugs for reverse and neutral switches, the absence of the inhibitor switch wiring. You basically have to remake it if you don't have it, because the R & N switches are not down on the side of the auto box.
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It's much better to have the manual driver's side loom and swap it in.
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I just don't know about JMS, is all. I bought my R32 through them....24 years ago. Then their name got dragged through the mud with all the importing stuff other than cars shenanigans, change of ownership, change of ownership, etc etc. Gone from my sphere of knowledge.
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Rb20det valve springs same as 20de?
GTSBoy replied to Both Feet Down's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Dunno. There probably are. The RB25DEs are known to valve float at boosts that wouldn't happen on a DET. If you're just hoping to avoid having to buy some good springs.....you're worrying about the wrong things. Spending money in the engine is a good thing. -
You gotta stop posting on your phone. And whilst I can see people using imperial length units and even psi and similar, because those are still very convenient units to work with if you're familiar with them.....pounds as a unit of weight is just cracked. I mean, the pound when talking about weight is not even the same pound in psi. I can freely convert between BTUs and Joules in my head. Same with feet, inches, yard, to SI. Same with most pressure units. Same with some viscosity units, etc etc etc. But imperial weights and forces are stupid. They have 9 different sorts of tons, weight and force units that sound the same but have a factor of 32.2. For some reason they like to measure pressure as a column height of some random liquid, then wonder why their shit doesn't work on Mars.
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Lives in Sydney, talks in pounds. Weird. And, on that theme, you're not going to find wheels that save you much weight over what you've got. Not trying to dissuade you from putting whatever wheels on you like, just pointing out that there's not a lot of weight saving to be had there. Ditto the front seats. You want to put a road legal seat in it, expect it to not weigh much less than the original seat. If you're serious about getting the weight out of it, there's speakers and the stock amplifier, all the HICAS componentry, the tool kit and boot lining/trim, rear seatbelts, headlining, interior lights, carpet and underlay, rear half of console. Removing much of that will save you the equivalent of a couple of bags of shopping and make it a miserable place to be. (Just pointing out that lightweighting a street car is a bit of a waste of time).
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Jaustech have a good rep. I can also point you to someone who will hate me for sending another dirty datto his way as he'd much rather work on Supras. But he also knows everything there is to know about RBs, Skylines in general, and all the other dirty dattos.
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Mod Plate and Engineers Certificate
GTSBoy replied to nitznair's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
If you do this.... ...then you don't have to worry so much about this.... Besides, if it were me, I'd be wanting to know I had a shop close to home that is useful for such things anyway. -
Mod Plate and Engineers Certificate
GTSBoy replied to nitznair's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
Besides which - you really want to get the engineer on board and everything that you need to do agreed before you do the work. The fact that the car has to go to QLD for the work is not sufficient justification for making dealing with the engineer harder (because of distance). -
Mod Plate and Engineers Certificate
GTSBoy replied to nitznair's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
Yes, it's a thing, and that is why you would be wasting your time to get the mod plate first. When yo first asked your question, I took your meaning to be that the car was already engine converted and mod plated in QLD. And yes, you will need to do a brake test/demonstration of some sort. Murray got in before I typed any more, so I shan't. Except to say, who is to say that your big brake kit actually does what it says on the box? -
Mod Plate and Engineers Certificate
GTSBoy replied to nitznair's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
Oh, it's not quite as bad as all that here in SA. The cops can and will be dicks, but not always. If you have the paperwork on hand for mods that have been through Regency and approved if/when you are pulled over, then the decent cops will go over that and compare with what they see. An obvious swap from a VQ to an LS is not hard to understand. If a brake upgrade is required and was on the car when it was inspected, it would be very unreasonable to suspect that the big brakes were pulled off and replaced with the stockers. No-one would want to do that even if they were a tightarse meth addicted loser from the outer suburbs. But, if the LS had a seriously lumpy idle, massive exhaust noise, MAFless intake, etc etc, ie all signs that it has since been modified (and would not have likely been approved at Regency inspection), then you can assume that the cops will just sticker it and make you prove it's as-approved. The usual story here is people get a car inspected with coilovers on it, which is doable, then go and drop it into the weeds the day after the inspection. "But it was approved yesterday" means nothing, as Nightcrawler suggests. -
Mod Plate and Engineers Certificate
GTSBoy replied to nitznair's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
I'm pretty sure that there is no reciprocal recognition between the 2 states' agencies. I would be surprised if having a QLD mod plate and supporting doco didn't make it a lot easier to convince a NSW engineer to give you a cert. You would still have to satisfy whatever demands the engineer has on top of whatever differences NSW will have cf QLD. -
R34 Manual Conversion Speedo Issues.
GTSBoy replied to Pure_Sincerity's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
You know. I'm a bit dense. I should have thought of that! It's not as if I didn't fit an R34 NA box to my R32 at one point, and removed the electronic sender from it!