GTSBoy

Something FWD, possibly imported 2nd hand from Japan. I haven't been there for a long while, but they typically had Peroduas and other crap out of Malaysia, etc. So it used to be Daihatsu and Mitsubishi based stuff. There will probably be a flood of Korean/Thai/Chinese stuff now. None of it will be fast.

It's too much for an R33, but then I'm not into cruise ships. Your 30-32k is over AU$50k. There would be R33s changing hands over here for that much. And as Ben said, it's not a normal R33 - it is quite worked over. And whilst we say that mods add no value, the reality is that they do - just not as much as the seller would like. Buy it. Don't daily it. You will be fine. Expect to lose money on it if you do not sell it before the prices crash again. We have maybe 10 years until fossil fuel cars become difficult propositions. Collector only, Sunday only, that sort of thing. With the market eventually stripped of people who want to drive them around a lot, the prices cannot stay high forever.

It's not something that is necessary on RWD Skylines that haven't been lowered too far. If you keep the wheel centre to arch dimension around 345-350 mm or so, it's all good. What leads you to want to correct roll centre on your car?

And just to follow up on this - the RB20DE was a non-turbo engine. There were no intercoolers for them. As I said above wrt the RB20E, there were probably no aftermarket kits specifically for the DE either. But it hardly matters, because the intercooler doesn't care what engine it is connected to (so long as the cooler is not too small). The intercooler hangs out the front of the car at the other end of a few neters of pipework.

There will be no such thing. No-one will have made a kit for an RB20E at any time. Why would they, when there were the RB20DE and DET to base things off of? Money spent putting a turbo and injectors and management upgrades etc etc etc, on a base model forkilft counterweight like a single cam 2L six would be better spent snorting cocaine off a dead hooker's arse. The RB20E is a slow, torqueless, powerless slug of a thing. Even if there had been some deluded JDM crowd in the mid 90s who decided to put out a kit, they would have sold about 3 of them and none of the parts would still exist. So, if you want to turbo the engine you have, you are not looking at anything "easy" or "cheap" or "off the shelf" or "off another RB20". You are looking at a complete custom install. You are going to need to modify the existing exhaust manifold, or fabricate another. You are going to need injectors. You are going to need a fuel pump, You are going to need a clutch (because trust me, the stocker will not hold 50% more torque). You're going to need to completely fabricate the intake piping, from filter to turbo, turbo to cooler, cooler to TB. And because you have to fabricate all these things, it really doesn't matter what turbo you buy (ie, it could be from an RB20DET, or it could be from a 25DET, or it could be a Toyota turbo (think CT20) or it could be a Mitsubishi turbo (think TD04), or it could be a brand newer Garrett GT25. From the perspective of making it fit, it will be all the same. Ditto the intercooler. You just need a core that's about the right size to fit and with tank inlet/outlet that will work with the appropriate pipe route. Mounting it and plumbing it is then all up to you to work out. At least fuelling, management, clutch, etc are all going to be same-same with other Cefiros and Skylines. Just buy 2nd hand or aftermarket rated to do the job. By the time you have done all this, you will have spent approx 3x what it would cost to simply drop in an RB25DE, and would only barely be faster. And the RB25DE would be considered by everyone here to be too slow to both with anyway.

You really shouldn't. No RB20DE came equipped with an intercooler.

You could install an RB20DE intercooler, if there was such a thing.

I'd say he copy pasted the whole advert without trimming off the confusing shit.

Arguably these cars are all so fast that an H pattern manual makes no sense anyway. Neither from a "driving engagement" or "driving enjoyment" sense, or any sort of additional "control" over what the driveline is doing. To obtain best enjoyment at the sort of speeds that these cars are intended to be driven at, then 2 hands on the wheel and nera-instant automated-manual-box shifts are the only way to go. Planning your transmission choice based on 2s pull freeway onramps and tootling around the 'burns is a nonsense. The R35 has always been just a bigger nastier Evo. Pure triumph of technology over physics and driver ability. This is the reason why it has never been all that popular. The various Porches, on the other hand, regardless of whatever level of chassis assistance might be built in, have always been aimed at pleasing the driver and rewarding effort. That's why they can sell far more than they make. I do of course make plenty of allowance for badge snobbery. I like (some) Nissans, but would take a rattly old track-whore GT3 over an R35 any day.

If you're going to run 98, then 1000cc injectors are good for about 1000 engine HP. If E85, then maybe 750ish. That is a lot of power - you're unlikely to need much more. The 1000s will tune better and run better than the 1200s. I cannot see the point in the 1200s unless you're proposing to need that much power.

Not so safe in a crash either.

If it does it a bit worse on overrun, then it is likely to be valve stem seals. As turbo seals - there are two possible leak paths. 1) Out to the compressor, which goes to the engine and should get burnt, mostly cleanly, and 2) Out to the exhaust housing, which then burns in the exhaust and will make more smoke. Further, compression rings make compression. Oil control rings stop oil moving up in the chamber. It is possible to have damaged oil control rings and still have decent compression rings.

Walbro is TI.

Red spot is a good spot. Before the BOV offtake is also good. In the red location you will have fewer strange fueling behaviours when the BOV opens. With the AFM in the upstream (of the BOV offtake) location you will get rich fueling on BOV release (which probably won't matter too much because this is a throttle closing/closed condition anyway.

Stock. If it will idle on an injector (and of course, with a decent computer, the engine will idle on 1000s) then it can run ANY power level above that (up to the limit of the injector capacity, of course). Most of your list of engine mods would contribute to being able to run up to the limit of what the turbos can provide - except for one thing. I would not attempt to do so without a significant oil pump upgrade, and then paying attention to the engine breathing and oil draining situation - as per the oil control thread (or the last 100-150 pages of it anyway).

I would prefer being able to stop for fuel anywhere I like rather than the fuel stations with E85 being 15-20km apart.

Nothing causes front turbo failure in particular. Rear turbo failure is more common, for the known reasons. So, yes, oil supply issues are the #1 suspect. But it can also just be dumb random luck on behalf of the turbo, and it could be caused by the turbo ingesting something (which doesn't happen without seeing signs of it on the compressor wheel).

You're not getting 10.5s on it at either end, without wider guards. So just forget that. The real question will be whether you could ever get 9.5s on the front. They might just be able to squeeze on the back, given camber arms. I go back to the one true known thing, which is that R33 GTR wheels fit and they are 9" +30. A 9.5 will need to find up to an extra half inch of clearance, probably on the outside. it might be better if there was a +25 option. The other thing to remember is that the rear subframe tends to sit off to one side, so you have different guard to wheel alignment from side to side. This is fine most of the time, but when you are trying to cram absolutely everything in......

This is the best outcome. You will now not waste any money on that forklift counterweight currently stuck in your engine bay.

And do you know why? Or are you just proceeding from ignorance?

Just go straight for 1000cc Bosch ID14s from somewhere reputable. A ~340L/h TI pump would be fine. Wired properly, of course.

Yes. It's easy. Only with the caveat that you will have to convert to pull clutch (which kinda sucks) and you will have to fabricobble a speedo drive together using one from an early 90s Navara (same big box as R33/4, cable speedo). Oh, and of course you will need the correct gearbox crossmember (I can't remember if it is A, B or C and it probably depends on whether the car was auto or manual to start with also), and you need to get the front part of an R33 or 4 tailshaft cut and shut onto the R32 tailshaft (the cut and shut happens in front of the centre bearing section - you cannot just use the whol efront section from any other car - nothing is the right length etc).

Add turbo, enjoy life. If not turbo, add supercharger. If not supercharger, add nitrous. Anything else will be a disappointment. Remember, the RB20E is a very small, very low torque engine designed to do one thing and one thing only. Which is to move cars from point A to point B at the lowest possible speed while minimising Japanese registration tax.

No, you cannot. As I said above. A twin cam engine has the lobes for the inlet valves on one cam and the lobes for the exhaust valves on the other cam. A single cam engine has all the lobes for all the valves on the same cam. There is absolutely no way to make this work going in either direction.

Yes, you will need a suitable sized T piece, more fuel hose, a suitable pressure gauge (6 bar should be good) and some hose clamps. insert the T piece in the line between the filter and the fuel rail. Don't cut the existing line. Just undo one end and use some fresh hose for the two** spare legs on the T piece. **Two if you have the gauge remote located on a short length of hose. Only one if the gauge is straight onto the T with fittings.