Jump to content
SAU Community

GTSBoy

Admin
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    19,170

  • Joined

  • Days Won

    318

  • Feedback

    100%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    It's not as if Nissan ever wrote a service manual covering this stuff.
  2. GTSBoy
    You have it in your hand. Have you tried putting power on it straight from a 12v supply? Looked inside for broken connections or exploded LEDs?
  3. GTSBoy
    So, if you do not know what fittings are needed on your turbo, then don't buy anything until you have the turbo.
  4. GTSBoy
    So much smarter to just wait.
  5. GTSBoy
    Again - you have the car in your possession. Do the measurements yourself.
  6. GTSBoy
    Not for an R33. The R32 GTR wiring diagrams are posted on here, by me, sometime in the last couple of years. The ATTESA CU's are not the same, but the power and earth terminals might be.
  7. GTSBoy
    All of that is true. What is also true is that when you put a space saver on a car you should drive very gently and carefully and not like a meth addled 19yo disco chick.
  8. GTSBoy
    http://www.precisionshims.com.au/products/flat
  9. GTSBoy
    That monitors the voltage where the turbo timer is connected. Will not tell you if you have a problem where the ATTESA CU is powered. You need a multimeter, manually probe the power connections while you wait for the AC to cause the light to come on.
  10. GTSBoy
    Why would you do that? The body is one big piece of steel wire.
  11. GTSBoy
    Is it RWD or AWD? If RWD, just never put the spare on the rear. Double swap front to left if need be. If AWD, again, probably do the same and just don't exert enough right foot to transfer any torque to the front axle?
  12. GTSBoy
    No. Yes, sounds like a wiring fault, like insulation damaged on 2 adjacent wires (one from AC, the other from ATTESA CU to dash, for example). No. But it does sound like you have at least a version of the usual mode door actuator failure.
  13. GTSBoy
    If we knew what was wrong with it we could answer this question. These sorts of across the internet diagnostics are close to impossible. It always turns out to be something like "a rat ate one piece of wire and a solar flare damaged this other component and I found a stick of salami in the boot that was crimping a hose over". Take it to a decent mechanic/auto elec.
  14. GTSBoy
    Yes, because.... implies that there was a pod filter of some sort on there and some of these use oiled fabric/foam filter elements, not paper. Which is a very bad idea on AFM equipped cars So it was a sensible question. Have you got any ECU fault codes? Have you got a gaping hole in a boost pipe somewhere?
  15. GTSBoy
    The 3.6ish ratio out of S chassis diff not tall enough for you? Can't help on the shafts. Have just been assuming that because they are the big GTR style 6 bolt ones, that you might end up running GTR or maybe Z32 shafts. Or maybe Driveshaft Shop ones if you're baller. Here's a similar-ish thread from not too long ago.
  16. GTSBoy
    Yeah, but it's connected to the atmo side of the turbos, so there's no boost to leak. It's just a big, lazy cludge.
  17. GTSBoy
    Yeesh. At least they didn't ruin an R32. </Fu(kin' Transformers bullshit>
  18. GTSBoy
    The (stock) BOVs live down there, on the intercooler return pipe. That pipe there is the return that goes back across to the other side of the engine bay to return the air to the turbo inlets.
  19. GTSBoy
    You can't edit your posts after a couple of hours. This to prevent a brand of shenanigans that we used to have trouble with. Just report it and ask an admin to do what you want done.
  20. GTSBoy
    That line that runs from the closer T piece and heads to or under the crossover pipe. Is it connected to the crossover pipe nipple there or is it connected to a steel pipe that goes further forward?
  21. GTSBoy
    Yeah, well, obviously that's only at lowish loads, because we're not going to run anywhere leaner than about 12.5:1 with decent boosts on board. And you'd have to be somewhat of a numpty to not set up closed loop cruise and idle. Wouldn't you?
  22. GTSBoy
    You would be best to retain a cat. A nice big low cell count cat will do something to clean up the exhaust and largely prevent the big black stain that would be a giveaway to the above if you just had a 1 cell cat.
  23. GTSBoy
    So.....get Jesse Streeter or one of the other guys running export businesses in Japan to buy it and send it to you.
  24. GTSBoy
    Yeah, wot he ^ sed. The vac line has to be from the plenum.
  25. GTSBoy
    Just take the whole tailshaft out and reassemble it on the floor. I would have never attempted to split the CV for a gearbox removal. The whole tailshaft is like 10 minutes extra work.
×
×
  • Create New...