GTSBoy

This describes me exactly. Not because I don't want to drive the car, but because I've been stuck in WA for most of the last 18 months and only get home once in a blue moon. I've been driving a series of nasty, forgettable hire cars (En-Trail, HyStrionic, ASeXual, etc) that all have push to start. When I get home, the spiders have completely colonised the car and I have to get the leaf blower out to remove the buildup of detritus and chisel the crap off the windscreen before I can move it.

Yeah, that's the GPT 3 chatbot that I've been bitching about and reported every one of its posts that I've seen so far. They must be destroyed.

Ahhh. Greg's rage is palpable from here. A version of Greg's ragey recommendation would be to look at https://support.haltech.com/portal/en/kb/articles/transmission-control and see that it should be possible to get this transmission (or, more sensibly, a turbo transmission, for the longevity reasons raged about) working direct from a Haltech ECU. Having said that, in light of I can't speak for your tuner's willingness to get involved in trying to program the transmission control. He might not know that it's possible. He might be scared, or too lazy, or any of a number of other reasons. Regardless, as per Greg's rage out - there is wiring to be done. You have to obtain all the wiring that is currently present at the TCU, work out which wire is which input and which output (and which might be able to be ignored, if they were originally signals to/from the ECU) and then marshal them to the Haltech. But.....this now I think leads us to the answer. The TCU is probably having a shit fit because you have removed the factory ECU. It will not be happy about that, because they like to talk to each other. The TCU relies on some info from the ECU to do its thing, and not having that would be enough to make it go to limp mode. So, some of Greg's rant regarding putting the factory ECU back in, in parallel with the Haltech would be a (shitty) path forward. Just wire it to the Haltech and get someone competent to set it up.

pfffffftt! Easier. Just plug a hack box of whatever type is required for that car and dial up the number you want it to show. No need to fudge with the physical wheels or drive it with a power drill or anything.

You do know that literally every car that has ever been exported from Japan has had a windback, right? Usually more than one.

In that case, your options look to be; Measure the resistance of the airbag connection on the seat you took out. That's the value resistor to connect to the loom plug. Bonus points for setting off the airbag with the multimeter's battery. Just a resistor substitution box onto it, set to some value maybe half what you used on the steering wheel. Gradually increase the value on the substitution box until you stop getting the light. That's the value resistor to connect. American fix. A black sticker over the light on the dashboard. Well, that's not strictly true. If it's an LED on the PCB, you've already missed your opportunity to "pull" the globe by just desoldering the LED from the PCB. Would have taken 2s plus warmup time.

No, it would just be pig rich. But.... if perchance the fuel pressure reg is not working at all and it's still delivering 50 psi once there is some vacuum (when it should drop to 30something psi at idle) then it could be too rich to want to keep running. So, identifying a possible problem with the measurement of the pressure is the first step towards seeing whether there is actually a problem with pressure. Faulty instruments are often worse than no instrument.

Are you describing an opportunity here?

We're staring to get many more threads where we have to suggest a different engine builder/mechanic/tuner/. Too many cases of silly things being believed/said. Nissan valves are in fact quite good, but....they're certainly nowhere near as good as really nice aftermarket valves.

Yuh, I'd start with swaptronics on the TCU also. It's probably a crappy capacitor or solder joint or something equally pissweak. The good news is, if you have to throw it all away, it's relatively easy to run it all from a Haltech now.

Yuh, PS belts are a bit like the inside of the engine. If you touch it, it will f**k up again immediately. I shredded a brand new PS belt. Threw another one on, taking just as much care as the first time (ie, enough) and at some later time had a look in the bay for another reason and found the belt had come off over the front of the pulley and was running with one rib off. WTF!? So the usual full dismantle of the intake piping etc ensued, to provide access to the PS pump area to back it off and prise it back on. Bastard things.

If real (ie an accurate measurement, not from a faulty gauge) then 50 psi is too high. 43psi key on, not running, is correct.

Possible wiring fault.

You asking so you know which side to put them back in? If so, it's pretty easy to work out. The long one won't go in the short hole and the short one won't stay in the long hole. /Pornhub

You don't need a guide. Just start taking the door apart. You'll soon work it out. Not to mention that the factory service manual will have everything you need.

Hmm. Good luck. I realise you're probably trying to save money, but this looks to be an opportunity to put some Ferreas or similar in it.

No, don't know the part number. Just go to a respected diff/trasnsmission shop and obtain. As to the lengths of the stub axles. No, the stubs on VLSDs are different lengths to each other and to every other format of R200 diff.

I don't know. As I said, it realistically doesn't matter anyway. And I also said that the hard pipes you have will somewhat dictate where they go and what they connect to.

Yellow is the oil return. Oil supply will be on the opposite side (the top, which is underneath the turbo in the photo. The other two are water in and out, and it probably doesn't really matter which is which on the turbo itself (seeing as they are arranged horizontally) but obviously one will line up with the block fitting via its hard line and the other will go to the supply, likely via some extra (longer, possibly missing) lines, as stated by @Duncan above.

No. So changing the height of the front subframe is a nonsense. And anyway, the only way that it is ever changed in practice is to space the front subframe down, to allow more room under the bonnet for taller engines (ie, RB30 blocks in R32s). This is the opposite of what's being talked about here.

That's probably because the same fuel is still sitting there in the sensor, getting sensed.

All true. I just follow the policy of fewer high pressure hose connections is better high pressure hose connections. Also, there will always be fuel in the return, and it will get refreshed often enough. You'd have to be on full noise, maxing out the pump capacity such that there is no return flow, continuously, while a substantial change in fuel ethanol content arrived at the engine, for your concerns to be realised as engine damage. Any little burp of the fuel reg to release some fuel will always put some fresh stuff past the sensor.

Ha! That's where the Neo thermostat is set. I don't worry until 110°C.

Oh. My. God. You just thanked a GPT3 chatbot.

Post editing has been gone on these forums for many years. You have about 2hrs after a post is made in which to fix any typos etc. After that, no editing. For good reasons. If you need something changed there is a "report post" button available in the ellipsis (...) menu on the top right of each post. You can ask a moderator/admin to make changes. You might need to proffer more supporting information, if your posted image links are so badly messed up that the forum software can't even work it out. The information required to work out exactly what was posted might not be extractable from the link text mess. As to the better way to do this - I just paste all images directly into the thread. That way we don't end up with threads with dead links to images 5 + years into the future. Of course, if you want to retain control (ie the ability to remove images of your car) then this doesn't work. But then, any time you upload images to the internet you have to assume that they are out there somewhere, available to anyone who know how to look, forever and ever and ever.