
GTSBoy
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Everything posted by GTSBoy
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R32 power steering Light/heavy
GTSBoy replied to Rb25orange's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Just look on the wiring diagram, find the right wiring at the HICAS CU and bridge it there? -
Installing a Lift in the Garage, will this type of lift work?
GTSBoy replied to kevboost7's topic in General Maintenance
Drill. In Australia, even an attached single car carport will be at least 100mm of 25MPa concrete. A shed/garage should be something better. But even a good shed slab is not good enough to put a hoist on. You need piers/beams to carry the load. But those long/low quickjack style things are probably OK on a simple slab because they're not point loaded. They spread the load out along a decent length. Defo best to check the doco to see what they recommend/require though. -
Clunking Noise when I'm shifting
GTSBoy replied to kevboost7's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
It's called driveline lash and it could be caused by absolutely any mechanical connection in the driveline. Diff gears. tailshaft centre bearing, CV joints, driveshaft splines. -
I think you're missing the point. There are no "injectors". There are just nozzles. With injectors, the flow rate depends on the pulse width. The pressure remains high at all times. Atomisation quality depends primarily on the pressure. Low pressure = poor atomisation. High P gives better atomisation. With a nozzle, flow rate depends only on pressure. And, as Ben says, with an incompresssible fluid (ie, pretty much any liquid, including water and meth), the flow rate rises as a function of the square root of pressure. Ie, if you double the pressure, you get 1.4 times as much flow. Or the other way around, if you want double the flow, you need 4x the pressure. If you want half the flow, you only need 1/4 the pressure. (And that's where things start to look grim). Consider what this means for the range of operating pressures you need to cover the flow rate range you want. So, if you were wanting, say, a 10:1 turndown ratio on flow, then you'd need a 100:1 turndown ratio on pressure. What does that look like? Well, your typical pump that you might have available for pumping water in a car (like a fuel pump, or something like one that can live with water in it) can really only manage to produce a few bar of pressure. Maybe 10 if you are very lucky. So, assuming you size that pump and the nozzle to deliver all the water you need at 10 bar, then by the time you are turned down to about 1/3rd of that flow rate you are only getting about 1 bar of pressure on the nozzle. And, atomisation will really suffer below ~1bar. (And, you also need to add your boost pressure on top of that, so you probably lose a bar from the whole operating range anyway, meaning that the pump is actually going to need to deliver at about 2 bar to give 1 bar nozzle pressure into the boosted air.) So what that means is that you will struggle to get better than about 3:1 turndown ratio, and I'd suggest that most systems' pumps wouldn't deliver even 10 bar, so you might find that you've got more like 2:1 turndown. Whereas, you fuel injection flow rate turndown is >>100:1 (from idle through to full power) and the turndown just across the rev/power range where you want to inject water is probably at least 5:1. If you want your water to scale with "demand" (where demand is broadly equivalent to engine load, ie fuel injection quantity), then you're not going to be able to get anywhere near it with just a pump and nozzle. You end up having to over-deliver at the low end in order to maintain atomisation quality. And.....the general experience is that that's not really a problem. The only other thing you can do to sidestep this is to have multiple nozzles and stage them in. You can multiply whatever turndown range you fundamentally obtain from a single nozzle by 2, simply by having 2 such nozzles. 3 for 3 nozzles, etc. But staging them is a bit rough. It's very difficult to smoothly transition from "maxed out flow on a single nozzle" to "just above that amount, on 2 nozzles), because you have to both activate the 2nd nozzle's solenoid, and reduce the delivery pressure, simultaneously. It's not impossible, but it's far far more control system complication than anyone is really willing to put in. If you wanted to get that sophisticated, then you'd go down the pulsed injector/ECU path discussed previously.
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NM35 4WD light on dash + shuddering
GTSBoy replied to MrStabby's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
There's probably a dance you have to do to trigger diag mode in that CU (do they still call it ATESSA in these jiggers?). You'd have to consult the manual or whatever wisdom exists amongst the Stag tragics on the net. Have a search in the appropriate forum here. Failing that, just about any decent workshop with a SnapOn et al scan tool will be able to read it. -
Installing a Lift in the Garage, will this type of lift work?
GTSBoy replied to kevboost7's topic in General Maintenance
They're only a few $$ on Aliexpress, with the slit moulded in. -
A little from column A, and a little from column B. Yes, at least partially, if not mostly, because in the midrange (or at least, near peak torque) you can't wind as much timing in as you'd like. Adding a spray allows you to pretend detonation isn't a thing anymore, and you can add timing.
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Yes, well this is where Joshua's preference for an injector based system makes sense. You can use the injector opening time to control flow while keeping the injection pressure high for all flows. It just hasn't been that easy (in the old days) to get injectors large enough and able to survive having water go through them. I suspect that the alcohol tolerant injectors of massive size are probably workable these days. And in an ideal world you wouldn't even use a dedicated controller and sensors. You'd just use the ECU to batch fire the water injectors based on inputs you already have, IDC and some suitable table.
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So, his relevance to the GTR world is vanishingly small and it would have been better if he'd stayed the f**k away?
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NM35 4WD light on dash + shuddering
GTSBoy replied to MrStabby's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
Codes. -
Only if you get the formula right. You pretty much have to have massive view counts for the ad revenue to amount to anything you can live on. Most of them have a wide variety of side gigs hanging off the channel, selling merch, affiliate links, Patreons, channel memberships, etc, to keep sufficient money coming in to keep the wheels turning. I suspect that for many of them there's an element of Ponzi scheme going on where it will eventually come crashing down. For others, the steady need for the next thing they do to be bigger and more *gasp* worthy than the last will mean that they reach the limits of feasibility. And for others, the relentless pressure to keep putting out fresh content will eventually burn them out. Look at the million channels that Simon Whistler presents on. He must sit in that studio reading scripts like 12 hours a day to put out the content that ha puts out. He has armies of writers and researchers putting together all his content, and the adsense revenue has to pay for all of that. He's a Pom but based in Czech Republic - likely to keep costs down. I have started to see a bunch of youtubers banding together to either live in the same space or set up studios/sets in the same facility to save on costs. They do their own channels, do "guest" appearances on each others' channels, participate in long rambling podcasts where they just talk shit for an hour or two, then have special parts of the podcast that are only available to Patreons, all in an attempt to keep eyes on their channels in a 24 hour rinse cycle to keep the algorithm pushing their stuff out to the masses, in the hope of gaining more subs.
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Just a caution - ATESSA switch point not necessarily same same as A-LSD switch's switch point.
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Yes, but you want a very significant percentage of it evaporated before it gets to the runners anyway. Yes, well, you know what to avoid doing there, right? Doesn't take much metho in there to stop it freezing.
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Probably shouldn't spend so much time reading those papers then. We've been squirting water-meth into engines with firehoses for 20 years over here. You can quite literally keep adding it until the fire is quenched and nothing goes wrong. The only thing you need to be careful of is running out.
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R32 - Have Your Overheat Fan Turn On With Your A/c
GTSBoy replied to Cubes's topic in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ
Is that what I think it is? Is that a...... wiring diagram for a temp switched cooling fan with a relay? -
R32 - Have Your Overheat Fan Turn On With Your A/c
GTSBoy replied to Cubes's topic in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ
It's visible in the bloody quote you made of my post containing it. If you cannot configure your web browser to use the internet properly, then that's a whole other problem. -
R32 - Have Your Overheat Fan Turn On With Your A/c
GTSBoy replied to Cubes's topic in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ
Are you f**king kidding me? How can you not take what I drew and overlay the concept onto the real world? If you need a drawing that puts coloured wires onto numbered terminals on a f**king automotive relay, then you are in no position to be hanging shit on me for my electrical knowledge. Is it that you have absolutely no idea what you're doing? If so, just confess. Notwithstanding that, the sketch I made for you is 100% adequate to the task. -
R32 - Have Your Overheat Fan Turn On With Your A/c
GTSBoy replied to Cubes's topic in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ
And this is why cars burn down. -
R32 - Have Your Overheat Fan Turn On With Your A/c
GTSBoy replied to Cubes's topic in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ
What this one? The one that was directly pasted into the post, and should not be invisible, and that you quoted and complained about in the next post after it? -
R32 - Have Your Overheat Fan Turn On With Your A/c
GTSBoy replied to Cubes's topic in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ
Actually the above diagram is from MSPaint. I took the snip from the original diagram from the manual, pulled out the ECU connections and made it generic for an arbitrary fused power supply, relay, thermoswitch and main load. -
R32 - Have Your Overheat Fan Turn On With Your A/c
GTSBoy replied to Cubes's topic in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ
No. -
The only way that the water vapour itself can boost exhaust flow, beyond the simple number of molecule increase, might be the specific heat capacity. H2O has a somewhat lower Cp than CO2 does and so it will increase to a higher temperature (for the same thermal energy input), which increases volume flow rate (from thermal expansion). OK, so H2O also has a slightly less ideal (ie, non-ideal gas) characteristic and so probably expands a little more also, But that effect will be tiny. But all this is thrown out the window because we know that E85 exhaust is actually cooler, because of the extra mass of fuel that needs to be evaporated and heated to exhaust temperature. So.... I dunno. My main suspicion on increased spool is that you can and do run more ignition advance.
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Pls allow the combustion engineer in the room to correct this. Ethanol does in fact have a bit more exhaust gas volume than petrol, but it is nowhere near 25-30% extra. The only difference is that ethanol has a higher H:C ratio, so makes more water vapour. For each O2 molecule you use to oxidise a hydrogen, you will create 2x molecules of water. With carbon, each O2 only makes 1 CO2. While you might use 25-30% more fuel on E85, you use almost exactly the same amount of air to make the same power. Therefore you use almost exactly the same amount of O2, and hence N2 (from the air). The reality is that the extra water vapour and smaller qty of CO2 really just increases the exhaust gas volume by a few %. Maybe 5. I'm not about to go do the stoichiometry calculations. But, I have recently been doing exactly that for H2 replacement of natural gas in industrial applications and even then, when you're talking about only making water vapour and no CO2, the increase is not as fat as 30%.
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Yeah, it's the pressure switch. All that goes in the bin. Of course, you'll need a new diff, casing, centre, etc.
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So many people say they have a GTXXYYr when in reality they have a ChinaBay/offbrand copy.