GTSBoy

It would take someone to be familiar with how much volume of fuel flow they expect to see out the back of the reg at idle load to b able to tell if what they were seeing was normal or not. The correct way to diagnose fuel pressure problems is to plum a fuel pressure gauge into the fuel line in the engine bay before the fuel rail. Anything else is just guesswork. And, by the very definition f being a back pressure regulator, the fuel pressure regulator, if undersized for the pump (or, perhaps a little blocked) will cause high pressure at idle and maybe low pressure up top. The low pressure not being the fault of the reg, but of the pump or other restriction on the supply side (not the return side).

EMAP is exhaust manifold pressure. Boost is inlet manifold pressure. For making really good power, you would prefer EMAP to be lower than the boost pressure. When EMAP exceeds boost pressure, it adds more flow restriction to the engine, driving more reversion of hot exhaust gases back into the cylinder, which just generally makes absolutely everything about trying to make power worse. 1:1 is an expression of the ratio of EMAP to boost pressure.

I can't imagine that the repair/write off status would make it any harder to re-register than otherwise. Butt I can't peak for any state that has this pink slip blue slip bullshit. Here in SA we do things the old fashioned way. Regency identity inspection followed by Regency technical inspection followed by "fix this list of shit and come back".

Ah, but that's almost a good idea. It does away with the horrendous moo noise that most CVT 4cyl engines have.

Yeah, see, this made it sound like it was currently a repairable write off (for some new reason) and that it had previously had hail damage repaired. In reality, it is not a repairable write off. It was, but it is now a repaired write off. What will be important here is to know how severe the hail damage was, and how it was fixed. Some hail damage is so slight that your wife will argue to just leave it (ask me how I know) and some is so bad that you wonder how it can be economically fixed. And the skills of the hail repairers vary, and the tightness of the sphincters of the insurance companies vary, so you can have quality anywhere on the spectrum. If the repairs were mostly dentless work, and only a little bit needed to be bogged and painted, then it's probably perfectly fine. If the thing was absolutely hammered and they couldn't just rub them out with dentless repair and had to cover the whole thing with bog, then....as long as it is super cheap, then fine. But if there is no record or evidence of what happened to it, then the questions raised need to be offset by low price.

Six of one, half dozen of the other.

But it's not. really, on cars with multiple arm suspension. That is only really true on mac strut cars, which neither end of a Skyline is. On a mac strut car a lot of the lateral suspension loads are forced into the top of the strut towers because that's where one of the locating links is mechanically connected. So strut bars help to tie those two points together so at least they move in unison, and if they can share some load then hopefully they move less. This stops the suspension angles/alignment wandering around as much. But on a car with upper and lower arms, there is almost no lateral load put into the top of the suspension tower. So they do not have that large mechanical force put into them at such a long lever arm length above the lower inner pivot point. Sure, particularly on a Skyline front end, the upper arm is connected to the suspension tower, but it is only part way up the tower, and that tower is very very solidly build because of that connection point. That connection point is not very far above the chassis rail, which provides plenty of extra beef. So the amount of benefit available from a strut bar on the front of a Skyline is minimal at best. On the rear, you're talking about putting a bar onto the tops of the damper mounts, which again do not carry ANY lateral load, because it's all taken by the suspension arms directly onto the subframe. Nothing "suspension" connects to the body at all, in any meaningful way. A rear strut bar on a Skyline has got to be a pure example of placebo. It might make the body a tiny bit less wobbly. But you're also talking about putting a bar from one point to another, just underneath the parcel shelf which already ties those two places together, just above the boot floor, which also ties those two points together. From a mechanical engineer's perspective, a parallel bar between those two structures is going to do literally f**k all. The only front bars worth considering are tied to the firewall. That will stop the front of the car moving up/down as well as left right, and might do enough to create a real benefit to handling. On the rear, the only ones worth considering are those that are triangulated down to the boot floor, because that is literally turning those parallel structures into a truss, which has go to be stiffer. But again, seeing as the suspension is NOT CONNECTED to the body, it really shouldn't make any difference to the handling. Pure placebo. And Nissan engineers are told to do things by marketing the same as the rest of us engineers are. It doesn't have to make sense, it just has to answer a perceived want from the market.

So, you disconnected the primary load sensor from the Haltech, and wonder why it doesn't work nice? You better not have put too much load on the engine. Could have been pinging its tits off.

Have you driven an Entrail lately. I had one for most of this year (as a rental). Not quite hateable.....but close.

Who's doing the work on your proposed repairable write off? Yourself with your own tools? Because that's usually the only way to make it economically viable. Otherwise, the insurance company would usually choose to repair (if it was going to be economically viable). If you have to pay the going rate, you're going to spend more. Of course, if you get a car that you otherwise can't get hold of, then it's probably worth it.

It's representative. I couldn't bring myself to look at too many more. Gives me the cold shudders as it is.

Good. If you'd killed that diff I was going to come for you!!! I could recommend the guy I use here. I'm sure that you should be able to find the equivalent in Vic, but if not, Alan at All Type Crash Repairs is a good bloke. He has accepted large funds transfers from myself and various other mentally ill people to make Skylines look better than they used to.

Google up the alarm's install manual. The wiring diagram should be there, so you can find the wire/terminal for the valet switch.

RenaultNiissan RenaultNissan

That would be the bump sensor.

Just hang the ambient air temp sensor over the top of the exhaust manifold, f'rigsample.

Would make sense. Can be replaced (if it is damaged) with .... almost anything. Just poke a longer hose into the rail perhaps.

Not only is it pulsating, but the centre of the range of the pressure appears to be about half what it should be. Why is the reg not wound in to give ~43 psi base pressure. That could be all of your lean issue right there. And, I second the following Why did you change these parts, and is the rest of the package able to handle it? What size were the previous injectors?

Hmm. Dunno. I can't think of a reason for something like that to be poked in that rail hole. Don't know if that thing is even on my car. I won't be near my car for another 10 days or so, so I can physically check then. Right now I have photos on my phone from when the engine was out, but they're too dark and blurry in that corner of the bay to show whether it is there or not. Black on black hard to see even in a close up!

Not having a valet button is just a matter of.....wiring up a valet button, no? Surely that alarm is supposed to have one....

Another vote for the "044 is too small". It is too small. We all learned 20 years ago that you would need more than one such pump to support the sort of power you're wanting. As to your fuel consumption issue......that's most likely to be a tune thing. Do as advised above.

Where's the Samsonas?

BOV is on the back of the crossover pipe. The outlet f that BOV needs to be piped down to the turbo inlet. This is shown in diagrams in the manual, but it's a pretty trivial route. The return pipe is about 1" and runs back under the crossover pipe above the exhaust manifold and then directed into the turbo inlet elbow, facing more towards the turbo than the AFM.

So, did you call Brenton?

I'm not sure how you would do this. The RB20DET box uses a cable drive. All R33 speedo drives are electronic. The one good point is that the RB25DE manual box is the same box as the RB20DET box. so if you can find an electronic sender from a manual NA R33, then you could use that. Good luck though. And no, the one out of the autobox won't go anywhere near the RB20DET box.