GTSBoy

As an extension of that thought, if you do not also have adjustable front radius/traction arms, and if you have not had them properly** set up at the same time as any adjustments to the uppers (when camber is being set) then you will likely have an excessive amount of bump steer and the rear end will actually be worse off. **I built a bump steer measuring setup with a laser, mirror, etc and spent.....a whole day, and most of another day, getting both sides of my car to minimum bump steer. (Was a slow effort because I was designing/building the rig as I went, to start with). Then I had the rear camber adjusted a little at the next proper wheel alignment and had to set the bump steer rig up again to dial out the increased bump steer that it caused. Car's rear end behaviour was substantially nicer afterwards. To get that done by a specialist would be.....near impossible in most places. Almost no chassis/wheel align shops would be willing to put up with the f**king around. And the fee would be horrendous. Racers and shops that cater pretty much only to racers would probably be set up to do it and do it reasonably efficiently, but it would still cost many hundreds of $$. My time should be worth even more than that, but fuddling about with the car is also therapy, so meh.

On an R33 RB25, I think they actually are your heater lines. The hoses go from there, behind the head/block along the firewall, to the heater ports on the other side of the firewall.

Yeah, there's every chance that it's an unnecessary restriction.

There's your problem. The stocker is not a reg, it is a pulsation dampener.

Given Ben's input above, it would seem that the crush tube length would be the same between R33 and R34 GTRs. Given the crush tube is the same length, then the length of the outer is v.likely the same also. And so the only unknown would be the ID of the outer tube. This leaves a better than 50/50 chance that the R33 bush would go into the R34 radius rod.

It's not how you drive your car bro'. It's how you stand by it while it's parked at the meet!

Yeah - without direct personal experience on my car, I concur wholeheartedly with the (pro) V-band argument. In an ideal world there would be (probably application specific) v-band manifolds and rear housings that would have dividers that aligned with each other so you could have the best of both worlds. I suspect we'll be waiting until sintered powder 3D printed housings become a cost-effective close-to-DIY sort of thing before we can hope for it to happen though.

You're talking about a joint that hardly has any rotational motion at all (in degrees) but takes a simply massive longitudinal load. Hydrolastic OEM bushes can go die in a fire in that application. I had urethane bushes in my front radius rods for 10 years and they never made a noise. They don't even require lube to not make a noise, as they don't move (rotationally) more than the urethane will take internally anyway. But I abandoned even urethane for the simple joys of sphericals. And please do not bitch about NVH. For the same reasons that urethane is not a problem (not that it's a problem anywhere, anyway), the radius rod bushes are the single least likely place for you to notice any extra NVH from sphericals, yet they are the single best place to have them to improve the feel of the front end. As to urethane bushing manufacturers/vendors cross listing radius rod bushes between 33 and 34 GTRs..... perhaps the most trusted such manufacturer, Whiteline, does not. They only list the bushes for the 32&33, not the 34. A la Nissan. However, as nearly everything else in the 33/34 chassis is interchangeable, I'd be surprised that the physical dimensions of the bush are different. It would surely just be that Nissan had a change of spec of the squishy juice they kept inside them, rather than anything truly incompatible. Or....maybe there was a difference in the lower control arms that I'm not aware of....that actually rings a bell. Did they not go to alloy, or something? But the upshot is, bushes are typically only ~$200, so don't cost/lose much if you (or, the OP in this case) buy, try and fail. But I wouldn't even bother. Just go straight to sphericals. And, for further corroboration, or confusion if you want to take it that way, several trusted manufacturers of radius rods do not cross list the 33 and 34 GTR either.

But. But. But..... No-one puts standard bushings in the (I assume you mean the) radius rod. Urethane at the minimum, otherwise bin the stock arm and put something with spherical joints in there. The stock rubber bushings are horrible. All squishy and allow ridiculous amounts of fore-aft movement in the lower arm.

Knock sensors? No. The green "hose barbs" are the plugs on the knock sensors. The knock sensor is there, screwed into the block. The o-ring is a paranoia thing to keep the connection all sealed up.

Why get a HKS belt when a Pitwork belt is a fraction of the price and works well?

Priorities. Priorities. Pretty pretty priorities.

How broke do we need to be to choose a 2nd hand fuel pump?

For the rebirthing, babee!

Caldina without the Toyota reliability? No thanks. No thanks to almost any post-Renault Nissan anyway.

I'm sitting here, trying to work out how the living f**k you can parley a ~$10k purchase of a GTR ~5 years ago into It just beggars belief. You won the f**king lottery and you're complaining about it?

For an R32, JustJap, Kudos, et al.

This thread played out.

That is the correct price.

No. Absolutely not. The ECU needs to know if the auto trans is trying to stall the engine, which it is, when it is not in N (or P, which is the same thing). The idle control relies on it.

And yet....you still bought the car?

Here's an RP71C #2 (photo taken from this very site) showing an electronic speed sender. http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i30/0t1/more/IMG_0296.jpg I'm not at all sure what that 3pin connector is all about - unless it is the wiring for the reverse and neutral switches brought together. It's certainly not the usual connector for the speed sensor. Anyway - I'm pretty sure that the R31a used a mechanical speedo drive, and this gearbox, being an R33 turbo box (the best thing to have, by the way) usually has an electronic speed sender, as in the image above. So - you cannot make it work without building a mechanical speedo drive. You will need the speedo drive from a Navara from the same period to do this. I think you have to use the gear from your electronic drive to get the right ratio (Navara being different). There are howtos on here and elsewhere on the net, although I've never actually seen one as I didn't have to do mine - my bro'-in-law built the drive for me.

That's not what HICAS is for. It isn't intended to make tighter turning radius in low speed corners. That was what the other shitty Japanese 4WS steering systems on the Mazda MX-6 and Honda Prelude were for, because in the 80s FWD chassis designers hadn't worked out how to give medium-large FWD cars a decent turning circle. In fact, the turning circle on pretty much all FWD cars sucked balls up until the mid 90s. These types of systems counter steered the rear wheels to improve the turning circle. HICAS DOES NOT COUNTER STEER. HICAS was intended by Nissan to improve the turn in response of "sporty" cars that were actually just pleb grade chassis with a GT/coupe body on top. There's little difference between an R chassis, an A chassis, an S chassis, or most of the other Nissan RWD offerings of the time. Even the V chassis is only an evolution of the same mass produced old shit. So, the chassis is not necessarily that "sporting". But the cars that had HICAS ladelled onto them were marketed as sporty, so they had to try to make them as sporty as possible without making them too harsh and jittery. If you were to improve the turn in without resorting to 4WS, you would simply improve the geometry a little, increase ARB stiffness, damper tuning and so on, but all of these things make the car ride more harshly and can be scary to normal plebian drivers, particularly in the wet. So, what HICAS does is induce a moment of in-phase steering as you turn into a corner. It does this because tyres only start to create a turning force against the road when there is a slip angle between the direction the tyre is pointing and the direction that it is actually travelling along the road. At the front, this is achieved by turning the wheel. You turn the front wheels to point a different direction to the direction that the car is travelling, then the slip angle exists, and then the tyre starts generating a turning force. That then starts to rotate the car, and it is only after the car starts to rotate around its axis that the rear tyres start to have a slip angle and start generating a turning force. The rear tyres are totally slaved to the rest of the car. There is a delay. HICAS instead causes the rear tyres to have a slip angle immediately and start generating a turning force immediately, causing the rear of the car to start to rotate in the desired direction much earlier in the process. This is experienced as improved turn in - the rear end feels more "alive" and "sporty" and any other such terms you like to apply. The trouble is that the computer only knows a few things. It only has a steering angle input from the steering wheel sensor and a speed sensor, and bugger all else. No lateral G sensor, nothing else. So it has no bloody idea exactly how you're driving the car. And the computer is a bloody simple and stupid device with a simple program that says if X then Y - pretty much. And that program is only good up to about 7/10ths driving. After that, when you're pushing the car hard through a turn, the last thing you want is the 4WS computer interpreting your repeated steering inputs (as you fight understeer, etc) as new corner entries and to keep changing the angle of the rear wheels. HICAS is simply the best way to fling your car off the corner in reverse when you're really going for it. It sucks. It just sucks.

Nissan's HICAS, and all other 4WS steer systems until the very most recent ones (last 10 years, Porsche, etc), are all...... crap. utter crap. A good idea that didn't work properly. Hence, we piss them off. The cars are more predictable without a 3-brain-cell computer sawing away at the back wheels while you're trying to balance the car on the limit of longitudinal and lateral traction.

The drains are out the ends of the plenum into the back end of the front guards.