GTSBoy

No. Not necessarily. Duncan told you that already.... My underline and bold emphases. Just substitute ATTESSA for A-LSD in your case. But, if perchance your A-LSD was not functioning properly because of this failed sensor, then it is a prime opportunity to fling the smelly piece of crap in the bin (the whole A-LSD system) and replace with a diff that actually works properly.

Unless they're bent enough to rub on the bore, which usually doesn't happen because bends that large usually increase the crankcase ventilation quite a lot.

f**k. You're a madman. When you said "dash" I thought you just meant the cluster. This is a whole 'nother level of unnecessary f**kery. Good luck.

Must haves some altered mounts to be able to sit an RB on it.

Yeah, I would have said "bottomed out except with 1-2mm left to go, so the grease has a chance to push it out when you go ghetto hydraulic on it".

See, it's nuggets of info like this, delivered deep into these threads that are always so infuriating. Freshly charged battery. Comp test it. Drain old suspicious fuel. Pump new fuel through the fuel rail and drain it off. Old fuel goes in the lawnmower. Remove crossover pipe to TB. Spray ether in there through opened thottle plate. Then crank immediately. None of this "sprayed it in the intake", which I presume is pre-turbo.

I shall presume that the AFM got wet and might not be good. Will also therefore presume that the air filter is wet and won't flow. Not that these should stop it firing completely, just stop it from actually making it all the way to running. Time for a compression test, just in case something from far left field has happened. Are the cams (and hence CAS) actually turning? Declaration of spark and fuel not clear as to whether it was cranking or just hand spinning the CAS.

With the caveat that some IACV/AACs have plastic screws and can be damaged by hamfisted turning. With the caveat that RB20DET and 26DET do not work this way for detecting idle condition - they have an actual throttle closed switch.

He's gunna have to drive on 4 studs down to Total Tools to buy the tap and handle!

It's.......helicoil time!

Yeah, driving on 4 is why you have 5. This is a poxy Eruo, no? Female thread is in the hub? Did you try one of the other bolts in there to see how it feels?

So plan for it to go to a panel shop to be welded up and painted when you do have access to it.

Yuh, So, weld up holes you don't need. Repaint.

Is the Impul lid metal or glass? Not that it matters much either way, because both are repairable.

I will never understand such people. Bling doesn't help in any way.

Yuh, reason I asked is that most times, the battery leads are not long enough to allow that to be done, but might just work if you're happy to reverse polarity!

Please tell me that you had red to red and black to black the whole time!!!

Which could point to thrashed radius rod bushes, or thrashed lower arm inner bushes, or maybe thrashed balljoint/kingpin bearings (less likely) or a bent/shifted subframe (drift damage).

Would have been massively wound back in Japan well before 2006. Most R32s exported out of Japan copped a 50k km haircut in the 90s, then a 75k km haircut in the 2000s.

Senders and gauges are usually "matched" in that there is a relationship between the sensed oil pressure and the voltage or resistance that is the output of the sender. If the gauge doesn't match that range, then it will read wrong. And obviously enough there's no standard for those ranges. A random selection of gauge and sender might work, but you would be made to trust it unless you absolutely knew that they were the same calibration. Solid idea. Hard to see why you didn't go there first!

Well, you could see if there is pressure at the pressure sender tapping point by not having anything connected there and see how much oil comes out as you crank it. After that, then yes, start to look at providing pressure to the sender by other means, to see if it can sense any pressure at all, and/or connect some other oil pressure measuring device at the same spot (ie your old one) and see what it says. I have to be frank - these problems usually turn out to be user error. It is hard to guide troubleshooting for things that are so completely random as user error. It's not like we're troubleshooting known, common failure modes of the stock equipment. You have to examine what you've done very closely, take it apart (physically and mentally) and see what ball bearings (real or metaphorical) fall out.

It's a long time since I had an RB20 and I'm 2600km from my RB25, so I can't easily check for you. So my recommendation for optical guidance is....There are RB20 diagrams in the R32 GTR workshop manual, which is fairly easily found for download.

Maybe. Maybe not. For a "genuine" street car, a billet block is an unpleasantness that you'd rather not have to live with. Much easier to deal with the thermals in a cast block. So, if you want a street motor that pushes past the sensible limits of a factory block, but don't want billet, then this is the way forward. If it costs nearly as much as a billet block and offers at least as much "strength" as you need for the street motor, it doesn't really matter if it gives anything away (in the way of "strength") to the billet block. If it takes away the worry of the stock block shitting itself and spilling money all over the road, then it's all good, no? A very valid concern. I was thinking similar thoughts last night. Not sure what the best solution would turn out to be. Hopefully someone clever would come up with a design that allowed you to go in more than one direction. It's not really like the main bearing and crank pin dimensions are inherently a problem. Billet cranks with the same dimensions are plenty strong. So the only real question is whether you design a closed ecosystem of block and crank to do things to permanently fix the oil pump questions, or whether you leave all the options open and limit how good the best option can be. Again, like the point about the billet block - I suspect that it doesn't matter if you cannot get "the best" out of this, if what you can get is "more than sufficient" for the sort of street application that I think it would be aimed at. Yes, but in the case of RB26 blocks, only just a little bit taller. Or, at least, not as tall as the RB30 block, so that fitting it into R32 engine bays doesn't require all the usual crap. A taller than RB30 block (for RB30esque builds) is probably not required, no?

Just delete the coolant feed to the TB. We don't need them here in Oz. Not cold enough to need to prevent icing in the TB, unlike northern Nippon.

So, either you ballsed up the install and actually have no oil pressure.....and have almost certainly trashed the bottom end, or.... You have ballsed up the install of just the oil pressure sensor.