GTSBoy

Actually, it will. In stock form. The turbo might choose to throw a wheel though. Seen it happen to an R34 at stock boost at Mallala

What's your HICAS situation? You can't use R33 pumps on R32s if you still need to pump fluid around the rear steer circuit. If you have deactivated it, then going to a single stage pump means you can just pis off all the rear steer stuff. Sadly, I don't know if the R33 pumps fall onto the RB20 or if you need to futz with the mountings and/or pulley. I am reasonably sure though, that the question has been asked and discussed on here before, so have a search.

Thank you. I'm here all week. Tip your waitresses.

Yuck! Why would you make an R34 look like an R33? 😛

Are we going to take bets on some sort of blanking caps left on/in the new injectors?

Whilst there may need to be effort put into wiring up the Jatcrapco to the Haltech, surely we're at the point now where this is achievable, no? https://support.haltech.com/portal/en/kb/articles/transmission-control

Yes. The is about modifying engines that already have VCT and hence an internal supply. Your block doesn't, requires external feed added.

Yuh. They're ^^ correct. That is clearly mechanical friction happening. You do not want to push that pedal while the engine is running EVER AGAIN..... at least until it is all out on the workshop floor and you find out what is rooted.

Consult is the name of the Nissan serial databus interface, and is extended by us all to describe any device that can talk on the bus to the ECU.

No. The RB330 block is arguably weaker than either, because it is taller. None of the RB blocks are particularly good, but the 30s have a longer section up near the deck with very little reinforcement. There is little to no difference between a 25 and 26 block. There is absolutely nothing special about the 26 as a block or engine. It was just a mass produced engine. People go RB30 for one reason and one reason only. Capacity. (Which leads to torque, which leads to power, which leads to everything being better).

Is that not the worst AWD system ever used in a car since the one used in the Calibra?

My immediate reaction to these inquiries is always "It's just not viable". But.... I suppose now that values of 34 GTRs are stratospheric, the money (and the effort) spent to "GTR" convert a lesser 34 is going to be nowhere near the value of a GTR. But, I do have to ask.....what's the point? The RB25Neo is just as capable, if not better than the 26 to make power from. Even if you put all the widebody panels on the car, it still won't be a real GTR. So.... why not just build up a GT-four?

Oh no. That R34 wing is dreadful. Looks like it belongs on a Honda. The whole back of the kit is bad actually. Only the front is OK. I belong to the "R33s are boats that look like a Maxima aggressively rear ended a Magna" camp. The profile of the car is poor. The length between the back edge of the door and the rear wheel arch is just too long on a 33. The front is bland in a Magnaesque way and the rear is just f**ked up. The R32 maintains the correct proportions from the cars that created the look (ie, the early Mustangs, and to an extent the earliest Skylines) that sort of survived in the 70s Skylines but definitely was solidly in the design language of the 80s Skylines. The R32s only blemish is really the front end of the bonnet. But that can be changed. The R34 brought back the correct profile and proportions. It was actually confrontingly square when it first came out, but that soon passed. The only blemish is the slightly incorrect taillights, but they are much better than the very wrong lights on the 33 (and the lower end and Aussie built 31s). Equal sized stoveplate rear lights are a requirement for a proper Skyline. You have to slap a lot of tupperware onto a 33 to mask all the problems.

Imagine all that love and attention paid to a car that actually looks good. Like a 32 or a 34?

Assuming HP at the wheels, then you might struggle to make it. I don't have any direct experience on this sort of setup, but just looking at the compressor map, and thinking of a single one of these on a 1.5L engine needing a lot of boost to make 475-500 engine HP, then there's a bit of a conflict between the likely 2+ bar of boost required to make that sort of power and the need for the compressor to be flowing 45-50 lbs/min of air. You'll be right over on the RHS of the map, over near the choke region, pulling middling efficiency and running close to max shaft speed. But, if I had to guess, I'd say it would be a ripper and do pretty much what you're asking for.

Shall we presume that this is at the wheels in Australia on something like a Dyno Dynamics? Or at the hubs? Or at the fly?

No. Cats have heat shields on them, usually mostly on the top, to stop their incredibly high running temperature from baking the crap out of the underside of the car. They are placed close to the engine to heat them up as FAST as possible, not to the highest temperature possible.

W/O looking, I thought the ECCS & IGn relays were brown on an R32, but whatever. That's the spot where they belong, regardless of what colour they are.

So, JDM garage say they can get them on backorder. Which suggests that others who deal with OEM parts could also get them and/or keep them in stock (although I'd be super surprised to find anyone bothering to stock them, seeing as how they're likely to be almost never bought. So, have you tried Nengun and all the other equivalents?

Yeah, be careful with that. Perhaps heat wrap up to the cat but not the cat itself. Overheat a cat at your peril.

I'd be close to 200% sure that there is no long/medium runner length option that you would want to use. That IMR manifold looks interesting (although, why the living f**k did they think they needed to lobsterback it together!!!???!! Just stupid!). But I'm pretty sure that there would be compromises wrt ancillaries and so on that you'd not like to live with. Getting to the stuff that lives under the manifold will be harder, and it's already hard enough. Plus, the alternator access looks less nice. So, that leaves the shorter stuff, and if I had to go down that path, I'd just suck it up and pay for Hypertune.

Duncan mentioned the ECCS relay several times. It is very possible that the ECCS relay is crook. It might not be making good contact on its switched side. Take it out, check it out, try a known good one if you can. The alarm comment is also solid. Properly installed alarms/immobilisers get in the way of the power feeds to the ECU and starter circuits and can easily cause this sort of crap.

No. It's been posted in this thread before. That sort of cut is what is done to prevent anyone from attempting to put a written off car back on the road. The fact of this thing coming up "clean" without an entry on a WOVR is a mystery.

You have a non-stock, bastardised ECU setup. I'm pretty sure that we're going to struggle to work out why things change between having the Fcon plugged in or not. Recommendations to throw the thing in the bin and install a proper ECU are the only sensible feedback you're likely to get.

I'm with these guys. There is no merit in this plan. You will go broke, and you will go broke repeatedly trying to achieve anything with this car. The costs that you think are realistic, like $1k for an interior, are just laughable. You cannot even find most of that stuff these days, let alone all of it in one hit. Anyone who has all of it in one hit only has it because they have it in a car that is too far gone to be saleable as a car. ie, it's all f**ked. And they will still want to sell the interior bits for >>$50 each, totalling $5k. And they will be all scratched up, faded, broken and f**ked. Did I mention the f**ked part?