GTSBoy

Yup. Assembly error in the clutch/fork/thrust would be number one suspect. That's assuming that you've bled the clutch properly. There is no internet diagnosis for saying that the clutch is properly bled but not having properly bled it. Have you used a power bleeder?

No. That is on the gearbox itself and has nothing to do with the clutch. If there are no bubbles coming out of the slave cylinder bleed point while you bleed it, then the clutch is probably properly bled. In that case, your symptoms could suggest that there is a problem in the clutch itself. it, broken fork, collapsed thrust bearing, collapsed diaphragm, etc.

You'd need the sample, and the other 99 samples, because the guy on Alibaba is probably going to try to reverse engineer the part from photos and then stamp them out of pie tins. Or find a part off a Mitsubishi that looks similar.

Yes, I would suggest that the R34 FUCA from GKTech would fit. Looks to be the same. This is a truly hardcore upgrade though. Spherical joints.

That's somewhat of a mixed message or confabulation of two different things. Point 1. Yes, it is generally a bad idea to tap anything into the FPR connection because when it goes wrong the lean condition is very destructive. No, it doesn't go wrong often, but when it does, it is usually because the ignorance of the failure mode is combined with sufficient general ignorance that the failure becomes more likely through ineptitude. Thus, it is generally easier to simply say "don't do it" than try to have a nuanced discussion. Point 2. The Neo's boost sensor "failure mode" should you tap into its connection and have that connection fail is not severe at all. But this is where the confabulation occurs, because you made it sound like tapping into the FPR on a Neo was not as bad. There wasn't any need to bring the Neo's boost sensor up as it was lacking in relevance, even with its previous mention in this thread. /pedant mode.

See this thread and my posted images. You have several choices, including the connection for the stock ECU's boost sensor, the BOV, the dash gauge.

The R34 does not have a MAP sensor. It does have a sensor (where all previous RBs had none), and it is a MAP sensor, but it is not used by the factory ECU for MAP. It is called the "boost sensor" and it is only really used for effecting what amounts to a boost cut. There is no way that Haltech would have attempted to use it instead of their ECU's on board MAP.

The usual routine is to press them out. Roughnuts will butcher the crush tube out then use a reciprosaw to destroy the outer bush sleeve (and cut halfway through the arm!).

I just realised that I made a small error of message above. When I said "adjustable front radius/traction arms" I was actually referring to the ones on the rear suspension. I said "front" because I meant they're at the front of the collection of arms on the rear of the car, only got halfway through the thought before full stopping. The message above is only relevant to the rear suspension, because the front radius rods don't really have that much (if any) effect on bump steer.

As an extension of that thought, if you do not also have adjustable front radius/traction arms, and if you have not had them properly** set up at the same time as any adjustments to the uppers (when camber is being set) then you will likely have an excessive amount of bump steer and the rear end will actually be worse off. **I built a bump steer measuring setup with a laser, mirror, etc and spent.....a whole day, and most of another day, getting both sides of my car to minimum bump steer. (Was a slow effort because I was designing/building the rig as I went, to start with). Then I had the rear camber adjusted a little at the next proper wheel alignment and had to set the bump steer rig up again to dial out the increased bump steer that it caused. Car's rear end behaviour was substantially nicer afterwards. To get that done by a specialist would be.....near impossible in most places. Almost no chassis/wheel align shops would be willing to put up with the f**king around. And the fee would be horrendous. Racers and shops that cater pretty much only to racers would probably be set up to do it and do it reasonably efficiently, but it would still cost many hundreds of $$. My time should be worth even more than that, but fuddling about with the car is also therapy, so meh.

On an R33 RB25, I think they actually are your heater lines. The hoses go from there, behind the head/block along the firewall, to the heater ports on the other side of the firewall.

Yeah, there's every chance that it's an unnecessary restriction.

There's your problem. The stocker is not a reg, it is a pulsation dampener.

Given Ben's input above, it would seem that the crush tube length would be the same between R33 and R34 GTRs. Given the crush tube is the same length, then the length of the outer is v.likely the same also. And so the only unknown would be the ID of the outer tube. This leaves a better than 50/50 chance that the R33 bush would go into the R34 radius rod.

It's not how you drive your car bro'. It's how you stand by it while it's parked at the meet!

Yeah - without direct personal experience on my car, I concur wholeheartedly with the (pro) V-band argument. In an ideal world there would be (probably application specific) v-band manifolds and rear housings that would have dividers that aligned with each other so you could have the best of both worlds. I suspect we'll be waiting until sintered powder 3D printed housings become a cost-effective close-to-DIY sort of thing before we can hope for it to happen though.

You're talking about a joint that hardly has any rotational motion at all (in degrees) but takes a simply massive longitudinal load. Hydrolastic OEM bushes can go die in a fire in that application. I had urethane bushes in my front radius rods for 10 years and they never made a noise. They don't even require lube to not make a noise, as they don't move (rotationally) more than the urethane will take internally anyway. But I abandoned even urethane for the simple joys of sphericals. And please do not bitch about NVH. For the same reasons that urethane is not a problem (not that it's a problem anywhere, anyway), the radius rod bushes are the single least likely place for you to notice any extra NVH from sphericals, yet they are the single best place to have them to improve the feel of the front end. As to urethane bushing manufacturers/vendors cross listing radius rod bushes between 33 and 34 GTRs..... perhaps the most trusted such manufacturer, Whiteline, does not. They only list the bushes for the 32&33, not the 34. A la Nissan. However, as nearly everything else in the 33/34 chassis is interchangeable, I'd be surprised that the physical dimensions of the bush are different. It would surely just be that Nissan had a change of spec of the squishy juice they kept inside them, rather than anything truly incompatible. Or....maybe there was a difference in the lower control arms that I'm not aware of....that actually rings a bell. Did they not go to alloy, or something? But the upshot is, bushes are typically only ~$200, so don't cost/lose much if you (or, the OP in this case) buy, try and fail. But I wouldn't even bother. Just go straight to sphericals. And, for further corroboration, or confusion if you want to take it that way, several trusted manufacturers of radius rods do not cross list the 33 and 34 GTR either.

But. But. But..... No-one puts standard bushings in the (I assume you mean the) radius rod. Urethane at the minimum, otherwise bin the stock arm and put something with spherical joints in there. The stock rubber bushings are horrible. All squishy and allow ridiculous amounts of fore-aft movement in the lower arm.

Knock sensors? No. The green "hose barbs" are the plugs on the knock sensors. The knock sensor is there, screwed into the block. The o-ring is a paranoia thing to keep the connection all sealed up.

Why get a HKS belt when a Pitwork belt is a fraction of the price and works well?

Priorities. Priorities. Pretty pretty priorities.

How broke do we need to be to choose a 2nd hand fuel pump?

For the rebirthing, babee!

Caldina without the Toyota reliability? No thanks. No thanks to almost any post-Renault Nissan anyway.

I'm sitting here, trying to work out how the living f**k you can parley a ~$10k purchase of a GTR ~5 years ago into It just beggars belief. You won the f**king lottery and you're complaining about it?