GTSBoy

Yup. Inner and outer rubber strips on the top of the door panel. Door/window rubbers on the door opening in the body. Door rubbers around the bottom of the door. All easy enough. As to whether I can help you - it will depend on when you're ready. I have spent 16 of the last 20 months 2600km away from home, with no real end in sight. Maybe I'll be kicked off site by Dec31. I wouldn't expect the rubbers to have changed between S1 and S2. Things like door openings are never changed in facelift revisions if they can avoid it. Too expensive. They just change plastic bits that make the car look different.

So.....what turbo are you bolting it onto? Stock? Then there will be no cause for concern. The problem reported by zoomzoom is only on a significantly larger turbo with a much bigger wastegate flap. The chances of you finding yourself in this position are slim. 90+% of all turbo upgrade options you might pursue will require a different dump pipe anyway. Furthermore, should you find yourself in that position, it is not exactly rocket science to do mods to a dump pipe. Any half decent workshop would be able to cut and shut as required.

Only for insufficiently large values of 1.

Is not the need for a new balancer a justification for buying an aftermarket goodun', rather than a stocker?

You do not have to run "rated" power with any turbo. But otherwise, what has been said above by Muzz is also true.

Just get a cheapy full length dump from JustJap or similar. You're not going to make an extra million HP either way. They are seriously fine.

Have you considered taking the door trim off and having a look for yourself?

Depends which G30 you buy. How much do you want? The largest is rated to 900 engine HP. You might be happier with something capable of only 660 HP (the smallest G30) and make anything up to that much. You will want to ditch the injectors, even though they are "large enough", because highflows are AIDS, and there is no reason to cheap out and risk an engine these days. Good injectors are only ~$100 each these days.

Sell twins. Sell single. Buy G30 + decent manifold and gate. Boost off into the sunset.

Probably need to properly clean the IACV. If it is dirty and sticky it can be slow to catch the idle on the way down from a rev.

Yes, they are without value. Give them to your mate.

This seems like a prep for a spam run. But on the presumption that it is not, first I will ask why you did not just google your question, as the answer is readily findable. And secondly - the heat range is 22. The 07 and the 11 are the gap, in tenths of a millimetre and have nothing to do with the heat range.

Germaine Greer quote of the day.gif

This ^. There are datum points on both the engine and the cover (ie, the mounting bolt holes) from which you can measure to find the centreline of the camshaft (on the engine) and just transfer that to the cover. It's a little harder because it's in 3 dimensions, but essentially the same as using a compass to draw two arcs from two centres to find the only common intersection point.

No. That is the exact opposite of what I told you in my first reply. The ECU knows almost nothing about what is on the dash. The only stuff that comes from the ECU to the dash is the tacho, and the engine warning light.

Um. back up a second. The illumination + and - terminals on the dash itself should have continuity between them. They are either side of the lamps. The illumination works by a switch, somewhere else (well, actually, it's obvious where it is, it's the headlight switch), provides either power or earth, depending on which way it is switched. I'm not going to go find an R33 wiring diagram to check. You can do that. VSS is the vehicle speed sensor. You can't really check that. It's one wire up from the speed sensor and then the VSS signal out to the ECU and other CUs that use it. The speed sensor on the gearbox produces a +/-1V AC (sawtooth) waveform that varies frequency (and magnitude) with vehicle speed, and the speedo in the dash converts that to a 0-5V square wave (PWM) signal (the VSS) that varies pulsewidth with speed. The illumination should not interfere with the gauges. But, my experience on these forums is that these faults are always caused by something completely stupid and unexpected.

Wriggle the wiring looms to injectors and coils, while it is running, particularly near the various plugs.

The dash doesn't get ANYTHING from the ECU except the tacho signal and the check engine lamp. Everything else, being fuel, oil pressure, boost, water temperature, speed, etc, all come direct from the various sensors/devices scattered around the car. So the ECU change is not at fault. You have some serious problem with all the wiring. Follow Duncan's advice.

I built a franken-helical for my R32 after experimenting with lots of other options. For a street car, they are nearly the perfect diff. I also corroborate Duncan's input, which is that the factory 2-way clutch type diff is an excellent diff that does not need to be upgraded and actually does not have the bearing "weakness" that your diff builder claims. The bearings will actually be the exact same part regardless of what centre is in the diff anyway, so I'm none too sure what sort of cane toad he has been licking to come up with that story.

As a long time (non-GTR) proponent of helical diffs, my vote is Quaife at both ends.

If you're in the northern 'burbs, go see Alan at All Type Crash for the body repairs. Good bloke - somewhat specialises in imports and particularly Skylines. Although, like me, I think he'd prefer to have R32s sitting the front yard than R33s. You can buy the window and door rubbers on line and do those yourself. I got Alan to fit and paint the new hinges to my doors, because I'm good with rubbers and other hardware, but hanging doors is not easy! He's also done a major repair and many small touch ups to my car over the years. And, for mechanical help, perhaps go see Brenton at Fours'n'more. Well......for more serious mechanical help than the power steering fluid leak. That's probably just a hose, and you could probably do that yourself.

Demount fan. Install shroud. Remount fan.

Being essentially the same as 64000 miles does not change my opinion of the mileage on that car. They were all wound back in Japan, then usually wound back again before sale in their destination country. Better off abandoning that old fashioned crap. Buy an R35 (or similar) pencil coil conversion kit. Rewire with a loom kit to get rid of the igniter. Nistune the ECU so you can tweak the dwell and boost off into the sunset.

Absolutely. There's also almost zero chance that that car has only done 64000 miles. 164000 more likely, 264000 quite probable. That is unless you have owned it since circa the year 2000. 30 years of heat soaking will definitely leave that ignitor not working the way it should. Hell.....they started dying 20 years ago on everyone else's cars.

Aren't modern Nissans like this a reason to buy these instead? https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/ford/mustang/under-50000/