GTSBoy

The lizard man's evil data theft and social control empire.

Anybody who voluntarily look sat bookface is already living in a dumpster anyway. f**k that place and all who sail in her.

And what do they mean?

Have you hooked up a diagnostic handset to it to find out if the ECU has a gut full of codes?

Almost none of the gauges care what the ECU thinks (only the tacho receives input from the ECU).....so your dash problem is not indicative of an ECU problem. Almost certainly blew the appropriate fuse for the dash. If the ECU is also having a power problem, then look to the ECCS relay as a possible cause.

Yeah, nah. That's actually more like "just in time" maintenance.

Because they will want it to be an LSD. Either plate or helical. An open diff is not welcome in that space.

I was going to ask if we'd fixed this yet. The suspense was killing me.

He hasn't been here for 3 years.

Just search GTSBoy bump steer. The kinematics of the wheel are controlled by the arcs that the upper, lower and radius arms move through. You're already up to speed with what happens if you just drop the ride height on stock arms. The wheel swings up and -ve camber increases and you get the undesired effects of that. So, you lengthen the upper arm to dial out the camber. The arc that the top end up the upright now follows is longer, right? But the radius rod is still the same short length that it was before, and it pulls the front of the upright inwards as all these arms go up and down. This literally steers that wheel. It changes its toe in-out as it goes up and down through the arc of travel. So you need to have an adjustable radius arm also. You mount a mirror onto the hub and you shine a laser at it, reflected back onto a piece of paper near the laser. As you swing the arm up and down**, the laser will trace a shape on the paper. You want that to be as close to a straight vertical line as possible, which shows that the wheel is only going up and down, not also steering in-out. You then set the radius rod length to minimise the sideways deflection of the laser path. This is enormously time consuming, and takes several iterations to get right, because when you adjust the radius arm length you also tweak the camber a little. So you have to go around and around a couple of times to get the camber where you want it and also minimise bump steer. **Doing this requires that you support the car and can independently support the hub and swing it up and down through its travel. So you have to disconnect the rear strut. You need to know exactly where the hub is supposed to be wrt the body when at correct ride height, because this is the centre point of the arc that you need to run up and down from.

Except that you really shouldn't do camber arms on their own without doing the radius arms also. And you shouldn't do radius arms without knowing how to make and use a bump steer gauge to make sure that you dial out the increased bump steer that you will put into the rear end by simply changing the length of the camber arms. I have posted extensively on this subject before.

Yeah, some GTR drag guys want the gears. Only the gears. They have no use for the rest of it.

Le sigh. Let's say that I have personally seen RB20s do over 260 rwkW unopened. Let's also allow that that was 15-20 years ago and these engines are now at least 30yrs old. Who knows whether your head gasket is as good as 20s typically were 15+ years ago, or if it has suffered a few years of running with not enough tension on the stud nuts, or any of a dozen other things that could cause it to not be as good as they used to be? So, just chuck 30 psi in it and see what happens.

Missed the joke wrt boat = 33

The rubber was said to be higher durometer, but there has never been any evidence of that in practice. It's just wank. A cynical attack on the wallet.

Correct. Nismo mounts are OEM mounts with Nismo tax.

Much of the Neo loom will be the same, but there are many differences. You will need to bell it out to make sure that the right ECU pins are going to right field devices, and many of them won't be. The Neo has different field devices (such as the boost sensor) using pins that are used for other things on the vanilla 25. You might end up having to take it apart in places to make it reach the devices it is supposed to, repin at the ECU end, etc etc. You're going to need the entire R32 wiring diagram, so you know the body side wiring and how to integrate it into the engine loom, and you're going to need both the Neo and vanilla 25 wiring diagrams to find all the differences and straighten them out. it would be far easier to piss off the adapter and just get a vanilla 25 loom. Far less bodging.

I thought I would come back to this. No-one with more than 0.5 functioning brain cells has ever thought it was a good idea to use a Mine's ECU in anything at any time. They are a fool's errand.

Auto ECUs are as easy to find as manual. But, I wouldn't believe it's the ECU any more than I would believe the misfire is caused by the LH rear tyre. Far more likely that you have shitty connection in the coil loom. Also possible to be dirty injector (although less likely). And....what sort of misfire? Idle only? Only in the middle rev/load region (ie, near peak torque)? Only at high revs? Severe, or mild?

If it reverts to being a flamin mongrel, try some PTFE lube sprayed in there instead. If that fails, more effort spent on disassembly to permit cleaning/lubing/replacement of the bearings might be the thing.

GTR only.

Nek minit - LS pulled out, RB2530 transplant.

Yeah, 12 point works best because the "splines" are not as straight sided as 6 point in-hex stuff.