GTSBoy

It is called "upper" engine cleaner. Only a tiny fraction of anything moved by it should end up in the oil, so it really shouldn't matter when you do it. If you're paranoid, do it beforehand. In reality, I'm assuming you're talking about putting it in a RB engine, in which case, they hardly build up anything that will get moved by this stuff anyway. I've put a few cans through my car over the years. Never noticed any difference afterwards. I'm not recommending against its usage. It's just that it is a Subaru product for a reason. The engines that Subaru intend it for have a significant problem with building up crud in the intake tract because of the design features of the engine. The RB simply doesn't have those features. Other shitty modern engines (ie, almost anything, really) will benefit from this stuff far more than an RB will.

A honeycomb will help if you can't put it in a "good" spot. A "good" spot will be as far downstream from a previous bend as possible. In reality, it really doesn't matter much either way, because whatever the velocity distribution across the pipe, you just tune to the reading of the meter anyway. It's not as if we're measuring grams per second of air flow here. We're just measuring % between minimum and maximum and injecting fuel to make the exhaust O2 correct.

They either have to religiously stick below the dB limits or just sell the track to developers and give up. Having said that, there is noise about a great deal of grumbling wrt the rather savage effect this has had on all the related businesses in Goulburn. The hotels, etc. Apparently pretty chopped their businesses down in one fell swoop. Apparently there might be some NIMBYs told to pull their heads in by council. Defo a wait and see for the moment.

Why would you need a guide? Find new spot, mount there. Make new hoses to suit and alter wiring ditto.

Just put a little bead of silicone in there and let it set off before fitting.

What's under the armrest on the back side of the door trim?

Remove. Or bolt to the strut tower like they did in 1990.

I've had some further back and forth with our Irish friend. Car was fine before head came off. Head only came off for pre-emptive/reparative replacement of many gaskets to correct oil leaks, etc. Valve stem seals were put in by a shop. Close inlet clearances and rough running only became apparent after reassembly. There's no information on whether the clearances were tight before the engine was pulled apart. I'm out of ideas beyond taking the head back off, taking it (with the cams) to the head shop, and perhaps testing for teh head having gone soft, leading to valve seat recession.

Yeah, Mishimoto seems to be a dirty word. Their radiators are suspect too.

I've copied in my reply from PM below. The first bit about a "bad cam" relates to a question in the PM. I think the lack of a clear sequence in the OP above is the same as in the PM question, so my reply works here equally well. Let's see if we can clarify that and get into it from there.

I don't understand the question. The HICAS solenoid in the engine bay has nothing to do with the front steering. There is a (very small) solenoid on the power steering rack. That remains connected. So long as the HICAS CU in the boot remains connected to the larger of the two loom plugs, PS continues to work.

NOBODY ever seems to listen when i talk about rebuilding hydraulic components.....so good luck with this advice Ben.

I wouldn't presume that an R33 one would work in a 32, but it's maybe possible. I would, on the other hand, assume that all R32 climate control boxes would work on all other R32s, because as far as I know the pinout never changed and the functionality never changed. 13v is close enough to the correct voltage of a fully charged 12V battery. They should sit at 12.7 - 12.9V anyway. Get the wiring diagram out, and start working out which wire is which, and which wire has power on it (and whether it should or shouldn't have power on it) and go from there. Just poking with a test light is not troubleshooting. You have to understand what you see and what you're looking for.

Any Jap 3" exhaust that is JASMA compliant will have a 2.5" restrictor in it somewhere that f**ks them anyway. Hotdogs are shit. If you want the exhaust to sound reasonable, put a decent sized centre-offset 3" muffler in the middle and the cannon on the rear. Plus, consider a cat. Decat is stupid.

This time I'm quoting the post I reported, so I can say "f**koff" to it. Ban. Ban Ban. Bananannannanana ban ban.

Not a strong enough response. I would lead with, oh hell no!

I thought I smelled deja vu!

f**k! PranK, not Duncan.

Just looks like. Not actually talking to Ravi! Duncan set me up.

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Yuh, could well be dropping the ECCS relay out or not having enough juice to keep the ECU happy as it cranks.

Power the relay. Test for continuity on the switched pins.

That is not "testing". A proper test requires that you prove that the switched side of the relay THEN CONDUCTS ELECTRICITY. Just clicking just means that they're moving. Not that they're working.

You're just as bad, even then. You open up your wallet, get stuff, it won't fit. Get it modded, still doesn't fit. Eventually get it on, interferes with something else. Fast forward 3 months and it broke, revert to previous. 2 months later, repeat with new gubbin or brainfart.

Point to point test the three relays you have there so you can identify where they are connected to, and therefore which relay is which. Mark up a printout of the wiring diagrams with what you find. Use the wiring diagram to tell you where you should have 12V and where you should have earth. And also where earth or power might come from, from some other switch or relay (ie the ignition switch) and then see if you have all those things in the right places.