GTSBoy

It takes a few (like low single digits) horsepower to drive a car AC compressor. If you can gain more than that few HP back, it should be nett positive. It would seem like an interchiller should be able to be worth more than a handful of horsies. Most importantly, it should be run when the engine load is less than 100% (ie, when there is spare power available, going unused at the tyres, when whatever power is used to run the AC won't take away from thrust.

You really should consider providing all relevant information at the beginning. Point 1....ECU. Not stock right? So....totally unlikely that anybody else's experience is likely to replicate whatever wiring f**kup was done that caused the HICAS to interfere with engine operation. Point 2. What do you mean "I do not have the standard HICAS CU"? If you have no HICAS CU, then how can you expect anything other than trouble with your HICAS? I mean - at least you'd hope the electric rear rack would lock up, but it could be quite weird. And the HICAS light shouldn't come on if there's no CU to make it come on....so what is that dashlight wired up to? And how is it that your power steering is still working if you have removed the HICAS CU?

It might seem like it does, but it actually doesn't - by a long way. The beauty of compressor based phase change cooling/heating is that you leverage the mechanical/electrical power you put in, by a factor of (up to) about 5. Exact same as reverse cycle airconditioning for the house. When used as a heater, you put your 2kW worth of electrical power into it, and you get about 10kW worth of heating out of it. All courtesy of the remarkable ability of heat to want to flow downhill all the time.

So, for anecdotal value, street driven R32 with <200rwkW, stock rear brake equipment and R34 310mm fronts. Intima SR pads on the front. I think I'm also using SRs on the rear, but it possible that I chose SSs to hopefully provide a little less rear brake power. RDA slotted and grooved (the current design and spec that come with the black passivation coating) front and rear. More than adequate for the street, and really good in all respects. Not a lot of dust, no noise, great performance. I have nothing against DBA rotors, but they are more expensive than the RDAs and I'm a tightarse and the RDAs are proven to be fine. I used to use Bendix Ultimates as a street pad, which is really just a default choice. They're fine, nothing special at all, but the Intimas seem to be much much better. No discussion of chosen braking system elements is complete without a master cylinder stopper (or equivalent things done to mechanically firm the pedal) and braided teflon lines.

Standard torsional harmonics as per every straight 6. Toyota/Yamaha just do a much better job of other aspects of the fundamental engine balance and oil pump drive and harmonic balancer integration and so on than Nissan did. The RB is a bit of a grandfathers axe, having its roots back in the 60s.

As in, the engine builder needs to put the crack pipe down because the weight difference of the pins is 3/5ths of f**k all?

Maybe I should have used italics?

Yes. On my McLaren it's all carbon-carbon.

R32 ECUs have a switch/potentiometer accessible through a small hole in the side of the case that is used to trigger fault code display. How to use it is covered in the workshop manual. You basically have to just turn it all the way one way then all the way back, or something equally simple (and long forgotten, in my case, having replaced the whole thing with an R34 ECU).

Stock 25 Neo turbo. Was same when the previous engine was RB20 with stock turbo. All on stock manifolds. I have drilled the turbine housing(s) just downstream of the inlet flange. No beanie - just all stock heat shields. FWIW, I don't think the presence or absence of insulation on the outside will change the gas temperature to an extent that you could measure in that location anyway. Even if it changed it by 20°C, you see more variation than that just in normal usage anyway. You'd have to back to back it very carefully to be able to tell. If you are planning on measuring DS of the turbo, you will get different temperatures that I get at the inlet. The expansion of the gas across the turbine extracts energy, so you have lower P & T according to how much work is taken out. Plus heat losses off the turbine housing and dump, subject to my thoughts on that above.

Real EGTs will idle a lot lower than when at load. My turbine inlet runs up to ~900°C on a hot pull, below 700°C at idle.

I just have the pop tune. But if you space the pops closely enough together, you get a crackle effect.

Set it on fire. That's a hell of a problem. Set it on fire. Set it on fire.

I originally told him coca-cola. But he wouldn't believe me. It's a shame because I was interested to see the sticky but rust free boot floor.

I don't see any rust. And I've already told you - phosphoric acid.

Typical Daewoo stupidity.

So....there's your answer. But..... normally you do not do it this way. Normally the alarm has its own remote and the alarm has an output when you disarm it that signals the car's locking system to unlock. Not the other way around, like your alarm's instructions seem to indicate. Why not buy a UK suitable alarm and install that?

He told you to get a GTX3076. Your choice then is between a genuine Garret one (which is $$) or a knockoff, which is cheap, and cheerful enough for an old datto. He also told you that choosing the turbo is only one of many decisions you need to make. Fuel system, management, intercooling, gearbox strength, diff, brakes..... all of these things come before the actual power making device (when the car has none of them to start with).

Oh, the farts are still there. They go deep.

Noting that it is illegal to modify a number plate in any way, in all states of Oz. That means no bending the ends, or cutting them down. The only really legal way to do it is to space it out. Sad, but true. Unlikely to something the cops pick on on its own, but on a bad day, it adds to the suck.

Looks as good as any other 30 year old GTR seat.

Leave a photo of you holding a Glock on the driver's seat.

It's a better than even chance that someone has hamfisted it in the past and burnt tracks in the ECU. Open the ECU and look closely (magnifying glass) at whatever tracks you can see that run from the Consult related connector pins. There might be something visible. Of course, there might not. There's pull up resistors and other doohickies involved in those connections that can get trashed without showing much in the way of burn. The Consult related tracks could also conceivably have been damaged in an unrelated incident. It's not unknown for injector or ignition drivers to get destroyed, taking out tracks. It might have been repaired - but only repairing the things needed to make it run the engine. There's a million scenarios like that.

The car actually seems to be in unreasonably good condition. Must have been locked up in storage for a while.

Of course it's Barnaby Joyce. Let's see. Federal MP? Check. Minister of the Department of Infrastructure? Check.