GTSBoy

Balance almost certainly not important at that mass, diameter and location in the drivetrain. Balanced probably better, sure, but I'd be willing to bet the resulting vibrations from being left as is would be undetectable without reasonably precise gear. Once thing I don't love is the vert close proximity of 2 of the holes. Not a lot of meat there. I know the flange to flange contact is still mostly there, but there would be a reasonable section of the axle's flange that overlaps the really close stub flange's hole - right where you would want to be transferring load. Again, probably about as important as the balance issue, but it still irks me.

True. Could thus get away with removing somewhat less than I calculated above. But probably only in the order of half. Doesn't take much to crank the comp right up.

Correction, I buggered my arithmetic. It's actually ~1.7mm, averaged across the crown, to be removed.

Assuming that there's enough meat there to take away. There might be, or there might not. You need to get rid of about 10cc worth of material, which averages to ~1.15mm across the whole crown, although you'd probably need/want to take more away in some areas and less in others, wrt valve pockets, quench pads, etc etc.

Doesn't matter. I have one of the original quite small ones. The small friction cutting discs that fly to pieces and take out your eye work, as do the thicker fibre reinforced ones. The thinner grinding wheels work. Steel cutting burrs work. Any of the larger Dremels that take bigger discs/burrs are also good. A 4" angle grinder will do the job, if used very discretely. A reciprocating cutter can also work. I just use the word Dremel to indicate anything that can cut/remove metal at a smaller scale.

Well, it's f**ked, so you might as well just touch it up with the Dremel or a hacksaw to make it easier to release its grip.

That hasn't been true since the 90s. If anyone is still doing it it is because they are daft.

Material will not make any difference.

$17k AUD? Must be pretty rough. I wouldn't part with mine for less than about $40k these days. And that might be far less than some would be willing to pay if I demanded it.

Steel. Not cast.

You do not want to use 26 rods* and pistons. That is opening up a whole can of worms** that you do not want to open. The Neo combustion chambers are VERY SMALL compared to 26 (or vanilla 25) and so the Neo pistons have a different crown shape. You want Neo turbo pistons. *Interestingly....Neo turbo rods are 26 rods anyway. So, yes you can use the 26 rods, but you really don't want the pistons. ** Waaay too much compression.

And in the context of choosing an aftermarket manifold, when we say "cast"....we really mean "fabricated from cut up steam pipe bends".....yes?

Just Nistune the ECU first. Then replace turbos. Then connect laptop (and wideband) and drive it and make sure fuelling is good and timing is OK on the very first drive.

Again, I can't believe that these threads exist. Back in the 1930s, when someone wanted to find out if the valves on their DOHC Peugeot Grand Prix car would hit the pistons when they advanced the cam timing 3°, they would dummy assemble the engine and find out. Nothing has changed! Except the recipe book modifying scene.

I just love how everyone these days wants to know if the cupholder and glovebox are original spec. Back in my day, we just saw a car we liked and bought the bloody thing.

It's unlikely to be possible using the OG R32 speedo head. I don't imagine that there's a convenient cable drive available for that box. Given that the box's original speed sensor will be electronic, you're probably going to have to look to retroing an R33 or similar head behind the dash.

Not to mention that they're all the same car anyway. But yes. Exhausts are things that can be made, rather than things that must be bought.

Crop dust their neighbourhood with arsenic trioxide?

It's not just lines. It's plenum gasket, inlet manifold gasket, TB gaskets, etc. Whilst Joshua is correct that an internal vacuum leak is also possible, and an internal leak** could in fact result in the low idle ignition timing also, it won't cause the high fuel consumption. Well, it's even less likely to cause it than a normal vacuum leak from outside would, and even that doesn't seem like the normal result of a vac leak. ** What he really means is a dead or dirty/sticky IACV not being able to close enough to bring the idle down.

low idle timing indicates inability of the ECU to control the idle speed down with the IACV, so it is reducing timing to get the speed down. This implies a vacuum leak, which shouldn't cause high fuel consumption (should make it run lean, if anything) but maybe the closed loop O2 control is going overboard. Look for vac leaks with spray can of carby cleaner. Also ponder if the air filter is too dirty. You made no mention of looking at it. Also, if that's not the cause, ponder if the cat has collapsed.

My R32 is <<$1k with Shannons.

This. Proof of a transaction that they were standing right there whilst it happened is proof of a transfer that happened while they were standing there. Well, yes. Presuming that you have done your pre-work and know that there is no outstanding finance on the car, or if there is, that you know that it will be cleared after you pay and possession changes. And also presuming that it's not on a WOVR or wanted by the police for ram-raiding, etc etc. The rego transfer slip is filled out by the owner and handed to you, then you all go about your business. You go to the Bureau of Useless Kents and transfer rego to you.

What you talkin' about Willis? You can v. easily buy LHD Morimotos..... and there is nothing on the outer lens to change the cutoff/beam shape created by the projector and its internals.

I'm not only not on it, but I refuse to click any link that takes me there.

Well, that's good news. I suppose my absolute 100% ban on having anything to do with bookface makes it hard to find out about a lot of things these days.