GTSBoy

These threads always take a 90° turn before the end!

Yeah, but that's an R34 GTR right? ....where the % gap between buying via one pathway and the other is equivalent to many 10s of thousands of $$. And with R34 GTRs there is actually something available to buy in JP because 10 years newer + anticipated demand. Whereas..... an R32 sedan is something that would have been very very lucky to have escaped the crusher in JP if it hadn't already been sent overseas. And the difference in what it will cost you over there, plus shipping and related costs, cf what one costs here, is only maybe....$10-20k. That's not a lot of coin when taken in the same breath as the discussion on R34 GTRs, but really speaks to the value proposition. So I return to my point that it is all subject to the whole availability problem crossed over with the extra risk of buying more or less sight unseen from JP. All in all, it hardly seems worth it either way. I wouldn't be buying an R32 in the current (Oz) market, because the market prices don't reflect the actual value of the cars. Those Oz prices are reflective of other market prices too (like US) and that's driving JP pricing, because sellers will always charge what the market can bear. And what the market can bear out of JP is about 80-90% of what the market is asking locally (including the extra costs)....just so that it feels like you're getting it cheap. But you're still paying too much. Know what I mean?

The general rule is that you do not want to use a spring that is less than half the boost you want to bleed up to, and more spring is generally better than less. So for 20+ psi, you definitely want to be in the 14 psi spring range, rather than 10, and you definitely don't want to be using a 7.

Besides reducing compressor efficiency?

Where would they find one in Japan that wasn't either a basket case or also $30k?

Well, the seat rails are different, to the extent that you can't swap seats. But the floor mats don't really care about that small difference, and it's not actually under the mat - it's further back.

Yah, 'tis a dumb question. Will fit on the floor.

What does the absence of the intercooler have to do with it? Surely having nothing to fill that big space just makes it easier to fit. Instead of seeing an intercooler there, you will see your air-con condenser and whatever else is visible in that spot.

Nah.... buy a 65" TV from Kogan et al and shipping is only a small amount of money. Boxes the size of front guards are shipped around all the time. Even the bonnet might not be quite as bad as you expect. I mean.....if you (or say, I, because then there is defo shipping from Syd/Mel to me in SA) buy a JSAI bonnet from JustJap, or Seibon, the freight on that is unpleasant, but not excruciating - not compared to the cost of the bonnet, anyway. A box with a pair of seats from east coast to SA/WA is only a hundred bucks or so.

Yuh, but that gives him 11 days + 3 months. Although, summer in Canada is like, what? The 2nd week of August? So that actually gives him another couple of months. 😛

Listen to this man ^, and the man in the other thread, and also don't start multiple threads on the same website for the same question. Bee R's are dumb engine destroyers.

I understand that. But this guy has unplugged his switch (same as your bypass to get around the missing rubber!) and his lights stayed on.

Wouldn't have. They're not exactly weak things. Even going full travel and hitting the stop at some speed won't hurt them. It is far more likely that you have a simple plumbing problem. Take it back to basics, as advised above.

Leave it. Anything you weld there is going to be so dinky that it has a better chance of falling off at some point and killing the turbine than being useful. Because Nissan were using open turbine housings. There wasn't a lot of point in trying to have a perfect divider.

2nd handies can usually be found on eBay. Not interested in running the GKtechs?

Yes......but..... he disconnected the wiring to the switch and the lights stayed on. That's not correct. No wiring = no electrons bumbling along.

Whilst true.... Opening the circuit should kill the lights. This suggests a short. Which suggests that you should break out the multimeter and start fault finding.

BRO! ALL CAPS DAY!

Do you really want to wait until 6500 rpm for boost? Big turbo, small engine, no fun.

There's only dross like that left in Japan. That and cars that actually could pull $60k or more. This because.....drum roll.....it's 20 years since the R34 was new, 30 years since the R32 was new and the rest of the world has already raped and pillaged the available stock in Japan. You would seriously be better off looking to buy one from Australia or NZ, where a GTT might be listed on our carsales site for $40-60k (Oz) and might actually sell for 85-90% of asking price in the current market (or might actually sell for asking - what would I know? I'm not buying or selling at the moment.) Actually, I just realised that that advice was already given by Robbo above. His other advice is also valid. Going back 10 or more years, whenever a dreamer came on here wanting to buy a $10k R32 GTR.....we'd always tell them if you didn't have enough money to rebuild basically everything on it - the engine, transfer case, suspension, rust, etc etc, which would easily add up to multiples of the purchase price, then you would be mad to buy it, because it will break you. If you want buy this rusty shitbox from Japan and have dreams of turboing it, keep in mind that; A turbo RB20 has no torque until boost hits and then it has no traction. The little auto transmission won't hold up to serious power for long and will cost money* to beef up. That converting to a strong manual trans will cost money*. The the stock brakes are tiny and need upgrading. That the diff is open and needs to be replaced. and keep thinking of other things that need to be done, because there are quite a few of them. And where I say "money" above, I mean more thousands of $$ than you would expect. So, by the time you buy the rusty shitbox, pay to ship it and get whatever govco arse-rape tax etc dealt with, cleaning costs, asbestos certificates, etc etc, and then consider the costs to make it into the car you would like it to be (instead of the rusty shitbox that it currently is) you are going to be quite a few multiples of the balls deep that your current budget appears to extend to. And so we return to buying something known good from Oz/NZ or even pre-existing in the US. For a lot more money than where you think your are.

Well....unplugging the sensor isn't going to do anything. It's not like it's an active component. It's just a pipe. Have you considered unplugging one pump at a time? If you kill a pump while the noise is there and the noise dies immediately, you've probably found your villain. Beyond that, it is just diagnostics 101. Open the return pipework and have the fuel not go back to the tank. Drop it into an external bucket. See if it's singing as it goes through a piece of thread tape stretched across a fitting, or something equally stupid. It's always something stupid.

There are RWD engines for Skylines. If you're going to spend cubic dollars with going RWD, you'd be best off considering getting an RB30 built with the 26 head. That way you don't have to futz around with all the silliness of the front diff in the 26 sump. But then......why run a GTR as a RWD? Just start with a RWD Skyline?

Neos have N1 pumps from the factory. They also don't get any special treatment wrt the pump drive though, so the drive is just as troublesome as on any earlier RB without a proper drive. If you're going to thrash this engine, you should probably upgrade the drive. I wouldn't worry about the rod cap.

Nothing I said was wrong. What do you know about Neos?

All auto R chassis (and the crappy stag ones too) have rev limiters. Of course they have rev limiters. I can even show you the rev limiter in the factory ROMs if you really want.